Ohio History Journal

Brief Biography of William Henry Holmes  517

of powwow as we could, traded some matches for some

arrows and gave them bread to eat. It appears that they

were really trying to find their lariats and possibly to

claim them. We watched them so closely that they

failed to steal anything and we saw them depart at last

with feelings of relief. These fellows came more nearly

up to my notion of what bad Indians were than any

mortals I had heretofore seen.

We mounted double guard for the night, determined

to protect ourselves to the utmost. I think I recognized

two of the Indians as the same we met on the 25th of

July between the Mancos camp and La Plata mines.

That party of four had doubtless been following us

since that time and probably lay in wait until we got

out of the Southwest. They were cowardly scamps who

would not have dared harm us, if it had been likely to

endanger themselves. They knew that we slept and

worked by our needle-guns, and doubtless moved with

great caution in consequence.

 

FIRST ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY

CROSS

BY W. H. HOLMES, OF THE HAYDEN SURVEY OF THE

TERRITORIES, 1873

Until the middle of June, the great front range of

the Rocky Mountains in Colorado had been crowned

with an unbroken covering of snow, and the higher

peaks were forbidding enough to cool the ardor of the

most ambitious mountaineer. Our party spent a few

months on the plains and pine-covered foot-hills watch-

ing impatiently the faces of the mountains. We marked

how the snow line moved gradually upward, how the

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black rocks began to peep out, marking innumerable dark

patches, and how the snow finally occupied only small

areas where it filled depressions or had accumulated in

deep drifts. We were not slow in taking advantage of

this growing weakness in our enemy's front and steadily

advanced up the valleys, into the dense timber, up long,

steep slopes, through swamps and torrents and treach-

erous snow banks; and long before the grass and flowers

of these upper regions had felt the touch of spring, we

were there. And many days before winter had finally

surrendered the lofty summits from a peak more than

14,000 feet above the sea, we looked around upon one of

the grandest panoramas that the world affords. To the

east, the great plains gave a horizon entirely unbroken;

to the west, innumerable summits notched the sky like

saw teeth. From the ramparts of a continent we looked

out upon a boundless ocean; inward, upon a waste of

mountains whose heights and depths and mystery fairly

confounded us.

This was to be the field of our labors, and we set

about the task of identifying such great landmarks as

would be necessary to guide us in our future wander-

ings. An indefinite number of high, ragged ranges could

be traced by their lines of lofty summits as far away to

the north and south as the eye could reach. But one

among all these summits caught the eye and fixed the at-

tention. Far away to the westward, rose a lofty peak

that bore aloft upon its dark face a great white cross,

so perfect, so grand in proportions, that at a distance of

sixty miles, it was plainly seen even with the naked eye.

Two months later we found ourselves approaching

the region in which this mountain is located. On the 19th

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Brief Biography of William Henry Holmes  519

of August, we stood on the ocean divide, from which

the waters to the east are carried by the Arkansas down

to the Gulf, while those to the west sink away and are

lost in the mysterious gorges of the Grand Canyon of

the Colorado. On the one side a narrow valley stretched

away to the southeast in a seemingly endless vista, while

on the other, the streams and valleys are almost imme-

diately obscured by a mass of irregular mountains. The

course chosen would lead us, first, down the Pacific slope

into a deep and rugged canyon which we must descend

for 20 miles or more, thence by means of one of the

great creek valleys, that come down from the range to

the west, we hoped to be able to reach the base of the

peak.

For two days we pushed forward, sometimes in the

river bed, sometimes high up on the walls where our

trembling animals had to be led along the narrow ledges

and treacherous rock-slides. In places we would appear

to be completely shut in by walls so steep and high that

the nimble deer could hardly pass, where the river came

seething and boiling from some dark chasm utterly

blocked up by massive rock, and disappeared again in a

canyon which no man could penetrate and from which

came up constantly the smothered roar of torrents.

On the evening of the second day we reached the

mouth of a large creek which it was agreed must drain

the high regions about the Holy Cross. As yet no one

had caught sight of the object of our search since the

first discovery some sixty miles away, for since entering

the canyon no mountains had been in sight, only the

rocky walls, the densely timbered slopes and the narrow

streaks of sky above. In vain we searched for a trail

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or feasible route up this creek valley. It was found im-

passable and we essayed to climb the ridge to the right;

but night was upon us and camp must be made.

By noon the next day we were on the high ridge

north of the creek, free from the prison-like valley, but

not free. A broad freshly beaten game-trail led us on

charmingly for a while, but presently entered the timber

and we were plunged into a slough of despond. To the

right, to the left, and in front, the mountain face bristled

like a porcupine. Countless multitudes of giant pine-

trunks, uprooted by some fierce hurricane, were piled up

and crisscrossed and tangled in such a way that an army

must have been stopped as before the walls of an im-

pregnable fortress. Up and down, advancing and re-

treating, struggling through the most aggravating

mazes, but returning again to the starting point, we

worked on until horses and men were thoroughly tired

out. At night, after nine hours of unremitting exertion,

we pitched camp in a little swamp gulch among the

logs and rank weeds, only two and one-half miles in ad-

vance of the camp of the preceding night.

On the following morning we moved in another di-

rection and with much better success. By noon we

emerged from the timber and stood upon a high promon-

tory that overlooked a deep valley--a tributary of the

Grand Canyon of the Colorado. What a remarkable

sight! This valley, broad and deep and regular, looked

like a great pasture, dotted with a million white-backed

sheep. In ages past a mighty glacier, rivaling the mod-

ern ice rivers of the Alps, had swept down this valley

smoothing down its rugged sides and rounding and pol-

ishing the projecting masses of granite. So great was

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Brief Biography of William Henry Holmes  521

the resemblance of these rounded rocks to flocks of sheep

that we named it, after the manner of the French.

"Roches Moutonnees" Valley.

On the opposite side of this valley and somewhat

farther up, there stood a dark mountain that immedi-

ately attracted our attention, and seemed certainly to be

the object of our search. High and rugged and cold, its

scarred granite faces were tattooed by many ragged

seams and patches of snow. But there was no cross.

We looked in vain for forms that might even suggest a

cross; but neither on this mountain nor on any of those

that lay back of it, could the object of our search be

found.

But after all, this must be the peak, and the cross, if

it has not already melted away, will be found on one of

the other faces. It is at least our duty to see, and first

this great valley must be crossed. Two thousand feet of

weary zigzagging brought us to the creek bed. Turning

up this we picked our way among the rocks and fallen

trees until within about three miles of the mountain's

base. Here we found it necessary to halt, not only be-

cause our animals were utterly tired out, but because the

way was completely blocked. So camp was made on the

bank of the roaring creek, with no alternative for the

morrow but to advance afoot.

At night it rained in torrents, but we sat stoically

by the great campfire talking of the past day's work and

planning for the prospective ascent. It was decided that

one party, with the surveyor's instruments, should move

up the valley along the main creek until opposite the

northern spur of the peak and ascend from that direc-

tion. The photographic party would climb directly up

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the valley rim from camp so as to reach a long, high

ridge that hemmed in the peak on the east, and from

which it was thought a good view could be obtained of

the main eastern face and of the cross, if it still existed.

When it grew late we spread our blankets among the wet

logs and went to bed.

By sunrise all hands were stirring, and the start was

made with a dash, every man for himself and the best

man to the front. It was not long before the party was

pretty well scattered, but communication was kept up by

frequent shouts. The heavy instruments, which weighed

some forty pounds, had been carried a mile or more

ahead the evening before, so that we scaled the barriers

of rock and wood that lay in our way with unusual

rapidity, but when the rock on which the heavy instru-

ment-box had been cached was reached, a halt was called

and the announcement made that each man must take

his turn at the box and carry it a distance proportionate

to his strength.

Our party consisted of seven members. Only four

had come up, but we decided to move on. Dr. Hayden

was the first to take up the load. It was strapped to his

shoulders and he marched off with an ease and rapidity

that did great credit to his prowess as a mountaineer.

There could be no flagging now. The man who, com-

paratively unincumbered, could not keep pace with our

leader must certainly be in disgrace, and the scrambling

advance grew more lively than ever. Presently it began

to rain and the smooth rocks grew slippery and the grass

and bushes dripping wet. By the time we had reached

the point where the mountain rises abruptly from the

valley, we were soaked to the skin, but we pushed on.

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Brief Biography of William Henry Holmes  523

From this point the course was upward. Hour after

hour we toiled on; the box was shifted from one to

another and the carrier was constantly assisted where

the walls were steep. But the box grew heavier and

heavier as we advanced, and the changes more frequent.

At timber line all parties were glad to take a rest. We

were now in the midst of the rain clouds and the day

was so unpromising for mountain work that it seemed

useless to advance. A fire was built in the shelter of the

great pines and an attempt made to dry our clothes.

It was midday, and 3,000 vertical feet intervened

between us and the summit. It now became a serious

question as to what it was best to do. We had brought

only sandwiches for lunch, and had no blankets, not even

an overcoat to protect us during the night. We could

do nothing on the peak among the clouds and the idea of

returning to camp and making the entire ascent again

the following day could not be entertained for a moment.

It was finally decided to complete the ascent immediately

and trust to Providence to lift the shroud that enveloped

the mountains.

Meantime the photographic party, much more heavily

laden than ourselves, had encountered far greater diffi-

culties. Mr. Jackson and his two associates carried

among them upwards of one hundred pounds of appa-

ratus, but they were not men to yield before ordinary

difficulties. The rain, the greatest possible damper on a

photographer's enthusiasm, could not make them hesi-

tate; torrents and cliffs and dense forests and prowling

beasts were interposed in vain. They had set out to

accomplish an object, and success at whatever cost of

exertion and hardship must be attained. By the middle

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524     Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications of the day Mr. Jackson found himself far in advance of his companions, but in spite of his unusual enthusi- asm he began to fear for his results. Eight hours of weary climbing brought him nearly to the summit of the ridge. There was nothing to be seen but the dull, gray clouds which rose and fell and swept back and forth to sink down again oppressively around him. Was this

all labor in vain? Had the Fates conspired against him, and was the Holy Cross a myth, an illusion that had led him on through all these weary days, only to deceive him? He sat down among the rocks to rest and ponder. Meantime the winds rose and the dull mists were driven along the cliffs and torn to tatters on the sharp projec- tions. To the west great billowy passage-ways were opened, and glimpses of the lofty mountains were caught looking like ghosts through the thin mists. Suddenly the

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Brief Biography of William Henry Holmes  525

artist, glancing upward, beheld a vision exceedingly dra-

matic and beautiful. There, set in the dark rock-face

held high among the floating clouds, he beheld the long-

sought cross, perfect, spotless white, grand in propor-

tions and what was more astonishing, a great body of

snow, filling a deep, many-armed gorge, formed the

white figure of a woman in the attitude of worship, with

hands uplifted toward the cross, as shown in the photo-

graph. Recalling himself, he remembered his ambition to

transfix by his art, an image of this vision, to be carried

back to the world. He set his camera in haste, and in-

voked the aid of the fleeting sunlight. He turned for

his chemicals, but they were not there. They were far

down the mountain on the backs of weary men. In de-

spair he saw the clouds gather and settle down for the

night. At nearly the same hour our party stood on the

summit of the mountain itself and gathered snow from

the very top of the cross. We, too, saw the clouds break

and scatter and gazed with wonder upon the rolling sea

below, with its dark mountain islands, and crouched be-

hind the great rocks to avoid the cold winds that battle

so incessantly about those high summits.

The utter solitude and desolation of these summit

regions are never so deeply impressed upon one as when

the rest of the world is shut out thus by clouds, when

nothing of the solid earth greets the eye save the dull

granites and the frozen snows.

And, now, since no observations could be made, we

decided to descend to timber line, and spend the night.

We passed down the crest of the northern spur and

stopped near the edge of a great precipice to watch the

play of the storm-clouds below, and to pitch great rocks

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into the abyss 3,000 feet in depth. While here we were

favored by a most unusual scenic display. The sun at

our backs broke through the clouds, and there was im-

mediately projected, on the mists that filled the dark

gulf, a brilliant rainbow; not the arch, as usually seen,

but an entire circle, a spectral ring, which, as we gazed,

faded away, and in a minute was gone. Far beyond, on

the opposite side of this deep valley, we could see the

ridge occupied by the photographer, and, by using our

field glasses, the camera could be dimly seen standing on

the very highest point.

A shout from one of our party elicited a reply from

Mr. Jackson himself, that came back to us like the faint-

est echo, for the distance must have been more than

half a mile. It was interesting to note the effect of this

very meager communication upon the spirits of our

party. It was cheering to feel that we were not entirely

alone; the bond of sympathy with other beings of our

kind was not utterly sundered. Shouts were exchanged

frequently as we descended, and when we reached tim-

ber line and kindled our fire for the night, a companion

blaze twinkled like a star against the dark mountain op-

posite.

Later, the cheerful blaze of two immense fires lit up

the faces of surrounding objects far and near, and for

the time we forgot that we were supperless and bedless,

and that a hard day's work must follow an almost sleep-

less night. The rain had ceased and the night was not

as cold as had been expected, so that we talked and dozed

away the time without especial discomfort.

At daybreak we were up and moving, but found our-

selves stiff and weak, and the re-ascent was most tedious.

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Brief Biography of William Henry Holmes  527 Our shouts were not so frequent and strong as before, and the replies came back hesitatingly and late. But all turned out well. The scientific work was completed by noon and the photographs secured before that time. The descent was made in safety. On reach- ing the first creek-crossing we were overjoyed to meet the member of our party who had returned to camp the day before, with a basket of provisions and a pot of tea. At six in the evening both parties were in camp, and a bountiful supper was all the more enjoyed by being sea- soned with stories of adventure and success.

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