TOURS INTO KENTUCKY
AND THE NORTHWEST
TERRITORY.
Three Journals by the Rev. James Smith of
Powhatan County, Va.,
1783-1795-1797.
SKETCH OF REV. JAMES SMITH
BY JOSIAH MORROW, LEBANON, OHIO.
The writer of the following journals was
born in Powhatan
county, Virginia, September 17, 1757,
and died near Columbia,
in the Northwest Territory, July 28,
1800. He resided in his
native county nearly all his life, his
removal to the north side of
the Ohio having been made less than two
years before his death.
His paternal ancestors, it is believed,
came from England.
The first of them of whom we have any
account was his grand-
father, George Smith, of whom there is a
tradition that, when a
youth, he moved from the eastern coast
lands of the colony of
Virginia to the valley of the James
river, taking with him only
his buffalo robe, gun and tomahawk. He
was a hunter, but he
became a man of wealth and left to his
son, Thomas, a large
landed estate, situated in Powhatan and
Chesterfield counties,
a mile or two from the James river, and
about twenty miles above
Richmond.
Thomas Smith was also a wealthy man and
was able to leave
to each of his six children a good farm
and a number of slaves.
He was three times married and by each
marriage had one son
and one daughter. His third wife was
Mrs. Margaret Guerrant,
of Huguenot descent; her maiden name was
Trabue, and she
was the mother of James. Strangely as it
seems to us, the two
elder sons were each christened George,
and each had for his
middle name the maiden name of his
mother. The eldest was
George Rapin (or Rapeen); the second,
George Stovall. The
eldest, however, was familiarly known at
home as Mill-pond
George, from the mill-pond near his
birth place. In his first
(348)
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 349
journey into Kentucky, James Smith was
accompanied by his
half-brother, George R. and they visited
their half-brother,
George S. who had removed to Jessamine
county, Ky., about
1780. In his journals James designates
each half-brother simply
as 'Bro. George." George R., as
well as James, kept a journal of
his travels in the western country, but
it was unfortunately de-
stroyed in the burning of the home of
his son, Gen. George R.
Smith, founder of Sedalia, Mo.
The family of Thomas Smith were deeply
religious and
the three sons all became preachers. The
father had belonged
to the Church of England, but when the
Baptists first preached
in the neighborhood of their home, the
two elder sons were con-
verted to that faith and became Baptist
exhorters and preachers.
Later, when James was about ten years
old, Methodism was first
promulgated in Virginia and the Smith
family (except the two
Baptist sons) were among the first
fruits of the Wesleyan re-
formation in Virginia. The father passed
out of the established
church and became one of the people
called Methodists, and the
conference of 1780 was held at his
house.
James Smith became a preacher of
"The Republican Metho-
dist Church" organized in 1792 by James
O'Kelly, after his
unsuccessful attempt to limit the power
of the bishop in the
Methodist Episcopal Church. The
Republican Methodists num-
bered several thousand in Virginia and
North Carolina, but they
were absorbed into other movements,
especially into that called
"Christians." James Smith
seems never to have been a preacher
in the M. E. Church, but it is believed
by his descendants that in
his later years he contemplated uniting
with the larger body of
Methodists and that this was not done on
account of his early
death. His journal shows that in his
last years he was intimately
associated and maintained the most
friendly relations with the
pioneer preachers of the M. E. Church on
both sides of the Ohio.
Unlike most of the early Methodist
preachers who were poor,
he was a man of means, and had the care
of a large plantation
and of negro servants, but he continued
until the last to preach
the gospel whenever the opportunity was
presented, whether in a
church, by the wayside in his journeys,
or at the cabin of the
settler.
350 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
The reader of the journals of this
Christian man will notice
that he had no scruples against
traveling on Sunday. Usually he
pursued his journey on Sunday as on
other days. He would
preach on Sunday when he had the
opportunity and continue
his journey after the sermon. On Sunday
morning he em-
barked on the Kanawha and the same day
left the boat with a
guide and visited the great curiosity of
the burning springs,
where he flashed gunpowder to ignite the
escaping gas. His
views on the proper observance of Sunday
were probably im-
bibed in early life when his parents
were members of the Epis-
copal church.
Though he inherited slaves and was
himself a slave holder
his soul was deeply stirred by the
injustice and cruelties which
he deemed inseparable from the
institution of slavery. He pro-
nounced slavery "the present
disgrace and the future scourge
of America." In all the writings of
American abolitionists of
the period preceding the civil war there
is to be found no ex-
pression of deeper detestation of negro
slavery than in the
journal of this Virginia slave holder.
His abhorrence of the
institution is fully expressed in his
reflections on crossing the
Ohio at the new town of Cincinnati and
landing in a territory
forever dedicated to freedom, written on
Sunday, November 15,
1795, six years before the birth of
Garrison and forty years
before Birney began to print The
Philanthropist at Cincinnati.
He freed his slaves before leaving
Virginia. His half-brother
who was his companion on two of his
tours also espoused the
anti-slavery cause in Kentucky and freed
the greater portion
of his slaves, numbering about forty,
before his death in 1820.
After his second tour north of the Ohio
he determined to
remove to that country and he purchased
of a neighbor a tract
in the Virginia Military District lying
on the east side of the
Little Miami and at the mouth of
Caesar's creek in what is now
Warren county. The tract was surveyed to
contain 1,6662/3 acres
but was found to contain 2,000. He then
bade a final adieu
to the home of his ancestors and started
with his family for the
land of freedom. He was accompanied by
his brother-in-law,
Philip Gatch, and his family. Gatch, who
was also a Methodist
preacher and a strong opponent of
slavery, became a member
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 351
of the first constitutional convention
of Ohio and an associate
judge of Clermont county. He, as well as
Smith, emancipated his
slaves before leaving Virginia. Two of
Smith's former slaves
accompanied him to Ohio, one of whom,
"Uncle Ned," became
the owner of a farm of 200 acres in Warren
county on which he
lived to a good old age.
The emigrants started for the west about
September 26,
1798
and the journey was by the Kanawha route. To reach the
Kanawha wagons were used, the women and
younger children
riding in what was called the
"stage wagon." When the top
of a mountain was reached a large
sapling was cut and at-
tached to the wagon, and dragging
behind, it operated as a
break in the descent. Ned, the freed
negro, was the driver of
one of the wagons.
The Kanawha was reached near Gauley
mountain and the
emigrants embarked in flat boats. On
reaching the Ohio at
Point Pleasant four of the men left the
boats and taking the
horses came down the Ohio by land. The
boats were delayed by
low water and did not reach Columbia
until November 7, the
journey from Powhatan county occuping
six weeks.
The land on the Little Miami Mr. Smith
had purchased was
an uncleared wilderness and he took up
his temporary abode on
a farm not far from Columbia. He did not
live to see his family
established on the land he had purchased
for a home. He died of
a fever in the summer of 1800 before he
had reached the age
of 43. He was about six feet in height
and of slender build.
No portrait of him is in existence.
In 1779 before he was quite twenty-two
James Smith mar-
ried Miss Elizabeth Porter, who was then
but little past sixteen.
To them were born nine children, who,
named in the order of
their birth, were: Sarah (Mrs. Ichabod
B. Halsey), Thomas,
John
W., Elizabeth (Mrs. Burwell
Goode), Magdalene
(Mrs. Robert Sale), Martha (Mrs. William
O'Neall), Judith
(Mrs. Hiram Browne), Cynthia (died
unmarried), and George J.
The last named was the only child born
on the north side of the
Ohio. He became a distinguished lawyer
at Lebanon, was
speaker of the Ohio Senate and for
seventeen years judge of
the court of common pleas.
352 Ohio Arch. and Hist.
Society Publications.
The widow and children of James Smith
resided on the land
at the mouth of Caesar's creek and
several of the children and
their descendants have had their homes
in Warren county. Among
the grandsons, of James Smith were Hon.
John Quincy Smith,
of Clinton county; Judge James M. Smith
of Lebanon; Judge
James S. Halsey and Judge James S.
Goode, of Springfield;
J. Kelley O'Neall, of Lebanon, and
Ignatius Brown, of Indianap-
olis.
James Smith kept journals on his western
tours in which he
wrote down from day to day incidents of
travel, descriptions of
the country and of curiosities, and at
times his reflections. The
three original manuscripts have been
kept together and care-
fully preserved by his descendants and
they furnish evidence
that the traveler was not only a close
observer but a good pen-
man. Two or three copies of the journals
have been taken,
one of which was carefully made in the
law office of his grand-
sons, J. M. and J. E. Smith at Lebanon
in 1877, when only a few
words of the originals had become
illegible. The first publica-
tion of the journals is now made from
this copy. While collect-
ing materials for "The Winning of
the West," Theodore Roose-
velt found a manuscript copy of the
journals in Col. Durrett's
famous historical library of Louisville,
"the most complete in the
world on all subjects connected with
Kentucky history," and
in footnotes to his valuable historical
work, Mr. Roosevelt makes
several references to these manuscripts
and also mentions them
in his preface.
I.
JOURNEY FROM POWHATAN COUNTY, VIRGINIA,
TO KENTUCKY-
1783.
[The year in which this journey was made
is not known with
certainty. The traveler, while carefully
recording the day of
the week and of the month each day of
his journey, neglected
to put down the year in any place. The
copy of the journal in
the possession of the Smith family at
Lebanon, which was made
under the direction of the late Judge James
M. Smith, has "About
1785" written in an upper corner of
the first page. On the last
page of the original manuscript of this
journal there is written
in the handwriting of the traveler,
"J. Smith, April 1786, Pow-
hatan, Virginia"; this is believed
to give the time when the
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 353
traveler wrote out a fair copy of his
journal from the original
notes. As the journey had been commenced
on Wednesday, Oc-
tober 1st and concluded, December 21st,
it was assumed that it
was probably made the preceding year,
that is, 1785. While hav-
ing a transcript made for the Ohio
Archaeological and Historical
Society I found that the days of the
week set opposite the days
of the month are not those of 1785, but
are those of the years
1783, 1788 and 1794. As the tour seems
almost certainly to have
been made previous to 1786, I have given
1783 as the year of the
journey, and this date has the approval
of Mr. John E. Smith,
of Lebanon. James Smith in 1783 was
twenty-six years old.]-
J. M.
Having long had the desire to see that
famed western country, to wit
Kentucky, and conscious to myself that I
should never rest well satisfied
till I did see it, occasioned me to fix
a determination if God should spare
me to travel to that far distant
territory, fully to satisfy my restless
curiosity and also to enable me the more
effectually to determine con-
cerning my future proceedings. - The
time having at length arrived when
we had appointed to start (Bro. George and
myself) I accordingly fixed
and left home about 3 o'clock in the
afternoon on Wednesday the 1st
day of October. I came to Bro. George's
that night in order to start from
there in the morning.
Thursday 2nd. Bro. George and myself set
out about 11 o'clock; we
rode on slowly and reached Bro. Peter
Guerrant's about 10 at night.
Fri. 3rd. We started about 12 from Bro.
Peter Guerrant's and
arrived at Bro. R Moseley's about
sunset.
Sat. 4th. We lay by, and Bro. George
having an appointment,
preached accordingly to a small tho well
behaved congregation. After
meeting we fixed such of our things as
were out of order that nothing
might prevent our early starting in the
morning.
Sun. 5th. We started from Robert
Moseley's and came to Main-
yard's church; here also Bro. George had
appointed to preach, which
he did, but the auditory (tho small)
behaved extremely bad so that the
preaching seemed to have but little
effect. -After preaching we rode on
for 8 miles to Wm. Bradley's in the
upper end of Buckingham, who
insisted on Bro. George's preaching
again in the evening which he
complied with. I was surprized to see so
many people collect with so
short notice, the greater part of whom
seemed to possess the inestimable
treasure of God's love, tho as to the
riches of this world their part
appeared to be very small.
Mon. 6th. We set out about 8 o'clock;
here we were overtaken by
John Moss so that we were now (including
Manuel) four in number.
We reached Mr. Stovall's about 12 where
we got some refreshment
both for ourselves and horses and
afterwards rode on to Stephen
Sorrow's.
Vol. XVI.-23.
354 Ohio Arch. and
Hist. Society Publications.
THE PEAKS AT NEW LONDON.
Tues. 7th. We started from Stephen
Sorrow's pretty early and about
10 o'clock passed thro New London. This
town's situation is high, from
hence a most beautiful view of those
remarkable mountains called the
Peaks presents itself to the curious
beholder; from hence also the cloud-
capped summits of the lofty ridge
extending itself in a continued chain
from south to north renders the
curiosity still more agreeable and delight-
ful. We pushed on and took up camp in
the woods near the head of
them. About 10 o'clock at night it began
to rain and continued raining
all night attended with dreadful hard
wind which occasioned us a very
disagreeable night's lodging.
Wed. 8th. The wind ceased a little in
the morning and we set for-
ward. But before we had rode far the
dreadfullest storm came on that
I ever rode thro in my life; the amazing
quantity of trees that were
continually falling around us rendered
our riding extremely dangerous.
We were at length constrained to call at
a house where we tarried till
the wind ceased when we then again set
forward, but we had not gone
far before the wind arose again which
was the occasion of our having
a very unpleasant ride. But at length we
safely arrived at a house on
Glade creek where we stayed the night.
THE BIG LICK - A BOILING SPRING.
Thurs. 9th. The wind having ceased, the
weather became clear and
calm when we again started from our
lodgings and soon after passed
the Big Lick (so called). Tho its
present situation appears to have more
resemblance of a pond than a Lick being
fed by the brackish waters
causing it to be a continual pond both
summer and winter which I
suppose was the cause of so great a
resort of cattle in former times.
For, if a person may be allowed to judge
from the appearance of this
place, he must allow that many thousand
ton of earth have been carried
from hence by wild creatures before the
settlement of the country, it
being considerable lower than the common
surface of the earth and the
water in many parts of a considerable
depth. Its extent I suppose is
above a quarter of a mile in length and
half that distance in width.
It is fabled of this place that it had
the property of infecting those
that are much about it with the ague,
for which cause strangers are
not desirous of making any tarry (or as
little as possible) about the
place.
We rode on about 15 miles forward and
another curiosity presented
itself to our view. In the low grounds
near the head of the Roanoak
river we came to a large creek to
appearance (tho nothing but a spring
branch) in riding up which about 300
yards we came to the head,
which is no other than a perfect boiling
spring arising out of a flat
part of the earth, and as clear as
crystal (it being of the limestone
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 355
kind) which I fully believe affords
water more than sufficient for a
large merchant mill. We rode on about 3
miles farther and took up
camp in the woods near the head of
Roanoak.
Fri. 10th. We started early and soon
came to the spring head of
Roanoak river. We then ascended the
Allegenia mountain and after
passing this huge chain of inaccessible
mountains bid adieu to all the
eastern waters. We rode on thro a barren
and broken country and
arrived at New River in the afternoon.
This river is about 300 yards
over, as we were informed, and is
exceeding furious and rapid; there
is at this crossing both a ferry and
ford, but the water being fuller
than usual rendered it very deep fording,
however we being unacquainted
with the depth of the water put in to
ford it, but the water being both
very deep and strong we were
apprehensive we had not hit the ford
and so turned about and went in at
another place, but to no better
purpose for the water was nearly up to
the saddle skirts the greater
part of the way. But we pushed forward
and happily reached the
western shore thinking ourselves well
off with only wet legs and feet.
We rode about 3 miles forward and took
up at Coles Tavern.
Sat. 11th. We rode about 35 miles and
took up in the evening at
Thompson's Tavern.
Sun. 12th. We rode thro the upper end of
both Montgomery and
Washington counties and in traveling
down Holstein passed thro some
tolerable good land. We took up in the
evening at a Mr. Fendley's,
who used us extremely well.
DANGER FROM INDIANS.
Mon. 13th. Mr. Fendley having just
returned from Kentucky, gave
us the following information. That some
Indian traders at the Chickey-
mogey nation had sent express to Col.
Martin, superintendent of Indian
affairs, residing at the long islands on
Holstein informing him that a
body of Indians in number about 150 had
started from the nation, and
it was conjectured that their
destination was either for the Kentucky
road or the Cumberland settlement. That
the like information had
been despatched to Col. Ben Logan at
Kentucky. In consequence of
which Col. Logan had ordered a body of
150 men to guard the road
as far as Cumberland mountain. Mr. Fendley
informed us further
that a considerable number of horses had
been stolen on the Kentucky
road and that one company just before
the one he came with had lost
-
and several other companies had lost horses likewise.
On receiving the above information we
judged it advisable to collect
as large a company as we could and
accordingly appointed the Thursday
following to rendezvous at the
Block-house; by which time we judged
a considerable body would be collected
together. We then started from
Mr. Findley's and took up at Tho.
Caldwell's about a mile beyond
Washington Court-House.
356 Ohio Arch. and
Hist. Society Publications.
Tues. 14th. We started late, traveling
slow and took up the night
with Messrs. Fowler and Bray where they
had lay encamped about 3
weeks waiting for the rest of their
company.
Wed. 15th. We lay by all day in order to
rest our horses and
provide ourselves with necessaries to
carry us thro the wilderness and
accordingly got about 30 lb. of flour,
1-2 bushel corn-meal, 3 bushels
of oats, and having provided ourselves
thus determined to start early
in the morning for the Block-house.
Thurs. 16th. We started pretty early and
arrived at the Block-house
about 1 or 2 o'clock, but we found
ourselves altogether disappointed
as to finding company for not a man was
there traveling to Kentucky,
neither could we hear of any that were
before. However we pushed
forward and in the evening overtook Mr.
S. Taylor with whom we
encamped about 4 miles above Mockerson
Gap.
CLEAR WATERS OF THE CLINCH - POWELL'S
MOUNTAIN.
Fri. 17th. Thro neglect having omitted
stretching our tent and
having made our fire in an open place,
when we arose in the morning
our bed covering was as wet with the dew
as if a small shower of rain
had fallen on it. My head seemed much
clogged up but as yet I felt
no other bad effect. We fixed off
towards Clinch and rode up the same
about 2 miles. The water of this river
is the clearest that I ever saw;
in riding along up the river we could
with perfect plainness see fish
which I suppose were several feet under
water, and the obttom, which
I suppose was 8 or 10 feet deep, was
plain to be seen. We traveled on
in an exceeding bad road and about 1
o'clock we made a stop to let
our horses feed. I then turned out a
hunting and ascended a very
high mountain which fatigued me very
much. On my return I was
immediately taken unwell with a fever
which increased all the afternoon.
Nevertheless I pursued my journey and
about the middle of the afternoon
crossed Powell's mountain which is the
worst both for length and steep-
ness that we have hitherto passed. After
passing this 6 or 7 miles we
were again obstructed in our passage by
another lesser mountain. Tho
exceeding steep and rocky we without
much difficulty ascended. But
the descent being much steeper than the
ascent and likewise much
rockier, night having overtaken us and
it being very dark, we were in the
utmost danger of being dashed to pieces.
But at length [made] a very
dangerous and disagreeable passage in
safety. We arrived at the foot
of the mountain where we encamped. We
had not been long lay down
before it began to rain and continued
raining the greater part of the
night.
Sat. 18th. was a close, foggy, drizzley
morning; however we started
and in a little time arrived at the
Valley Station; we there made a halt
hoping the weather would break; here we
also refreshed ourselves and
horses, but seeing no likelyhood of the
weather breaking we again set
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 357
forward in order to overtake the company
before. We had not been
long set out before it set in raining
very hard which continued the
greater part of the day. Nevertheless we
pushed on and overtook the
company about an hour by sun at night.
But riding thro the rain threw
me again into a fever with which I was
very sick all night.
SICK IN THE WILDERNESS.
Sun. 19th. was still cloudy and raw, and
I was also still very unwell
after one of the most disagreeable
night's lodging that I ever had in
my life, for the ground being wet, all
our bedding wet, the wind all
night blowing exceeding hard and either
rain or snow frequently beating
in upon us was the cause of my being
seized with a shivering ague, which
continued till the middle of the day. I
then laid down on the ground and
covered myself thick with clothes (the
company having stopped to
feed their horses). But a severe fever
coming on caused me to throw
off the clothes, but the fever still
rising soon rendered it difficult for
me either to go or stand upon my feet.
The time was now come when
I was to see trouble, for being taken so
violent I had little expectation
of ever surviving it, even were I at
home where I might lie at ease upon
my bed with proper attendance. But here
I was in a wild uninhabited part
of the world having nearly 150 miles to
travel without any proper nourish-
ment, under an absolute necessity of
traveling and without so much as
an acquaintance except my brother and 2
or 3 others (whom I but
barely knew by sight) from whom I could
reasonably expect anything
of consequence in my situation. Under
these circumstances I was at
an entire loss what to do, whether it
would be best either to go back
or forward; my brother's advice was that
I should return to the valley
with Manuel and stay there till an
alteration either for the better or
worse, which notwithstanding the
distressing thought of being in a
distant country from home among a people
of bad character and entirely
destitute of friend or acquaintance, I
agreed to and was preparing to
return when I was persuaded by several
of the company to try to go
forward, they promising me their
friendly assistance on the way. On
these conditions I again determined to
go forward as far as I could;
one of the company having sent me his
beast which went very well, we
again set forward with a determination
if possible to reach Parker's Spring
it being 12 miles; but of all the rides
that I ever had this was the worst.
I seemed to be in a kind of
insensibility and blindness. By which means
the way seemed to be exceeding long and
tedious, but at length we arrived
at the place appointed and took up camp.
CUMBERLAND GAP.
Mon. 20th. Soon after we left our
encampment we came in sight
of Cumberland Gap and about an hour
after passed thro the same.
This is a very noted place on account of
the great number of people
358 Ohio
Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
who have here unfortunately fallen a
prey to savage cruelty or barbarity.
The mountain in the gap is neither very
steep nor high, but the almost
inaccessible cliffs on either side the
road render it a place peculiar
for doing mischief. However we passed it
without molestation, or seeing
any sign of Indians, except one
mockerson track. We had not passed
the gap far before I was again taken
with an exceeding hard ague,
which on its going off was succeeded by
as hard a fever, nevertheless
I was obliged to travel, and with
extreme weakness and fatigue reached
the appointed encampment about 66 miles
beyond Cumberland Ford.
Tues. 21st. We rode thro a barren and
exceeding badly watered
country; about 10 o'clock my ague again
came on and it was with
great difficulty that I sat upon my
beast. But I still was able to keep
on with the company tho many times
thinking I should not be able to
proceed. This day we pushed hard,
traveled late and took up camp
near Raccoon Spring.
Wed. 22nd. The weather having changed
from fine, fair and warm
to cloudy, rainy and raw, rendered it
disagreeable traveling and my
ague at the usual time of day coming on
weakened me very fast, but
I still made out to travel. We took up
in the evening at Rock Castle.
Thurs. 23rd. We fixed off, traveled hard
and in the evening after
a fatiguing journey accompanied with
distress and disappointment we
arrived at Englishe's Station, the first
in the Kentucky settlement.
Fri. 24th. After getting breakfast at
Englishe's we started for Bro.
George's but before we arrived there I
was seized with my ague again.
We then called at Capt. Kincaid's where
we tarried till toward the
evening. We then set forward again and
arrived at Bro. George's about
sunset or a little after. We had the
satisfaction of finding him and all
his family in health and enjoying the
happiness of being in a safe part
of the country and having plenty of what
is necessary for the support
of nature.
From this time till Friday the 21st. of
November I was confined
almost entirely to the house and chiefly
to the bed, having an ague
every day and seldom if ever clear of a
fever. I during this time took
two vomits one of tartar, the other of
Indian phisick, neither of which
worked me properly. I also took a large
quantity of other drugs and
medicines none of which had the effect
of removing my ague. I was
confident it was a foul stomach that was
the cause of all my disorders
and did not expect to be perfectly well
till I could get it cleansed. In
consequence of which I desired Bro.
George to get me a large dose of
tartar; he accordingly got me 5 grains
which I immediately took and
which worked me tolerable well. This phisick
I think by the blessing
of God was the means of carrying off the
ague and in a great measure
of dispeling my fevers. Nevertheless as
I had been sick so long I had
gotten so weak that I was still scarcely
able to stir out of the house.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 359
Sat. 22nd. November. I continued at my
brother's all day and don't
know that I felt anything of the ague
but still continued feverish.
Sun. 23rd. Bro. George having a meeting
3 or 4 miles from my
brother's I concluded to go with him
which I accordingly did and
think I felt better than I had done
since I was taken sick.
Mon. 24th. I continued at my brother's
all the day and still seemed
to mend.
Tues. 25th. I rode with Sister Frances
to one of the neighbors
and returned again in the afternoon
considerably recruited, tho still
exceeding weak.
DISAPPOINTED IN KENTUCKY LANDS.
Wed. 26th. Bro. George and myself set
off for Mr. Curd's about
16 miles from my brothers and although I
expected the ride would
fatigue me very much, when we arrived
there in the evening I found
myself nearly as well as when I set off.
In this ride I had the only
opportunity of seeing the country that I
have had since I arrived in
it. The richest land as to the soil is
nearly as I expected to find tho
not altogether so rich. My expectation
was to find richer land than
I ever saw, but was disappointed in my
judgment. Again, I expected
to find a level country but in this I
was also mistaken, the country I
think being rather hillier than in
Powhatan, besides a vast number of
sinkholes many of which contained an
acre of ground and the sides
being so steep as to render it
untillable. I also found myself wrong
in regard to the quality of land in
general, there being much more
poor land than I expected to have found,
and but a small proportion
of what is called the first rate. Bro.
George walked over to Mr. Ben
Bradshaw's, but I being too weak to walk
tarried at Mr. Curd's who
is the best fixed with necessaries of
any person I have seen in Ken-
tucky.
Thurs. 27th. We returned to Bro. Stokes'
as the day was cloudy
and raw and at times rained a little,
but we sustained no damage.
Fri. 28th. was close, cloudy and snowy,
besides a good deal which
had fallen in the night, which prevented
my turning out.
Sat. 29th. was a fine, fair and warm day
which soon melted off
the snow. We then fixed up and started
for the Manakin town, but
the coldness of the season, the length
and dangerousness of the way
and particularly the exceeding weak
state of health that I was in for
executing such a journey, with the
hardships to which I must unavoid-
ably be exposed, rendered the thoughts
of it somewhat disagreeable.
But the great desire and fervent
longings that I had to once more
see my native country enabled me to
surmount all difficulties, and we
accordingly set off and took up at Capt.
Owsley's about 8 miles from
Bro. George's. Here we got our horses
all shoed besides providing
ourselves with some necessaries,
determining to start the next day for
the Crab Orchard.
360 Ohio Arch. and
Hist. Society Publications.
Sun. 30th. We were somewhat surprised
when we arose in the
morning to find it snowing very fast,
the evening before having been
very warm, fair and pleasant. It
continued snowing till about 12 or 1
o'clock by which time it was an ankle
deep or more, which prevented
our going to the Crab Orchard. It ceased
snowing about 1 o'clock but
continued cloudy and raw all the
remainder of the day.
Mon. Dec. 1st. After having fixed up our
luggage and taken break-
fast we started from Capt. Owsley's, but
being detained longer than
we expected made it near 12 o'clock
before we arrived at the Crab
Orchard. When we arrived we were
informed the company had been
gone from there about an hour. We were
then obliged to push hard
to overtake them, but being much plagued
with our packs, and being
also obliged to call at English's
prevented our overtaking them till they
encamped. I was enabled this day to ride
thro the snow and frequently
obliged to get down to alter our pack
without feeling any perceivable
damage; we traveled about 22 miles and
took with the rest of the
company on Scagg's creek.
HORSES STRAYED.
Tues. 2nd. We left our encampment just
as it was well light and
traveled pretty fast. About 12 o'clock
it clouded up and began to rain
and continued to rain all day; we
traveled till near dark and then
took up on Raccoon creek. But riding
thro the rain with the fatigue
of traveling about 30 miles threw me
into a smart fever. Bro. George
also having took a great cold was
likewise very unwell. As soon as
we arrived at the encamping ground we
immediately turned our horses
loose into the cane, thinking before we
lay down to confine them, but
we were both so unwell that we were
scarcely able to move from camp
so that they remained loose all night.
After a very wet night and
bad lodging we were blessed with the
light of
Wed. 3rd. but to our no small
disappointment our horses were not
to be found. Bro. George made what
search he could till towards 8
or 9 o'clock without success and then
offered a reward of 10 dollars
to any person that would bring them. But
in vain, for after searching
till sometime in the afternoon we were
under the disagreeable necessity
of returning to Kentucky. This was truly
a wretched shift but never-
theless it was the best we could make
and notwithstanding our case
was bad yet we had great reason to be
thankful that it was no worse.
For first, we had one horse left, which
I had luckily tied up over night;
secondly a company of our old
acquaintance coming by mere accident
to our camp about 10 at night, who
(happy for us) were detained in
the morning as well as we; and when we
were driven to the necessity
of returning assisted us on our way
back; and thirdly when we arrived
at Kentucky we had the good fortune to
find our horses, who had got
there about 2 hours before us, so that
we came off much better than
we could reasonably have expected.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 361
Thurs. 4th. The weather was still
cloudy, cold and raw, but we
pursued our journey. But I think I
suffered the most cold that I almost
ever did in one day in my life; for I
was so weak that I was unable
to walk which was the only expedient we
could have recourse to to
warm ourselves when cold. Having made it
rather late in starting from
our encampment (which was on Rock
Castle) we did not arrive at Ken-
tucky till about 9 o'clock at night.
ARRIVE AT THE KENTUCKY RIVER.
Fri. 5th. was cold and blustering which
brought on a heavy shower
of snow which was soon over and then it
cleared away. Bro. George
and myself having taken a walk down to the
river to wash ourselves
saw the greatest curiosity I ever saw in
Kentucky. Which is as follows:
On the river bank lie several large
rocks the gritt of which as well as
I recollect is much like grindstone
gritt; within these rocks there are
innumerable appearances of some kind of
shells which are turned into
solid stone, the greater part of which a
good deal resemble buck's horns.
What was the cause of this strange
phenomenon of nature I am at a
loss to determine, nevertheless I must
think that these stones were
once covered with water, and that these
appearances were once perfect
shells. Otherwise I can form no idea how
they should come there.
But of this enough.--Having parted with
our provisions both for our-
selves and horses we were obliged to
provide more, having determined
to start with the company that were
coming from Crab Orchard. We
accordingly got enough to carry us thro
the wilderness and with it
once more started for home. But the
company having got the start
of us thro our being unavoidably
detained in providing our provisions,
we were again obliged to travel by
ourselves till late in the night,
when we at last overtook them at their
encampment near the mouth
of Scragg's creek.
Sat. 6th. We started pretty early,
travelled slowly and encamped
in the evening on Fraser's creek. We
were in number about 35 men
and there being a good deal of danger of
Indians, caused us to be
much on our guard. Wherefore it was
thought proper to place out 4
centinels one on each quarter of the
encampment, which after a list
was obtained for the purpose were
accordingly ordered to their several
posts.
INDIAN BARBARITY.
Sun. 7th. We fixed up and started from
our encampment as soon
as it was well light. Soon after our
setting out we were struck with
horror at the sight of the fresh grave
of the unfortunate Fielding,
who had fallen a prey to the savage
barbarity of a merciless, cruel
and bloodthirsty enemy; who after it was
his fatal misfortune to have
his thigh bone shattered to pieces was
inhumanly butchered and bruised
and at length scalped to complete the
horror of that mournful scene.
362 Ohio Arch. and
Hist. Society Publications.
Soon after we had passed this monument
of cruelty, our front were
alarmed at the fresh signs of horses
that had come up to the road
on a high hill, which was doubtless a
party of savages, who had come
hither to learn if there had any company
just passed. Nevertheless
we pursued our journey without any
interruption. We travelled on
till night when we came to the place
where poor Fielding and his com-
panions received their mortal wounds;
the company who survived the
shocking massacre had built for their
preservation a kind of fort, into
which they repaired but unhappily their
cautious proceedings came too,
late for their unfortunate friends. We
proceeded a few miles farther
and took up camp.
DANGERS IN CUMBERLAND GAP.
Mon. 8th. Having determined if possible
this day to get into
Powell's valley we started about 2 hours
before day. When the day-
light came on the front were again
alarmed by a mockerson track, which
appeared not to have been gone an hour.
On seeing this repeated sign
of Indians, a council was held wherein
it was decreed that the gun
men should divide, some in front and
some in the rear in case the rear
should be attacked. In this position we
marched until we passed Cum-
berland river. When we arrived at the
foot of Cumberland mountain
we were again halted and the whole of
the guns (being about 12 or
15 in number excepting pistols) were put
in front; thus we marched
uninterrupted thro the gap. But 2 men,
one of whom had a foundered
and the other a tired horse, being quite
out of sight of the rest of
the company behind, when they had a
little passed the top of the
mountain one of them chancing to cast
his eye some distance to the
left hand was suddenly startled by the
sight of 6 Indians running
with their guns in their hands as tho
they meant to head the body
of the company by taking advantage of a
crooked part of the road.
They immediately set up a continued cry
for assistance, which being
heard and answered by those before, made
the very mountain seem to
be alive with people. But when the
company collected again on the top
of the mountain no Indian was to be
seen. A council was then again
held, when Col. Martin gave it as his
opinion that we should certainly
be attacked some time in the night by
those Indians. Whereupon the
guns were again divided, some in the
front and some in the rear. We
then marched on in close and good order
in a single Indian file; we
marched thus about 5 miles and then
stopped, fed our horses and
determined to travel the greater part of
the night. As soon as our
horses were done eating we set forward
again it being at this time
about 2 hours in the night; after
traveling about 6 miles farther we
came to the encampment of a company
bound for Kentucky with whom
we encamped all night.
Tues. 9th. Hoping we were now out of
danger, several of the
company talked of not starting till
towards 8 or 9 o'clock, but my brother
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 363
and me with a few others pushed on with
an intention to get to the
Valley Station. We travelled on till
towards the middle of the day,
when all except my brother and me
stopped to let their horses eat
cane. We pushed along, thinking to go
somewhat farther and wait
for them while our horses should feed,
but seeing no convenient place
we kept on, when as our pack horses were
going along before and com-
ing to the brow of an hill suddenly
started back and came meeting us;
my brother immediately dismounted and
bore off to the left hand and
I bore off to the right. We could make
no discoveries of anything,
but this so alarmed us that we were not
at ease all the day after; we
saw also several mockerson tracks along
the road which still tended
to increase our fears. But safely and
undisturbed we arrived at the
Valley Station about 10 o'clock at
night.
Wed. 10th. Being now got quite beyond
danger we did not start
so soon as usual so that all our company
came up again and we all set
off together about 11 o'clock from the
Valley Station and took up camp
at night on Clinch river.
Thurs. 11th. We started pretty early and
arrived at the Blockhouse
about 1 o'clock, so that we have been
but 6 days since we started from
Englishe's. We fed our horses at the
Blockhouse and then rode on to
Campbell's.
Fri. 12th. We fixed and started about an
hour before day, but
the morning being wet and raining we
went about 6 miles and took up
again till it ceased raining and then
pushed on to about 3 or 4 miles
this side of Washington Courthouse.
Sat. 13th. We started about break of
day, travelled pretty hard
and encamped in the woods near the head
of Holstein.
Sun. 14th. We started early and took up
camp in the woods, oppo-
site the Peak mountains.
Mon. 15th. We set out some time before
day; about 9 o'clock
crossed N. River and about 5 in the
afternoon crossed the stupendous
Allegenia ridge and took up camp in the
woods near the Big Spring.
Tues. 16th. We started an hour or 2
before day, travelled fast and
took up at night about 40 miles from our
encampment.
Wed. 17th. The morning being wet and
raining we did not start
until after breakfast. However we
reached Mr. J. Chastain's a little
after sunset.
Thurs. 18th. was a very bad snowy day,
nevertheless we rode from
Mr. Chastain's to Mr. Stovall's it being
near 40 miles.
Fri. 19th. We started from Mr. Stovall's
after breakfast and arrived
at R. Moseley's about daylight down.
Sat. 20th. Started from R. Moseley's and
took up at Neil Thomp-
son's in Cumberland.
Sun. 21st. About daylight down arrived
safe at home; having been
mercifully preserved and kept thro
innumerable hardships, dangers and
364 Ohio Arch. and
Hist. Society Publications.
difficulties, for which may the Power
that kept me have unremitted
praise.
II.
JOURNEY THROUGH KENTUCKY AND INTO THE
NORTHWEST TERRITORY.
1795.
A variety of consideration have for some
time led me to think, that
the peace and tranquility of my native
country, stood on a very pre-
carious footing. The pride and
profaneness that is everywhere discov-
erable among all ranks of people, the
great decay of true and vital
religion among all orders of professors,
the disordered state of public
affairs, the fatal tendency of that
policy which tolerates slavery and
oppression in a free republican
government, and above all a full con-
viction of the truth of that remarkable
saying "The measure ye mete
shall be measured to you again,"
are considerations that have made me
to cry out with the prophet, "O
that I had in the wilderness a lodging
place, that I might rest in the day of
trouble, when the Lord cometh
up to invade the people with his
troops." I therefore determined if
God spare my life, to visit the western
country, if haply I might find
a place answerable to my wishes. I
therefore left home on Sunday the
4th day of October, 1795, proceeded to
Peter Sublett's and preached my
farewell discourse from 2 Corinthians
13-11, to a number of attentive
hearers, ready to depart on the morrow
on my intended journey.
Mon. 5th. After taking leave of my near
and dear connections, my-
self and Thomas Porter set out about 9
o'clock, but having occasion
to call at several places it was sunset
when we reached Thompson's
tavern. Here we stopped, fed our horses
and again set forward; day-
light now forsook us; the lowering
clouds portended a storm and the
winds already roared at a distance. The
lightning blazed around us and
the thunder rolled over our heads. The
rain came on with impetuosity
and the rushing wind passed by with its
frightful roar. In consequence
of the uncommon darkness of the night we
got bewildered and took a
wrong road. We knew nothing of our
mistake till we heard the sound of
the water, tumbling over a mill dam on
Appamatox river. We very for-
tunately however got back into the right
road and wet and weary enough
reached Wm. Maxey's about 11 o'clock in
the night.
Tues. 6th. We left Bro. Maxey's about 12
o'clock and reached Philip
Gatch's about 3.
Wed. 7th. Thomas Porter, Philip Rowzie,
Samuel Mansfield and
myself started from Bro. Gatch's about
10 and traveled through a bar-
ren and broken country. A few solitary
farms with a small cornfield
and cabin filled with tobacco, were the
objects that presented themselves
to our view. On the head of the
Appamatox river the scene was agree-
ably changed. Instead of fields overrun
with weeds, we find large and
Tours Into Kentucky and the
Northwest Territory. 365
beautiful farms, well cultivated and
beautiful fields of wheat. We took
up in the evening at Hunter's tavern.
Thurs. 8th. We set out early, traveled
slowly, took a wrong road,
passed Campbell Court House about 12
o'clock and reached Mr. Chastian's
about 9 at night.
ON THE TOP OF APPLE ORCHARD MOUNTAIN.
Fri. 9th. In order to give our horses a
little rest we concluded
to continue this day at Mr. Chastain's.
A son of Mr. Chastain offered
to conduct us to the top of a mountain
called the Apple Orchard. This
proposal we gladly accepted. We set off
from Mr. Chastain's about 8
o'clock and rode to the foot of the
mountain, where we arrived about 10.
We now left our horses and began to
climb the mountain. At about
12 we reached a kind of level, being now
as our pilots informed us,
about half way to the top. Here one of
our company got discouraged
and returned. The rest of us pursued our
intention of gaining the top,
which we were informed was yet four
miles distant. But not discouraged
at the distance or difficulties we met
with, we honestly exerted ourselves
and reached the most beautiful summit of
this lofty mountain about 2
o'clock. There is about two acres of
level ground on the top without
a tree, bush or shrub, so that we had a
full and extensive view of the
world beneath us. Here language is too
weak to convey a proper idea
of the beauty of the scene. We find
ourselves on the top of one of the
highest mountains in Virginia, if not in
North America. When we get
near the top the trees are low and
shrubby, having much the appearance
of an old apple orchard, whose limbs
have been over-loaded with fruit.
Indeed I suppose these trees are
frequently more loaded with ice, than
the best of orchards are with apples;
but, as was observed before, the
summit is quite naked of trees and opens
an unbounded prospect to the
enraptured beholder. You cast your eyes
eastwardly, a beautiful level
country, adorned with farms and
plantations presents itself to view, but if
you look southwardly, westwardly or
northerly, "Hills peep o'er hills and
mountains on mountains rise." Some
of these appear close at hand and
seem to invite you across the deep winding
valleys to take a view of
their rocky summits; while others at an
immense distance raise their
high heads above the floating clouds.
Interspersed among the valleys a
number of beautiful meadows discover
themselves to view. After in-
dulging ourselves with this enchanting
prospect about an hour, we set
off down, in doing which we passed by
one of the head springs of Otter
river. We got back to Mr. Chastain's a
little after sunset.
Sat. 10th. We left Mr. Chastain's about
11 o'clock after experiencing
the most unbounded generosity and
respect. We traveled slowly and
reached Buford's tavern in the evening,
where we had appointed to meet
some other company.
Sun 11th. We were this morning joined by
Wm. and James Bryant,
366 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
Mrs. Bryant and Mrs. Blakey. Started
from Buford's about 8 and passed
the Blue Ridge about 10 o'clock. In consequence of information we
received respecting the badness of the
wilderness road, we here turned
our course and made for the Kanhaway. We
passed Fincastle about 3
in the afternoon, which is the county
town of Botetourt. It is a neat
little town, very agreeably situated in
a fertile country, and in full view
of the Blue Ridge, Peaks of Otter and
certain high mountains in the west.
Here we find a surprising change in the
agricultural system to that used
on the eastern side of the mountain.
Here are no fields of tobacco cul-
tivated by droves of unhappy slaves. But
instead thereof the most beauti-
ful meadows with their purling streams
watering their green and
delightful borders. Here are barns stored with plenty, and hay
in
abundance in the meadows and nature
seems to smile on the industrious
and frugal husbandman. We took up in the
evening at A. Caldwell's in
a huge cluster of mountains.
THE SWEET SPRINGS -OTHER MINERAL
SPRINGS.
Mon. 12th. We have done little else
to-day but climb and descend
mountains. Immediately after leaving our
lodging, we began to ascend
what is called the Craigs creek mountain
and about 8 o'clock we reached
its summit. Here we found ourselves so
high that we could see the
clouds hovering in the valleys beneath
us and mountains innumerable
entirely surrounding us. Precisely at 12
o'clock we began to climb the
Potts-creek mountain. Two hours and ten
minutes of laborious travel
brought us to the top. About an hour and
half more we spent in going
down it. It is amazing steep and rocky,
especially in going down. But
we are not yet done with this rugged
day. We now began to ascend
the "Sweet-spring mountain,"
reached its summit about 5, and arrived
at the foot about sunset, which brought
us to the Sweet Springs where
we took up. This has been a most
tiresome and fatiguing day's travel
though we had gotten only 21 miles. The
scenes that presented them-
selves to our view were high mountains,
fearful precipices, enormous
rocks, deep winding valleys, high water
falls; and a dreary, lonely and
desert country, surrounded us on every
side. It was a most agreeable
sensation therefore which we experienced
when we reached the Sweet
Springs, where we met with good
accommodations.
Tues. 13th. As soon as it was well light
I took a walk to the
fountain, which claims the pre-eminence
of all the waters of Virginia.
It rises out of a beautiful valley at
the foot of the Sweet Spring mount-
ain, and is from 30 to 40 feet in
diameter. Near one edge of it is a box
about 12 inches square and 2 feet high,
with a spout, venting a stream
of water about the size of a man's arm;
from this spout the water is
taken which the people drink. About the
center of the spring is a
house containing two apartments with a
bath in each. These baths are
8 to 10 feet square and the water in
each is 3 or 4 feet deep, into which
Tours Into Kentucky and the
Northwest Territory. 367
they descend by steps. The water being
about bloodwarm renders bathing
a most agreeable as well as a most
profitable exercise. These waters are
found to contain a very considerable
quantity of air in consequence of
which, thousands of bubbles perpetually
rise. The taste of the water
is not easily described. It appears strongly impregnated with
vitriol,
while a small touch of sulphur is also
easily discoverable. This spring
is said by Jefferson to be one of the
headwaters of the James river. I
think it sends forth much the greatest
quantity of water of any fountain
I ever saw, part of which conveyed by
canal, works a saw-mill at about
100 yards distance from the spring and a
grist mill a little farther down.
The Red Springs about a mile down the
same stream next presented
themselves to view. This fountain with a
bold stream, that dyes the
earth and stones of a red, or rusty
cast, rushes out of a steep bank and
quickly mingles its waters with those of
the Sweet Springs, to which (if
we may be allowed to judge from the
taste) it seems nearly related.
To a contemplative and philosophic mind,
this country opens a wide
and extensive field, while it affords at
the same time a most striking
display of the wisdom, power and
goodness of the great Universal Archi-
tect. In one place we hear of springs
the "waters of which are hot
enough to boil an egg," while
others in a few feet of the same place
produce water as cool as common water.
Again we hear of others,
though quite cold will take fire by the
flame of a candle or the flash of
gunpowder and burn for days together.
Others issue forth strongly
impregnated with sulphur, while not a
few send forth in their brackish
streams immense quantities of common
salt. These different properties
are supposed to be produced by different
minerals through which these
waters pass. But how weak and perhaps
erroneous are the ideas we
from of these things. What strange cause
can produce such a sur-
prising heat in the hot springs, or the
inflammable matter in the burning
springs? All I can say is, to
acknowledge with one of old, that "these
things are too wonderful for me."
After satisfying our curiosity in
viewing these several springs, we
ascended the Allegheny mountain, the
summit of which we gained about
12 o'clock. Here we took leave of the
waters of the James river and with
it all others that run eastwardly. We
descended a branch of the Green
Briar river, called Howard's creek. Here
we saw what are called the
Sulphur Springs, an appellation which
they have received from there
having been a strong smell and taste of
sulphur. At these several
springs baths are erected and houses
built for the accommodation of the
sick, which flock to them from all parts
of the United States and even
from Europe; and if we are not wrongly
informed some very remarkable
cures have been effected by the virtue
of the waters. The country down
Howard's creek is poor and broken. Here
were more acorns than I ever
saw in any one place before. But we saw
a great number of pigeons
flocking thither which I suppose soon
devoured them. We went down
368 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society
Publications.
the creek to its mouth, just below which
we crossed Green Briar river
and reached Lewisburg about dark.
Wed. 14th. We spent some time in town
viewing its rarities and
curiosities. It consists of about 20
families, who are tradesmen, me-
chanics, etc. The situation of the place
is far from agreeable, being built
on very broken ground, without any river
to wash its borders or view
of high mountains at a great distance to
give it a prospect. The district
court is sometimes held at this place.
We pursued our journey through
some very fertile lands and arrived in
the evening at Gillyland's in the
edge of the wilderness. Here we overtook
our old friend Hatcher and
Sublett with their families with whom we
encamped.
Thurs. 15th. Immediately after our
setting out, a dark cloud showed
its broad front over the top of a
neighboring mountain. The rushing
wind, attended with heavy rain, roared
among the trees, and bellowed in
the mountains. We sheltered ourselves
under some large trees till the
fury of the storm was over. We then put
forward, but the wind con-
tinued very boisterous the rest of the
day and we were in much danger
from the falling trees. But the Lord
preserved us. Our journey to-day
has lain through a dreary, lonely,
uninhabited country and very badly
watered. We lodged or encamped in the
woods near the foot of Gauley
mountain. Here we thought it prudent to
keep sentry for fear of Indians.
THE TOP OF GAULEY MOUNTAIN- A CROWDED
BOAT.
Fri. 16th. We left our encampment about
an hour before day. At
sunrise we reached the top of Gauley
mountain, which is pretty high,
steep, rocky and slippery. But the
greatest difficulty is in descending
it; great caution and skill are
necessary in order to carry down a
wagon safe. At the foot of the mountain
we met a young man from
the Boatyard, who informed us that his
brother, who procured a boat,
was desirous of taking in some single
horsemen to complete his load.
On receiving this agreeable
intelligence, we dispatched two young men
express to the Boatyard to stop the boat
till we should arrive. We
crossed the rocky ford of Gauley river
about 10 o'clock, rode down it
about a mile, with the mountain projecting
over our heads on the
one hand and the river on the other
tumbling over the rocks. In a
small flat on the river I saw a number
of the most beautiful walnut
trees I ever saw, one of which I
measured with a thread, about 21 feet
in circumference, with a body about 40
feet long without a single limb.
We arrived at the Boatyard about half an
hour by sun but met with
very indifferent accommodations.
Sat. 17th. We procured for our voyage
51/2 bushels of sweet potatoes
and about 12 pounds of very indifferent
meat; it was however the best,
yea, all that we could get for our
company, which consists of 24 persons.
With this scanty stock of provisions we
embarked on board our boat
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 369
about 3 o'clock. But the wind being
against us, we got only four miles,
where we took up for the night.
Sun. 18th. The whole of our company, 24
in number and 14 horses
embarked on board our boat which is 28
feet long only. We were conse-
quently heavy loaded and amazingly
pestered for want of room. The
winds were yet contrary and pretty high
withal, which made us sail
very slow. Finding we could easily get
ahead of the boat, myself and
a few others, after procuring a pilot,
set out by land with an intention
to find out and take a view of those
wonders of nature.
THE BURNING SPRINGS.
Having reached a very rich and fertile
piece of woods on the bank
of the Kanhaway, our pilot informed us
we were near the springs. We
then set out in search of them. We had
been but a few minutes engaged
in this search, before an uncommon
rumbling noise called my attention
to a particular spot. I made to the
place and to my very great amazement
found a round puddle of muddy water of
about 6 feet in diameter
boiling and rumbling after a strange and
surprizing manner. The
Spring (as it is called) altho in this
strange agitation, had no vent or
stream issuing from it, yet boiled with
more violence than any spring
or pot I ever saw. We flashed a little
gunpowder over it and it instantly
took fire and flamed like burning
spirits. The smell of the fire was like
that of burning pitcoal and the flame, I
observed, did not produce any
smoke. We had therefore a very good
opportunity of warming ourselves,
the weather being pretty cold. About 50
yards from the above is another
spring of the same kind; this we found
burning. The water was entirely
extinguished and the fire seemed to
proceed out of the ground. Our
pilot informed us that this was the
largest spring of the two and sup-
posed it had been burning for several
days at least. It is observable that
the water in these springs is remarkable
cold, but after being set on
fire the water get warm and at length
disappears. The fire is easily
extinguished by smothering it. After we
had sufficiently viewed this sur-
prizing phenomenon we pursued our course
to the mouth of Elk, where
we again embarked and proceeded down the
river thro the Elk shoals,
and then took up for the night.
POINT PLEASANT.
Mon. 19th. We proceeded down the river,
sailed all night, slept
none and arrived about break of day at
Point Pleasant.
Tues. 20th. When it got sufficiently
light we took a view of the
place, the beautiful situation of which
is remarked by travelers. The
Monongalia and Allegania rivers form a
junction at Fort Pitt and from
thence downward is called the Ohio. The
course of this river is from
northeast to southwest generally; but
coming near the point it turns
northward and receives the Kanhaway. New
river and Green Briar unite
Vol. XVI.-24.
370 Ohio Arch. and
Hist. Society Publications.
their currents about 200 miles from the
Ohio and from their union
downward it is called the Kanawa. It
shapes its general course nearly
west, till coming near the point it
turns northward, and rolls its beautiful
and gentle current, into the still more
beautiful Ohio. In this beautiful
point, the land lies high, is amazing
rich, and uncommonly level. The
place seems to be formed by nature for a
town, and probably were we
acquainted with the history of America
as well as we are with that of
some other countries, we might mention
when the time was that a town
really stood on this very point. But
alas, nothing now remains of its
ancient works but a few monuments of the
dead. A new town is now
laid off; the streets are straight and
the lots enclosed, but the buildings
are (as yet) but very indifferent. But
its delightful situation, its con-
veniency for trade thro the two noble
rivers, which wash its borders,
its being surrounded by a rich and
fertile country, are objects which
point out its future consequence and
splendor. A little back of the town,
and between the two rivers, rises a
mountain which not only commands
an extensive view of the distant
country, the rivers and the point, but
will probably also at a future day be
the strength and safety of the
town. Here was a bloody battle fought
between the Indians and whites
in 1774.
GALLIPOLIS, THE FRENCH TOWN-AN
ENTERTAINING FRENCHMAN.
About 9 o'clock we left this delightful
situation and proceeded down
the Ohio. About an hour's sail brought
us alongside of the French
town Gallipolis. Here we also landed in
order to procure some bread
for hitherto we had been unable to
furnish any for our voyage. The
town contains, as we informed, about 100
families, who appear to live
in a very social, agreeable and friendly
manner, being a frugal and indus-
trious people.
While we were here a civil and well bred
Frenchman obligingly enter-
tained us with a number of curiosities.
He first kindled a fire of a small
clear flame, which, by means of a foot
bellows, he increased or diminished
at his pleasure. He then took a piece of
glass about the shape and size
of a pipe-stem (of which he had a great number of pieces); he held
this glass in the flame till it began to
melt, then applied it to his
mouth and blew it up like a bladder;
this he gave a fillip with his finger
and it burst with an explosion like the
report of a pistol. Another
glass he blew up in the same manner and
thro a tube as fine as a hair
filled it with water, running upward in
a strange manner and filling
the globe at the top. Other pieces he
wired as fine as a hair; indeed
it appeared as if he had taught this
brittle substance so far to obey
him, that it took any form he pleased.
He showed us a number of
thermometers, barometers, spirit proofs
etc., all of his own make. The
virtue of the spirit proof I tried on
different kinds of spirits, and found
it to answer the purpose for which it
was intended by showing the real
strength of the liquor. He terminated
these shows by exhibiting a chem-
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 371
ical composition which had the peculiar
quality of setting wood on
fire. The polite and agreeable manner in
which he entertained us
for about half an hour was not the
smallest gratification to me; for
while it marked the general character of
his nation, it placed his own in
a very conspicuous point of view.
We left Gallipolis about 2 o'clock,
pursued our course down the
river and were near the mouth of Sandy
river by sunrise the next
morning, 55 miles from the French town.
Sandy river is the boundary
line between Virginia and Kentucky.
Wed. 21st. The weather since we embarked
has been fair and pleas-
ant, which makes greatly in our favor.
Our horses however get very
restless and their legs swell
considerably but we comfort ourselves with
a hope that we shall reach Limestone
tomorrow.
Thurs. 22nd. About 2 o'clock in the
afternoon we reached the set-
tlement at Kennaday's bottom, and being
tired of our situation determined
here to land. We therefore disembarked
and pursued our journey down
the Ohio by land about 7 miles and took
up in the evening at a Mr.
Lawson's. We were in hopes to have got
some refreshment here, but to
our great mortification could get
neither bread, meat, milk or butter.
We however got some Irish potatoes and
parched corn and with this we
made our first meal in Kentucky. We then
composed ourselves to rest
and enjoyed a refreshing night's sleep
on the hard floor.
Fri. 23rd. We left the Ohio, and turned
our faces toward Lexington;
called and ate a hearty breakfast at A.
Vears; crossed the north fork of
Licking about 12, and came into a
country thickly inhabited and vastly
rich. We took up in the evening at Row's
on Johnston's Fork
THE BLUE LICKS.
Sat. 24th. Soon after our setting out we
passed over a ground ren-
dered memorable by reason of a battle
fought here in 1782, in which
Col. Todd, commander of the Kentuckians
and about 60 of his brave
companions in arms, fell victims to a
superior savage force. After
passing this aceldama or field of blood,
we soon reached the Blue Licks,
the country around which remains a
monument of barrenness. The amaz-
ing resort of buffalo to the Licks in
former times is supposed to be the
cause of this barrenness. As you
approach the Licks, at the distance
of 4 or 5 miles from it, you begin to
perceive the change. The earth
seems to be worn away, the roots of the
trees lie naked and bare, the
rocks forsaken of the earth, that once
covered them lie naked on the
neighboring hills, and roads of an
amazing size, in all directions, unite
at the Licks, as their common center.
Here immense herds of buffalo
used formerly to meet and with their
fighting, scraping etc., have worn
away the ground to what it is at
present. The Salt Spring at this place
rises in a flat ground near the river
Licking, and affords a great deal
of water. The water is brackish with a touch
of sulphur, and has a
372 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
bluish appearance, which is the reason
of its being called the Blue Licks.
Here they make considerable quantities
of salt. It is found that the
saltiest water is procured by sinking
wells a few feet deep and getting
the water from thence. In sinking a well
of this kind here some little
time past, the bones and teeth of an
animal of enormous size were
found. Some of these bones and teeth I
saw and handled. A tusk was
the most remarkable. It was something in
shape of a boar's tusk, was
4 or 5 feet long, and when first found
weighed about 50 pounds. We
left the Lick and pursued our journey to
Lexington following one of the
old buffalo roads, which I suppose was
generally 200 feet wide. After
we got from the Licks 5 or 6 miles the
lands became good and sur-
prizingly fertile. We reached Col.
Rogers' at Bryant Old Station where
we lodged.
LEXINGTON AND VICINITY- THE KENTUCKY
RIVER.
Sun. 25th. We entered and passed thro
Lexington, the boast and
pride of the Kentuckians. It is an
agreeable town, pleasantly situated, in a
thriving condition, and a place of
considerable trade. In the afternoon
I arrived at my brother's and had the
satisfaction of finding him and
his family in health.
Mon. 26th. Was called to attend the
funeral of a Mrs. Moddis,
who is said to have feared God from her
youth. She died yesterday
about 1 o'clock leaving a husband and
children to bewail her loss.
My brother requested me to preach, which
I did to a considerable number
of people, who were collected on the
occasion.
Fri. 30th. I went to Mr. John Watkins'
in Woodford county, at-
tended by my brother and sister Frances.
I was greatly pleased with Mr.
Watkins' settlement. The situation is
beautiful, land fertile, water good,
and air healthy. These blessings with a
contented mind, are an ines-
timable treasure. But alas, where is the
man that enjoys all these favors
at once and the same time?
Sat. 31st. We walked to Mr. Henry
Watkins' and saw there several
old friends and acquaintances and
returned in the evening to Mr. John
Watkins'.
Sun. Nov. 1st. I went with Mr. Watkins
to a meeting house and
heard Mr. John Dupuy preach a good
discourse. After he concluded
he requested me to preach; I did so from
Rev. 3 etc. The people heard
with seriousness and the deepest
attention, while I pointed out the danger
of apostacy, and the blessed effects of
perseverance. After preaching I
called and took dinner with Stephen
Trabeu; Mr. Dupuy and a number
of other old friends and acquaintances
making up our company. I then
proceeded to Edward Trabeu's and spent
the evening.
Mon. 2nd. Here for the first time I see
the Kentucky river, and
the inaccessible cliffs that appear on
both sides of it. The bed of the
river which I suppose cannot be less
than 300 feet below the tops of
these enormous banks appears like a
gutter cut to a vast depth by the
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 373
water during a long course of time; from
the tops of these banks (or
as they are more usually called, cliffs)
the sand goes off level and
after getting a little from the river
are amazingly rich. I left Mr.
Trabeu's after breakfast, dined at Mr.
Adams' and then proceeded to
Mr. John Moss', whose kindness to me
while traveling to this country
once before still fills my heart with
gratitude.
Tues. 3rd. I went to Lexington, where
were a vast number of people
collected to see a poor felon executed.
Here I met with my brother
and accompanied him home.
Wed. 4th. I set out on a journey to the
south side of Kentucky,
forded the river, passed thro part of
Mercer and Lincoln counties, and
reached John Bryant's in the evening.
Thurs. 5th. Mr. Bryant rode with me to
Capt. Owsley's in Madison
county. But instead of that cheerfulness
that once characterized this
family, I found that grief had erected
her standard here. This was
owing to the horrid and criminal conduct
of a Mr. Gouge (a son-in-law
of Capt. Owsley's), who a few days
before had killed a man and for
which atrocious act he is now confined
in Frankfort jail, and will probably
suffer the punishment, which his crime
deserves. The man murdered
had discharged an innocent slave, which
Gouge intended to flog. This
was a crime too great for Gouge's
boisterous temper to put up with. He
therefore discharged a rifle at the man,
the contents of which passing
thro his knee, caused his death 15 days
later.
Fri. 6th. I visited Wm. Bryant where I
wrote several letters to my
family and friends expecting to have a
ready conveyance by Mr. Douglass,
who intends to go to Richmond. But how
great was my disappointment
when I called at Mr. Douglass' and found
that he had started the day
before. It would have been a great
gratification to me to have contrived
a letter to them but must await another
conveyance.
Sat. 7th. I returned to Capt. Owsley's
and preached in the evening
to a small but attentive congregation
from Rev. 22: 17.
Sun. 8th. I had appointed to preach at
the meeting house on Sugar
creek, but was prevented by the rain. In
the evening I returned to Mr.
John Bryant's.
DROUTH IN KENTUCKY.
Mon. 9th. The summer and fall hitherto
having been uncommonly
dry in this country, has created an
alarming scarcity of water. Stock of
all kinds have suffered very much.
Horses to my knowledge have not
drank a single drop of water for many
days together, and cattle could
only loll out their tongues where they
once drank the refreshing stream.
The far greater part of the springs were
stopped running and not a
few entirely dry. Even the bottoms of
the mill ponds were as dry as
an hearth, and numbers of people had
their water to fetch several miles.
A day or two past the whole face of the
country was as dry as tinder,
and considerable rivers had ceased to
flow in their channels. But this
374 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
morning the scene is agreeably changed.
The springs, creeks, and
rivers flow in their usual channels and
the thirsty cattle flock thither and
quench their thirst. The mills, once
more driven by the force of the
water, prepare grain for the use of man.
Surely the people of this
country as well as the Virginians ought
to trace the footsteps of an
offended Deity. While the heavens has
been brass over this country,
floods, storms and tempests have laid
waste whole fields on the eastern
side of the mountains. If the rivers
here have been dry, in Virginia
they have swelled to an uncommon height,
while the mills in both countries
have been rendered useless, some for the
want of water and others by
having too much. Thus it is that
"God speaketh once, yea, twice yet
man perceiveth it not."
Tues. 10th. I travelled today in a
strange country among a strange
people, who earnestly importuned me to
come and preach among them
before I left the country. It appeared
that the Universalists, joining
with the Deists, had given Christianity
a deadly stab hereabouts. But
"the Lord hath his way in the
wilderness and all things obey his
might." I trust he will yet bring
good out of this evil, and that the
glory of scriptural religion, tho
obscure for the present, will shine forth
hereafter with redoubled luster.
THE CLIFFS OF KENTUCKY.
Wed. 11th. After taking breakfast with
Mr. Bryant I set out for
my brother's. About 12 o'clock I came to
the Kentucky river and found
it considerably raised. While the boat
was coming across to fetch me,
I improved the time, in taking a
particular view of the stones, that
everywhere lay about my feet. Limestone
in this country is everywhere
common, but here are also sand stones in
abundance. As good flint
as I ever saw was here to be seen in
considerable plenty and marble
itself was not wanting to make up the
rich variety. But what is very
strange, all these different kinds of
stone were to be seen at the same
time in one solid piece of a few pounds
weight.
The above is a description of the
pavement you stand upon; but
raising your eyes, a scene of a very
different kind strikes your aston-
ished mind. On each side of the river
you have a prospect of the
cliffs, a scene, tho wild and romantic,
yet awful and majestic. The rock
cannot be less than 200 feet in height
and in many places almost per-
pendicular and sometimes projecting
over. Here are large pieces to
be seen, which appear just ready to
break loose and tumble from their
high beds into the river below and it
sometimes actually happens that
they break loose from above and come
tumbling to the bottom in a
fearful and horrible manner. From the
bed of the river to the highest
part of the cliff, the rock seems to
have an appearance like that of a
river bank where a number of marks
appear, pointing out to the be-
holder how high the water has been in a
fresh. Their appearance sug-
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 375
gests an idea and confirms the history
of a universal flood, the power-
ful effects of which operating upon the
limestone rock (which being of
a dissoluble nature) have made there
various marks at the various
heights of the water while returning to
the abyss. This is only one
among a great number of arguments that
prove the doctrine of the
deluge. While traveling thro this
country I have observed that the
rocks in a number of places contain a
perfect impression of sea shells,
scolloped and carved in a most
extraordinary manner. At an Indian
grave, near Mr. Bryant's, I saw a number
of these appearances of differ-
ent kinds and shapes and a stone which
had the appearance of the
backbone of a fish, the joints of which
appeared quite plain and distinct.
From all this it would appear that this
country, tho 7 or 800 miles
from the sea, has been deluged with
water, and if so, how reasonable
it is to suppose that it was at the time
of the universal flood.
The cliffs of Kentucky produce little
else but cedar, which shooting
their roots among the rocks, grow in
great abundance. They are gen-
erally from 6 inches to 2 feet thro,
some however are much larger I
am told, and well adapted to building.
After getting clear of the cliffs,
the soil gets richer as we go from the
river till it exceeds description.
OBSERVATIONS ON KENTUCKY.
Thurs. 12th. I have now travelled thro a
considerable part of the
state of Kentucky. The fertility of the
lands generally, vastly exceed
anything I ever saw before. But O alas!
There as in Virginia, the
slavery of the human race is
unfortunately tolerated. Contrary to rea-
son and justice, contrary to our bill of
rights, contrary to the prin-
ciples of the American Revolution and
contrary to the dictates of con-
science, legislative, executive and
judiciary departments connive at so
flagrant a violation of right, while the
great body of people, persist in
a practice that must prove their
overthrow. Here the cries of the
oppressed are heard, while the mark of
the whip strikes the feeling
heart with the keenest sensibility. The
groans of the captive, heave the
troubled breast and the trickling tear
moistens the sable cheek, while
innocent blood pollutes the ground and
cries to heaven for vengeance.
There are a number of slaveholders
however, tho deaf to the exhorta-
tion of the prophet (Is. 58:6) yet speak
and act towards their slaves
with kindness in some degree. Yea some
go so far as to allow them
considerable liberties, but this is not
generally the case. What pity
it is, that the inhabitants of this
country had not considered their true
interest when framing their constitution
and shut out this horrid prac-
tice from them. When I reflect on the
fertility of Kentucky, it really
grieves me to think, that ever the blood
of a slave should stain so
rich a soil.
376 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
JOURNEY TO THE OHIO.
Fri. 13th. After commending my body and
spirit to God I fixed
and started for the northwest side of
the Ohio. I arrived at Lexing-
ton about 12, met there with my
companion Thos. Porter; were de-
tained there till 3, then set out and
arrived at Col. Collins' in the
evening, with whom we lodged.
Sat. 14th. We left our lodgings about 9
o'clock, after experiencing
every mark of generosity and politeness
from Col. Collins. About 11
we passed thro Georgetown, the county
seat of Scott. The town is
pleasantly situated in a very fertile
country, half a mile from Elkhorn
and is composed of two principal
streets, crossing each other at right
angles, which throws the town into the
form of a cross. About 3 in
the afternoon, we came upon the waters
of Eagle creek; here we got
into an uninhabited country, the lands
on Eagle creek being poor and
very broken. At sunset we ascended what
is called the Dry Ridge, on
which the road goes 27 miles without
crossing a drop of water. This
ridge divides the waters that fall into
the Licking from those which
fall into Eagle creek. The night was
dark and the horizon overcast
with clouds and threatening rain. We
endeavored to pursue a solitary
track thro an immense wood, but for want
of sufficient light we some-
times wandered out of the way. After
traveling about 12 miles thro
this dark wilderness we fortunately
reached a house, which we were
glad to see. No beds being to be had
here, we spread our blankets
on the floor and slept as comfortable as
if we had been on beds of
down.
Sun. 15th. The lowering clouds which
threatened us last evening
now discharge their watery contents on
the earth. But we rose early
and pursued our journey thro the
descending storm. We now over-
took a number of officers who had been
to Lexington and were now
on their way to rejoin the army. In
company with these we pursued
our journey. About 12 we baited at
Read's, rested about 1 hour here
and again set forward, and thro heavy
rain and sloppy roads arrived
on the bank of the Ohio about sunset.
REFLECTIONS ON CROSSING THE OHIO INTO A
LAND OF FREEDOM-
CINCINNATI.
We are now in full view of the beautiful
and flourishing town of
Cincinnati, most delightfully situated
on the bank of "the most beauti-
ful river on earth." This large and
populous town has risen almost
instantaneously from nothing, it being
(as I was told) only 4 years
since it was all in woods. But such is
the happy effects of that govern-
ment in which every trace of vassalage
is rooted out and destroyed. To
a real republican, as I am, how
grateful, how pleasing the sight which I
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 377
now behold. To a man weary of slavery
and the consequent evils at-
tending it what pleasing reflections
must arise.
The goodly land I see,
With peace and plenty blest,
A land of sacred liberty
And joyous rest.
But this distant sight is not enough for
me. My feelings I expect are
something like those of Moses, when he
uttered that passionate prayer
recorded in Deuteronomy 3:25, "I
pray thee let me go over and see
the good land that is beyond Jordan,
that goodly mountain and Lebanon."
With a pleasing hope of this desire
being granted, we left the Kentucky
shore and in about 5 minutes landed on
"The Territory Northwest of
Ohio." On arriving on shore I could but thank God, who had pre-
served me thro many dangers, and brought
me at length to see a land
where liberty prevails, and where human
blood is not shed like water
by the hand of the merciless and
unfeeling tyrant. Here are no objects
of despair, deprived of liberty and worn
down with continual toil. We
seem to be gotten out of hearing of the
cries of the tortured and the
mournful voice of woe. We hear no
threats of the inhuman driver,
nor lashes of the loud resounding whip.
We see no backs furrowed
with whipping, nor cheeks moistened with
the tears of sorrow. We
see no husbands and wives torn from each
others arms, by worse than
savage cruelty. We hear no fathers and
mothers bewailing the miser-
able fate of their hapless offspring,
torn from their embraces and carried
into perpetual slavery. Even the loud
and bitter cry of parents and
children torn asunder under such
circumstances as these, reach not
the ears of the highly favored
inhabitants of this thrice happy land
But on the other hand, here the honest
and industrious farmer culti-
vates his farm with his own hands, and
eats the bread of cheerfulness,
and rests contented on his pillow at
night. The aged mother instructs
her daughters the useful and pleasing
accomplishments of the distaff
and the needle, with all things else
that is necessary to constitute them
provident mother sand good housewives.
The young man (instead of
a cowskin or some other instrument of
torture) takes hold of an ax,
or follows the plough. The ruddy damsel
thinks it no disgrace to wash
her clothes, milk her cows, or dress the
food for the family. In a
word, it is no disgrace here to engage
in any of the honest occupations
of life, and the consequence is, trade
and manufactures increase, the
people live free from want, free from
perplexity, free from the guilt
that results from the practice of
keeping slaves. Thus they live happy
and their end is peace.
378 Ohio
Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
HIS FIRST SERMON IN THE NORTHWEST
TERRITORY--FORT HAMILTON-
DOWN THE GREAT MIAMI.
Mon. 16th. We left Cincinnati about 9
o'clock pursuing our journey
toward Fort Hamilton; after traveling
about 7 miles we met with a
remarkable friendly man of the name of
Talbert. He over persuaded
us to stay with him till the next
morning, to which we at length con-
sented. His kind and amiable wife set to
and baked a quantity of
biscuit for us to take with us on our
journey. In the meantime Mr.
Talbert sent and collected a number of
his neighbors to whom I
preached the glad tidings of salvation
from Luke 2:10. The attentive
hearers behaved with seriousness and I
humbly hope this word will
not be in vain. Mr. Talbert informed us
that his abhorence of slavery
led him to take sanctuary in this
country at a very early period. He
appears to be a man that fears God and
treated us with uncommon
kindness, for which may the Lord reward
him.
Tues. 17th. After taking breakfast with
these kind and friendly
people we committed each other to God
and departed. In our way to
Fort Hamilton we were shown the spot
where last May 12 mo. 8
men who were conducting provisions
&c to the army were butchered
by the Indians. The Indians concealed
themselves behind some high
weeds and pawpaw bushes on both sides of
the road; the first fire
they killed 7 men. A resolute young
horseman drew his sword, rushed
on an Indian and instantly killed him.
He had but just time to execute
this when he was overpowered and killed.
The bodies of the dead were
laid together in a heap and covered with
a pile of logs. I saw a num-
ber of their bones, particularly a skull
which had been mangled in a
most frightful manner with the Indian
tomahawk. A young man whom
we saw at the place informed us that he
himself was one of the un-
fortunate party and from him I received
the above account.
About 4 o'clock we reached Hamilton.
This fortification stands on
the eastern bank of the Miami river
about 30 miles from Cincinnati
and nearly as far from the North Bend.
The fort is built of large logs
with port holes to shoot thro. This is
partly surrounded with an outer
wall of considerable extent; this wall
is composed of the bodies of trees
of about 9 or 10 inches in diameter, cut
off about 10 or 12 feet long,
set endways in the ground, and sharpened
at the top. It was my in-
tention to have proceeded up this river
as far as the mouth of Mad
river, but not being very fond of lying
in the woods we here terminated
our travels northwestwardly and returned
towards the Ohio, pursuing
our course down the Miami river, which
at this place is about 120
yards wide and affords a navigation to
within a few miles of naviga-
tion in a river of the lakes. We
proceeded down the river about 5
miles and lodged with an Irish family
adjoining the river. Here we got
plenty of fish which are taken in great
abundance in this river.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 379
Wed. 18th. We set out early and traveled
to and fro thro the wild
woods. A body of low grounds which we
came thro last evening, for
beauty and fertility exceeding any that
I had ever seen. I had therefore
a wish to see the lands on the hights;
for this purpose we ascended the
highest hills we could find and to my
great astonishment found the lands
here in no respect inferior to the low
grounds. The growth being mostly
walnut was amazing large; buckeye,
sugartree and white ash abounded
here also. Scarcely any undergrowth but
pawpaw was to be seen. The
earth we found light and green as a
carpet; wild rye and clover was here
in abundance. Game we found in great
plenty. Indeed it seems to
abound with beasts, fish and fowl in the
greatest abundance. After rid-
ing several miles thro these rich but
uninhabited lands, we returned to
the river and pursued our course.
THE MOUNDS- AN OLD FORTIFICATION.
About 11 o'clock we came to Dunlap's
Station; here the river makes
a large bend in the form of a horseshoe
and encircles a beautiful, fertile
flat of considerable extent. I have
often observed while traveling thro
this country a number of round hillocks,
raised from 15 feet high and
under and from 50 to an hundred yards
round them. It seems evident
that these places are not natural, but
are the work of men. The only
question seems to be, what were they
made for? Some have supposed
they were once plans of defense; but the
most probable opinion is, that
they are burying places of the former
inhabitants of this country. On
digging into these, I am informed, great
quantities of bones are found
lying in a confused, promiscuous manner.
Some authors inform us that
once in ten years the Indians collect
the bones of their dead, and bring
them all to one place and bury them.
Thus they proceed putting one
layer over another till they get them to
the height above mentioned.
An object however of a different kind
now presents itself to our
view. In the bend, or horse shoe above
mentioned, is a neck of land
about 4 or 500 yards wide. Across this
neck of land lies an old wall
joining the river at each end and
enclosing I suppose about 100 acres of
land. This wall is composed of earth dug
from the outside, where a
ditch of some depth is still
discernable. The wall as present is so mould-
ered down that a man could easily ride
over it. It is however, about 10
feet as near as I can judge in
perpendicular height and gives growth to
a number of large trees. In one place I
observe a breach in the wall
about 60 feet wide where I suppose the
gate formerly stood, thro which
the people passed in and out of this
stronghold. Compared with this
what feeble and insignificant works are
those of Fort Hamilton, or Fort
Washington. They are no more in
comparison to it than a rail fence is
to a brick wall.
We travelled down the Miami river from
this old fortification, pur-
suing our course to the Ohio, our only
guide being the river, for path
380 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society
Publications.
we had none. I have however reason to
believe, that there had in for-
mer ages been a road leading along the
very course we were going. My
reasons for thinking so, were these: I
observe in a number of places, the
river hill is pretty steep and comes
quite down to the water. In such
places as these, I observed a level
place on the hillside, from 30 to 60 feet
wide appearing as if the hill had been
cut down and the earth removed
to the lower side. This appearance
continues till we came within a half
mile of the Ohio, where I thought I
could discover the traces of an old
town. It is probable that the appearance
alluded to, was once a high
road, leading from the town of the
Miami, to this other on the Ohio.
But a vast length of time must have
elapsed since these surprising works
were performed. The trees on the wall in
the town and on the high-
way (if such they were in reality) are
as big as they are in other places.
About 4 o'clock we arrived at Judge
Simms', who has the disposal
of this rich and beautiful country. I
hoped to have seen the judge and
to have some conversation with him
respecting the land here, but neither
him nor his deputy being home I was
unhappily disappointed.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE TERRITORY NORTHWEST
OF THE OHIO
Having now finished my tour thro the
territory northwest of the
Ohio, it may not be amiss to speak in
general terms of the country thro
which I have passed. From Cincinnati we
found the lands near the river
broken, not very rich, a little sand and
some small pebble stones. 5 or
6 miles from the river, the lands were
level, clear of stone, soil rich,
water good and clear and serene air. As
we advanced further the lands
continued level, but were not as well
watered as they were a little back.
Within about 9 or 10 miles of Hamilton,
the lands I think are the richest
I ever saw. The growth is mostly walnut,
sugartree, &c, tied together
by clusters of grapevines, which in this
country grow amazingly large.
From this to Hamilton is the most
beautiful level that ever my eyes be-
held; the soil is rich, free from swampy
or marshy ground and the
growth mostly hickory.
Near Hamilton we saw several pararas, as
they are called. They
are large tracts of fine, rich land,
without trees and producing as fine
grass as the best meadows. From Hamilton
down the Miami river to
the Ohio, the lands exceed description.
Indeed this country of all others
that I ever saw, seems best calculated
for earthly happiness. If you have
a desire to raise great quantities of
corn, wheat or other grain, here is
perhaps the best soil in the world,
inviting your industry. If you prefer
the raising of cattle or feeding large
flocks of sheep, here the beautiful
and green parara excites your wonder and
claims your attention. If
wearied with toil, you seek the bank of
the river, as a place of rest, here
the fishes sporting in the limpid stream
invite you to cast in your hook,
and draw forth nourishment for yourself
and your family. The most
excellent fowl perch in the trees and
flutter in the waters, while these
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 381
immense woods produce innumerable
quantities of the most excellent
venison. Amidst this rich, this pleasing
variety, he must be undeserving
the name of man, who will want the
common comforts of life. Glad
should I have been to have had a little
more time to have pleased my
eyes with a view of this delightful
country. But circumstances call me
hence. I must now take off mine eyes and
turn them another way and
for the present bid adieu to this
delightful land.
LIBERTY AND SLAVERY.
I can not however on this occasion
conceal the warm emotions of my
heart. Long have I wished to see a land,
sacred to liberty, nor stained
with the crimson dye of blood. A land
where slavery, the present dis-
grace and the future scourge of
America, should not be permitted to
come. This ardent wish I at length see
accomplished and in this infant
country behold the features of true
felicity and greatness. Here I see
genuine liberty and national happiness
growing up together, on the firm
foundation and under the guardian
protection of constitutional authority.
Yes, I anticipate O land, the rising
glory of thy unequalled fame.
Thy forests, now wild and uncultivated,
soon shall the hand of industry
sow with golden grain. Thy unequalled
soil, cultivated by the fostering
hands of freemen shall e'er long display
its beauties and yield an increase
worthy a land of liberty. Thy stately
trees, habituated for ages to lie
and rot shall e'er long raise the lofty
dome and be fashioned into curious
workmanship, by the hand of the
ingenious artist. Thy large and noble
rivers which silently flow in gentle
currents, shall e'er long waft thy rich
products to distant markets in foreign
climes; and thou, beautiful Ohio
shalt stand an impenetrable barrier, to
guard this sacred land. And tho
the tears of the oppressed on thy
southeastern border, may help increase
thy crystal tide, yet the galling yoke,
should it attempt to cross thy cur-
rent, shall sink beneath thy wave and be
buried in thy bosom. The voice
of the oppressor may spread terror and
dismay thro the eastern and
southern states but farther than thy
delightful banks, it cannot, it dare
not, it shall not be heard. Yes in thee,
O thrice happy land, shall be
fullfilled an ancient prophecy.
"The wilderness and the solitary place
shall be glad and the desert shall
rejoice and blossom as the rose. The
glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it,
the excellency of Carmel and
Sharon; for in the wilderness shall
waters break out, and streams in
the desert. There the weary prisoners
shall rest together and hear not
the voice of the oppressor." (Isa.
35. Job 3.). I must now leave this fair
land of happiness with offering to
heaven this humble request: May the
foot of pride never come against thee,
nor human blood stain thy lovely
plains. May the scourge of war, never
desolate thee, or cruel tyrants
raise their banners here. May thy aged
never feel the loss of liberty,
nor the yoke of slavery rest on the
necks of thy children. May thy gates
remain open to the oppressed of all
nations and may those that flock
382 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
thither, be the excellent ones of the
earth; and if the still continued op-
pressions of enlightened Virginia,
should at length bring down the just
judgments of an incensed Deity, may it
be, when I or those that pertain
unto me have found an asylum in thy
peaceful borders.
THE OHIO NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT
MIAMI.
We crossed the Ohio at the North Bend
and reached the Kentucky
shore about sunset. The Ohio here (as in
all other places that I ever
saw it, is gentle, smooth and clear; and
as far as we were informed about
three quarters of a mile over. We rode
down it, after crossing it, about
9 miles to Thomas Moseley's where we
lodged.
Thurs. 19th. When we arose in the
morning we found ourselves on
one of the most beautiful and agreeable
situations, that I have seen south
of the Ohio. This noble and delightful
river rolls its beautiful current,
under Mr. Moseley's windows a full
prospect of which for several miles
each way presents itself to view. The
point where the Miami mingles
its waters with those of the Ohio, is
also easily seen, being about 3 miles
up the river. Boats passing and
repassing continually render the pros-
pect still more pleasing and delightful.
The bank of the river here, is at
least 50 feet high, from the top of
which a beautiful level plain extends
itself, containing not less than 200
acres of very rich land. Nature seems
to have formed this for a town for which
it is well calculated in every
respect, except that it lacks good
water. The river affords a never end-
ing supply but the banks are of such a
vast height, and withal so very
steep, that renders it extremely
difficult to get water from thence.
It is however an undoubted fact
notwithstanding these difficulties,
that a town of considerable note,
actually once stood on this very
spot. What nature denied, art then
supplied. These high banks have
avenues cut extending from the water
about 100 yards, by which means
the ascent is made gradual and the water
thereby easily brought from
the river. There are about 10 of these
cuts in the bank, being about 100
feet apart. On the level above
mentioned, I observed a number of places
appearing like old cellars some of which
were very large and in a square
shape. I suppose there were nearly fifty
of these. In another place a
mount of considerable height still
remains. Mr. Moseley informed me
that human bones were found here, buried
deep in the earth, as is the
custom with us. These cellars, these
cuts in the river bank, these bones
found deep in the earth, the old highway
over the river and the wall on
the Miami, are sufficient to warrant a
belief, that a civilized people, once
inhabited this country; for nothing of
the kind is practiced among the
savages at this day. But who they were,
how brought here, or whither
gone, are matters which we must be
content to remain ignorant of. We
may form conjectures, but they may be
wrong. I shall therefore confess
my ignorance and be silent.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 383
BIG BONE LICK - FRANKFORT.
Fri. 20th. We set out after early
breakfast, taking in our way the
Big Bone Lick, where we arrived about 1
o'clock. This is one of the
principal salt licks in Kentucky, but
being in a frontier part is not worked
at present. The salt water issues forth
out of a boiling spring with a
very bold stream and emits a strong
smell of sulphur and has a bluish
cast. It also dyes the earth and stones
over which it passes of the same
colors and leaves a white scum where it
overflows. But the most re-
markable thing we saw here, were the big
bones, which gave name to the
Lick. These we saw lying round about the
spring in abundance and
were truly of a most enormous size. A
person living at the place in-
formed me that the bones are mostly
under ground and are got by dig-
ging. It is probable that they are kept
from putrefaction by the strength
of the salt water, and by that means
have been kept entire from time im-
memorial. Deer about the lick are very
plenty, and a few buffalo yet
remain. We left this place about 2 and
reached Little's about 9, after
traveling about 43 miles.
Sat. 21st. We started early and reached
Col. Collins' about sunset.
Sun. 22nd. Having some business at the
metropolis, I shaped my
course for Frankfort and lodged in the
evening with a Mr. Major about
3 miles out of town
Mon. 23d. Mr. Bryant (with whom I
lodged) and myself set out for
Frankfort, where we arrived about 9
o'clock. We took breakfast at Mr.
Bryant's lodgings and repaired to the
capitol, where the assembly of Ken-
tucky are now in session. While the
members were collecting, Mr. Bryant
took me up the steps into the steeple
from whence I had a most beauti-
ful view of the whole city.
Frankfort, the metropolis of Kentucky,
is situate in a deep valley
in a bend of the Kentucky, and is washed
by that river on the south and
west. On the north rises a high hill,
commanding an extensive prospect.
At the east end of the town, the hill is
low and admits a good road
in to the city, which in fact is the
only way that there can be a good road
got to it. A very few good buildings
have lately been erected in this
new city. But the state house or capitol
is most worthy of notice. It
is an elegant stone building three
stories high, a steeple on the top and
a portico on each side. The work is well
executed and it makes a noble
appearance. I left Frankfort after
dinner and about an hour in the night
reached Josiah Woodridge's, with whom I
spent this evening.
Tues. 24th. I visited several old
acquaintances, taking my leave of
them all, as I expect to see them no
more before I leave the country.
I came in the evening and lodged with my
kind friend John Moss.
Wed. 25th. I left Mr. Moss' after
breakfast, called at Mr. Watkins'
and at Mr. Lockett's and arrived at my
brother's a little after dark.
Thurs. 26th. Attended, with my brother,
a funeral in the neighbor-
hood and returned in the evening.
384 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
Fri. 27th. My brother and his wife and
myself visited Capt. Hollo-
way and returned in the evening.
Sat. 28th. Continued at my brother's.
HEARS A NEGRO PREACH -A HUNT.
Sun. 29th. Attended a funeral where I
heard a black man preach,
to the wonder and astonishment of a
number of whites. I was happy
to find that the prejudices against the
poor blacks are less powerful in
this country than in Virginia. I gave an
exhortation after the black
man concluded, and my brother,
terminated the meeting with an exhorta-
tion at the grave. The greatest decency
and good behavior was discov-
erable through the whole solemnity. 0!
when will the time come when
"Ethiopia shall stretch forth her
hand" and these poor outcasts of men be
favored with all the privileges of men
and of Christians? I spent the
evening agreeably with Mr. Lockett and
his family.
Mon. 30th. Mr. Lockett and my brother,
this afternoon took a small
hunt, in which I accompanied them. They
killed two opossums, 2 tur-
keys, 3 pheasants, three pigeons and 4
partridges. If game is thus
plenty where the people are so thick,
what must we think of the fron-
tier?
Tues. Dec. 1. Went in company with my brother
to Woodford
court. Here I met with Mr. Charles
Bailey, with whom I made an agree-
ment to start for Virginia on Friday
next. Just as we were about to
leave the court house, came on a violent
storm of thunder, wind and
rain, through which we returned to my
brother's.
Wed 2d. and Thurs. 3d. I spent in
getting my horse shod and
fixing to start for home.
HOMEWARD JOURNEY THROUGH CUMBERLAND GAP.
Fri. 4th. I took leave of my brother's
family, himself and sister
Frances accompanying me some distance.
At Mr. Lockett's, I met with
Mr. Bailey and Thos. Porter and we set
out from thence about 11
o'clock and proceeded for the Crab
Orchard. My brother and me now
took an affectionate leave of each other
and parted. We got to Wm.
Bryant's about 7 at night.
Sat. 5th. We pursued our journey to the
Crab Orchard where we
arrived a little after dark.
Sun. 6th. We left Crab Orchard about
break of day; the weather
intensely cold and ground frozen
rendered it bad traveling. We baited
at Lankford's and pushed on again. About
10 o'clock we reached Rock
Castle river, in crossing of which I met
a remarkable deliverance. My
horse attempting to mount a steep bank,
fell backward into the river,
but instantly rising again, made a
second attempt and fell the second
time and had well nigh thrown me against
a large rock. He rose in an
instant and mounting the bank, carried
me out safe without the least
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 385
hurt. It is very remarkable that in the
midst of this hurry and confusion
I was not at all frightened, but felt my
spirits calm and was enabled to
keep my seat in the saddle. Not an hair
of our head shall fall to the
ground without the permission of our
heavenly Father. We reached and
tarried at Logan's Station.
Mon. 7th. We started as soon as we could
see, through rain and
mud, baited at Collins' Station and
reached Middleton's.
Tues. 8th. Started as soon as it was
light. The falling snow soon
covered us with a white mantle. The
roads are dreadful bad and our
horses lame. But our situation is
preferable to some others. Poor
women and children! I feel much for you,
who are wading through the
mud, up to your horses' bellies, while
the snow from above benumbs your
tender limbs. We baited at the station
at Cumberland river and reached
Davis' in the evening at the foot of
Cumberland mountain.
Wed. 9th. We started just as the sun
began to gild the tops of the
high mountains. We ascended Cumberland
mountain, from the top of
which the bright luminary of day
appeared to our view in all his rising
glory; the mists dispersed and the
floating clouds hasted away at his
appearing. This is the famous Cumberland
Gap, where the numbers have
felt the butchering tomahawk. Here we
re-enter the state of Virginia,
after an absence of 50 days, during
which time I have traveled to and
fro, through these western regions about
1,000 miles. Only 4 days I have
rested from traveling, the rest I have
spent in riding through this country
in various directions, having passed
through the counties of Mason, Bour-
bon, Fayette, Woodford, Mercer, Lincoln,
Madison, Scott, Franklin and
Hardin. Consequently my opportunities of
seeing the country have been
pretty considerable but as so many have
given a description of this
country, I shall be silent on that head.
We traveled a few miles in Vir-
ginia and came to the territory
southwest of Ohio. We came in the
evening to Capt. Chissum's with whom I
spent the evening.
Thurs. 10th. After breakfast, I set off,
passed the high Clinch
mountains, ferried the river and in the
evening reached Major Orr's
where we lodged.
Fri. 11th. Started early and reached
Long's near Ross' Iron Works.
Sat. 12th. My horse being taken unwell,
proves a great affliction
to me. I am near 400 miles from home, in
a strange country and among
a strange people. But I am conscious that
my Almighty Protector is
near and he knows what is best for me. I
will therefore cheerfully
commit the disposal of all to Him. We
reached and took up at a widow
Anderson's. Here we are again in
Virginia having traversed the south-
ern territory about 70 or 80 miles.
Sun. 13th. We traveled (my horse being
better) and reached Craig's
one mile below Washington Court House.
Mon. 14th. After a rainy night we arose
with the light and prepared
for our journey, but to our great
mortification found it snowing. But
what was worse than all, my horse was
stiff foundered. However my
Vol. XVI.-25.
386 Ohio
Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
anxious desire to see my family
surmounted these difficulties. We set
off, traveled slow and reached
Thompson's, 12 miles below the head of
Holstein.
Tues. 15th. We pursued our journey
through piercing winds and
over the mountains covered with snow and
reached Stropher's in the
evening.
Wed. 16th. Started early and reached
Dublin in the evening.
Thurs. 17th. We started as soon as it
was light, crossed New river
in the morning and the Alleghania
mountain about 2 in the afternoon.
Here we salute the eastern waters. We
rode down Roanoke some dis-
tance and saw the surprising effects of
the freshet last fall. So violent
was the force of the waters, that it cut
a new channel for the river and
filled up the old, as we were informed,
drowned a number of cattle and
did much other damage to the beautiful
farms on the river.
Fri. 18th. We crossed the Blue Ridge and
reached Capt. Buford's.
Sat. 19th. After getting breakfast, we
pursued our journey and
reached Mr. Chastain's in the evening in
Bedford.
Sun. 20th. Our horses find difficult
traveling this morning by the
clogging of the snow, which fell last
night, about 3 inches deep. We
reached Mr. Stovall's.
Mon. 21st. We reached Mr. Gatch's.
Tues. 22d. Pursued my journey and
reached Mr. Francis Harris'.
Wed. 23d. About 9 o'clock had the
pleasing satisfaction of meet-
ing my family and finding them in
health. For the mercies of the Lord,
bestowed them on me and them, may his
name have endless praise.
Amen.
III.
JOURNEY INTO THE NORTHWEST TERRITORY-1797.
Near two years have passed since a
glimpse of the Northwestern
Territory first saluted my wondering
eyes. The fertility of its soil and
the liberality of its government,
convinced me of its real worth and
immense value. A desire to make myself
more fully acquainted with
that country, and a wish to provide a
place to carry my family to,
together with a design to survey some
lands in the state of Kentucky,
determined me to leave my family and
domestic concerns for a time
in order to accomplish the above
purposes. I took leave of my family
and friends, August 31st, 1797 and set
my face westwardly.
About 12 I reached my brother George
Smith's. Accompanied by
my brother and Sister Sublett we pursued
our journey. At Pow-
hatan Court House we were joined by Wm.
Sowall and James
About sunset we reached the house of Mr.
Robert Biscoe. Here we
found a number of people awaiting our
arrival, to whom I preached
from 2 Peter 3:14. Bro. George was
poorly.
Fri. Sept. 1st. We took early breakfast
and started. The weather
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 387
was amazing hot and our horses seemed
scarcely able to proceed. We
however reached Wm. Maxey's about 1
o'clock, took dinner and then
rode on to brother Gatch's. Here also we
found a large company wait-
ing for preaching. Bro. George being
still poorly, I again attempted to
preach from Rev. 22:17. Bro. George
exhorted a little after I had done,
and Bro. Gatch spoke a few words after
him. A spirit of engagedness
came upon the people; some shouted
amain, while others were weeping
bitterly and crying for mercy. It was
just 12 o'clock when we lay down
to take a little repose.
Sat. 2d. The weather being so exceeding
and uncommon warm, our
company by mutual consent agreed to lie
by until the next morning.
Sun. 3d. Took leave of our affectionate
friends and started. Called
and took dinner at Flood's Tavern, then
rode on to Hunter's. My Bro.
and myself rode on about 2 miles further
to Mrs. Stovall's.
Mon. 4th. About sunrise our company
assembled at the place ap-
pointed and having gotten from all our
acquaintances, etc., propose pur-
suing our journey. We are now five in
number, Mr. Edward Watkins
having joined us. We took breakfast at
De priests, passed New London,
a little after 12, dined at Lee's and
then rode on to Liberty or Bedford
Court House, and took up at Ota Tavern.
Tues. 5th. We rose with the day and
started, breakfasted at Bu-
ford's, rested two or three hours and
then set out forward; crossed
the Blue Ridge about 2 o'clock, got
dinner with a Dutchman and lodged
at McLannahan's.
Wed. 6th. I was considerably indisposed
by a severe cold. We
started, breakfasted at Dunlap's,
crossed the Allegenia mountain, rode
through a poor country, gave 5 s. per
bushel for oats to feed our horses
and rode on to Stobaugh's.
Thurs. 7th. Having sweated freely the
last evening I feel much
better.
About sunrise we started, breakfasted at Ad. Hacent's and
reached Wythe Court House or the town of
Evansham in the evening
and took up at Johnston's Tavern.
Fri. 8th. Made an early start,
breakfasted at Cathascries, baited at
Crow's (head of Holstein). From thence
we traveled till late in the
night before we could get anything for
ourselves or horses. About 9
we reached the sign of the Blue Ball and
took up with Meek's.
Sat. 9th. Breakfasted at Greenway's,
passed Abingdon about 12,
baited at Col. Purton's, dined at
Boulton's and took up at Hickman's
on the borders of Tennessee.
Sun. 10th. We entered Tennessee, baited
at Goddard's, dined at
Yancey's and passed on to Klyne's.
Mon. 11. Breakfasted at Hawkins Court House (at Rogers'
Tavern) and reached Oris' in the
evening.
Tues. 12th. We set out early and
presently began to climb the
steep, rugged and rocky mountain of
Clinch. Arriving near the top, we
found ourselves in a surrounding cloud,
the contents of which showered
388 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
plentifully upon us. We pursued our
course, crossed Clinch mountain,
Copper Ridge, Clinch river and reached
the Big Spring about 11 o'clock.
Here we got breakfast with Mr. E.
Chisme, thence crossed Walkins'
Ridge, Powell's river and in the evening
reached Cumberland Gap, entered
the state of Kentucky and took up at
Davis'.
Wed. 13th. After leaving our lodgings,
about 3 hour's ride brought
us to Cumberland river. Here we were stopped by the turnpike men,
who demanded fees of 1 s. per man for
admittance thro the turnpike
gate. We paid the money and went on
intending to get breakfast at
the Ford, but to our great
disappointment could get nothing but a little
milk and some mush made of pounded meal
and a little green corn.
We took our repast and set forward and
crossed the river, which is
about 100 yards wide. But the drought
has been such that I walked
quite across the river and did not wet
the soles of my feet. We baited
at Middleton's and reached Ballenger's
in the evening, but the station
was so crowded that we preferred lying
in the woods.
Thurs. 14th. Started about an hour
before day, breakfasted at Thomp-
son's and reached Ch. Smith's in the
evening.
Fri. 15th. Our company now separated. My
brother and myself
take the right hand road at Lankford's
and the others the left. We
reached the settlement of Kentucky about
9 o'clock, breakfasted and
rode thro the fertile lands of Kentucky,
to Mr. John Bryant's. It was
delightful to see the fine fields of
corn, which everywhere presented
themselves to our view. What a
surprizing difference there is between
the produce of these lands and those of
the back part of Virginia. The
people are kind and hospitable to
strangers and plenty is the blessing
they enjoy.
Sat. 16th. Accompanied by Mr. Bryant, my
brother and myself
pursued our journey to our brother's,
where we arrived in the evening.
The pleasure we enjoyed on meeting with
a brother, whom we had not
seen for several years, can only be
conceived by those who have exper-
ienced the like sensation.
Sun. 17th. News of our arrival flew like
lightning thro the neigh-
borhood. A meeting was instantly
appointed for us at Mount Pleasant
M. H. A large audience collected to whom
we preached; my Bro. from
"He smote the rock and the waters
gushed out" and myself
from Mark 1:15. The people were very
attentive and an old Methodist
preacher shouted amain.
Mon. 18th. My brothers and myself rode
to Lexington and returned
in the evening.
Tues. 19th. We dined with Capt. Holloway
and returned and spent
the evening with Mr. John Mosely.
Wed. 20th. Attended with my brothers a
meeting at Mt. Pleasant.
Thurs. 21st. Bro. George and myself rode
into Woodford and spent
the evening with Mr. J. Watkins.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 389
Fri. 22nd. Returned by the way of Major
Crittenden's, Lexington,
etc. to my brothers.
Sat. 23rd. Visited Mr. Thos. Mosely and
returned in the evening to
my brother's.
Sun. 24th. Went with my brother to
Elkhorn M. H. and heard Mr.
Saunders Walker preach from Isa.
2:10-11.
Mon. 25th. Visited Mr. Hayden and
returned to my brother's.
Tues. 26th. Dined with Mr. Moore. This
afternoon it turned cool
after a long spell of very warm weather.
Wed. 27th. Attended a meeting at Mr.
Watkins' and heard Mr.
Shackleford preach from Gen. 5:9.
JOURNEY TO THE OHIO.
Thurs. 28th. This and yesterday morning
we have frosts that bite
pretty much. The air continues clear and
the weather very dry. A great
scarcity of water prevails in this
country which is an evil, severely felt
by man and beast.
I now prepared for my journey over the
Ohio. I had got everything
in readiness, my beast shod &c. But
a multitude of thoughts now
crowded into my mind. My brother had
declined going with me over
the Ohio, for want of a beast. Mr.
Sowell had intended to go with me,
but I had heard nothing of him for
sometime. I now expected to be
under the necessity of taking the
journey alone. Now, thought I, if
sickness should seize me in a strange
land, among strange people, who
will administer me aid and comfort? If
the hand of the murderer
should take my life, who will carry the
fatal tidings to my disconsolate
family? If cruel savages should lie in
ambush and deprive me of life,
will anybody do me the friendly office
of laying my mangled body beneath
the silent earth? A number of accidents
may befall; what miseries I may
suffer for want of a companion. At these and such like thoughts I
felt my spirits sink, but calling to
mind the motives that moved me to
take this journey, the providence that
had thus far watched over me,
the promises that were still engaged to
defend me, and the hope I feel
that God would be with me, I was enabled
to cast my care on Him,
hoping in His mercy and claiming His
protection.
I took leave of my brother and family
and in the evening arrived at
Mr. Elisha Wooldridge's; here I had the
happiness to find Mr. Sowell.
He informed me he was ready to start
with me in the morning, for the
northwest side of the Ohio. This proved
like reviving cordial to my sink-
ing spirits.
Fri. 29th. We took an early breakfast
(after paying our devotions to
the Most High) and started. We travelled
about 40 miles and reached
Mr. Jno. Hampton's late in the evening.
Sat. 30th. We rested and refreshed
ourselves. In the evening I
390 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
attended an appointment at old Mr.
Hampton's, which had been made for
me during the day. I preached to a
considerable number of well behaved
hearers from Acts 17:30, 31 and then
returned to Johny Hampton's.
Sun. Oct. 1st. We pursued our journey
taking in our way a quarterly
meeting of the Methodists. Here I had an
opportunity of seeing several
old acquaintances of the ministerial
character, among whom were Bro.
F. Poythress and that amiable and pious
young man, Bro. Kobler. Here
I also met with Bro. McCormick. I spent
the evening with Bro. Kobler
at a Bro. Colman's.
Mon. 2nd. Bro. McCormick, Bro. Teal, Mr.
Sowell and myself set
out for the Ohio. We travelled about 30
miles and reached a little
village called Germantown about 8
o'clock in the evening and took up
with a Mr. Black.
CROSSES THE BEAUTIFUL OHIO.
Tues. 3rd. We pursued our journey and
reached a little town on the
bank of the Ohio about 11 o'clock. From
a high eminence we had a
view of that beautiful country beyond
the river; charmed with its beau-
tiful appearance, I longed to be there.
We took some refreshment at
Augusta, then took boat and about 1
o'clock made the opposite shore.
The Ohio river of all that I ever saw is
the most beautiful stream.
It flows in a deep and gentle current,
is from 1-2 to 3-4 of a mile in
width; it is confined in high banks,
which it seldom if ever overflows.
The adjoining hills are lofty, from
whence a charming view of the river
and low lands presents itself to view.
How delightful will be the scene,
when these banks shall be covered with
towns, these hills with houses,
and this noble stream with the rich
produce of these fertile and fruit-
ful countries.
We rode down the river 3 or 4 miles to
the mouth of Bull Skin
creek, then left the river and pursued a
northwardly route thro a rich
and beautiful country. The land, after
leaving the river, lies high and is
very level. The trees, which are mostly
red and white oak, are the
tallest and most beautiful timber I ever
beheld. The soil appears deep,
clear of stone and wild pea-vine in
abundance. It was very pleasant to
see the deer skipping over the bushes
and the face of the country clad
in a livery of green.
PLAINFIELD, (NOW BETHEL, CLERMONT
COUNTY).
We crossed the waters of Bear creek and
Big Indian and arrived
in the evening at Dunham's town on the
waters of the Poplar Fork
of the East Fork. Dunham's town, or
Plainfield, is about 12 1-2 miles
from the Ohio; the land is fertile and
water good. Here we saw the
fruits of honest industry. Mr. Dunham is
a Baptist minister, who left
Kentucky on account of its being a land
of oppression. He arrived here
last April and since then has reared
several houses, cleared a small
plantation, has a fine field of corn
growing, a number of vines and garden
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 391
vegetables, an excellent field of wheat
and a meadow already green with
the rising timothy. The old man seems to
possess both grace and
talents, with a spirit greatly opposed
to slavery. He thinks that God
will withdraw his spirit from such
countries and persons, who having
the light, resist its dictates.
Wed. 4th. We started from Plainfield
pretty early and pursued a
northwest direction. The country
continues exceeding level except near
the water courses, where it sinks into
deep valleys. The soil in general
is rich, the growth being oak, hickory,
ash, walnut, sugartree, beech &c.
About 1 o'clock we reached the Little
Miami; near this river the lands
appeared to be much better than any we
had yet seen. The low grounds
or bottoms on the river, are vastly rich
and extensive. The river itself
is about 100 yards wide, the water very
pure and clear but rapid. We
crossed the river and rode up the same
about a mile, where we saw
the walls of an old fortification.
AT FRANCIS M CORMICK'S ON THE
LITTLE MIAMI.
We then recrossed the river and arrived
at Bro. McCormick's about
2 o'clock. His situation is most
agreeable and delightful. The river runs
within 50 yards of his house, which
stands on an eminence and com-
mands a beautiful view of the river and
the rising hills on the opposite
side. It would seem incredible to those
unacquainted with the clearness
of these waters to be told, that I stood
in Bro. McCormick's yard and saw
numbers of fish near the opposite bank
of the river; indeed it is no
uncommon thing to see shoals of fish of
an uncommon size and excellent
in their kind sporting themselves in
these rivers.
In Bro. and sister McCormick we found
the christian and the friend.
Their hospitality and kindness seemed to
flow from a generous heart.
Their doors were open to receive us
strangers and their extraordinary
liberality has deeply impressed my mind
with gratitude. Devotion was
here our regular employ. The praises of
God resounded thro the adjoining
groves and it was a pleasing reflection
that the worship of God was
now set up in a place, that but few
years ago was the haunt of savages
and the covert for fowls. The wilderness
becomes a fruitful field and
the thirsty land springs of water. The
grass is green in their meadows
and their fields loaded with golden
grain. May the God whose servant
they have received and whose praises
they celebrate, be their portion in
time and their happiness thro eternity.
AN ANCIENT EARTHWORK.
Thurs. 5th. We got breakfast and started
down the river to see a
Mr. Dunlacy, respecting the location of
our lands. In the course of
our journey I had an opportunity of
viewing more accurately the ancient
wall I mentioned before. I went entirely
around it and observed its form
and dimensions. The body of the fort
seemed to be an exact square,
392 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
fronting the 4 cardinal points and including about 22 acres. Adjoining the main wall is another on the north side resembling a half moon, with a gateway where it joins the other wall at each end. The wall is much mouldered down, but is at the bottom about 20 feet over. At each corner and in the center of each broadside is a gateway about 30 feet wide. Fronting the gate in each broadside and about 40 feet within the wall, is a small amount of about 100 feet in circumference and of the same height of the wall. From the northeast gate two other walls about 30 yards apart extend a considerable distance and then open into a cir- cular form near the river. The ground is firm and dry and water con- venient. The plan appears to have been well devised and the work executed with the utmost regularity, but conceiving it will give a more perfect idea of it, I here subjoin its form. |
|
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Fri. 6th. Mr. Sowell and myself rode to the mouth of Cliff creek and viewed a tract of land belonging to Dr. Turpin. From thence we bent our course up the East Fork to a Mr. MaLot's, where I had appointed to preach in the evening, but the distance being greater than we expected, the road bad and difficult to follow, we did not reach the place till near 8 o'clock. Some of the people were gone, but others had waited pati- ently till we arrived, to whom I preached from Rev. 22:17, but felt so faint thro fatigue and the want of bodily nourishment, for we had not got any dinner, that I felt but little satisfaction. Sat. 7th. Mr. MaLot treated us exceeding kind and when we started, accompanied us some distance and showed us another of those old forts, which so justly excite the admiration of travellers. We travelled down East Fork thro amazing fertile lands and saw two more of those ancient forts; one of which I will as far as I am able briefly describe. |
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory. 393
ANOTHER EXTENSIVE EARTHWORK AT THE MOUTH OF EAST FORK. The Little Miami in these parts, as it generally does, runs from north to south. The East Fork of that river runs generally from east to west and discharges its waters into the Miami about 8 miles from its mouth. In the fork of these rivers is a body of extremely fertile, level land, of about 6 miles in circumference, lying in a kind of triangle, having the Miami on the west, the East Fork on the south and a ridge of high hills on the northeast. About the center of this beautiful level, |
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is a hill about 1-2 a mile long from east to west and 1-2 that distance from north to south. At the east end of this hill (which appears as if it had been actually formed by art) is the body of an old fort, 300 yards each way, lying exactly square, with a gate in each corner and one in each broadside, which appear to have been about 50 feet wide each. The walls of the fort are at the bottom about 30 feet over, but are so decayed by time, that they are but low to what they were once. A man on the outside and another on the inside might perhaps see each other's heads. From the north gate proceed two walls about 100 feet apart and extend 750 yards in length till they strike the Miami river. At the southwest corner gate is a wall and a ditch of about 100 feet in cir- cumference fronting the entrance. From this gate also, proceeds a ditch, |
394 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
which gets deeper as it proceeds
extending about a quarter of a mile
to water, where the ditch or trench
cannot be less than 40 or 50 feet
deep. This trench from its various
crooks and short turns is a great
curiosity and may favor the opinion that
its original invaders (?) were
not acquainted with the use of fire
arms. But the most astonishing
work seems to be the hill above
mentioned and the style of its forti-
fications. There are various avenues
leading to the top of this hill,
appearing as if cut for the purpose. But
the two walls leading from
the western gate of the grand fort seem
most worthy of notice. These
walls are about 100 feet apart,
extending in a direct line up an easy
ascent about a quarter of a mile where
they reach the summit of the
hill. Here they open out into a circular
form and enclose 2 or 3 acres of
ground. Thro this circular wall are
several very narrow gates, as if
intended for only one man to pass at a
time. This fortification is one
of the most astonishing works of the
kind that I ever saw, and is at
at once a striking monument of the
ingenuity and corruptibility of
man.
AT COLUMBIA-RIDE UP THE LITTLE MIAMI.
Sun. 8th. We rode to Columbia to
meeting. Here I saw the most
extensive and luxuriant cornfield I ever
beheld in all my life. The
preacher not coming to his appointment I
preached in his stead from
Ep. 6: 14, 18. We attended another of
his appointments in the after-
noon about 2 or 3 miles out of town and
I preached from 1 Thes. 5 &c.
The people seemed serious and attentive
and after the meeting ended
seemed loth to depart, and some of them
having expressed a wish for
preaching again, I gave notice that I would
preach by the lighting of a
candle. A considerable company attended
and I preached with liberty
from Mark 1: 15, I hope not without some
good effect.
In the interval of our meetings today I
visited a woman who was
supposed to be at the point of death.
When I came in I found her in a
burning fever, but perfectly in her
senses. I sat down by her and asked
her a few questions respecting the state
of her soul and of her prepara-
tion for death. On being asked whether
she thought she would die
she said, with eyes flowing with tears,
she did. "I saw the spirit of
God" said she, "and he told me
I should live 12 days and this is the
last. I saw also the Evil spirit but he
said nothing to me." I went
to prayer with her and left her.
Mon. 9th. We returned to Columbia, where
we had occasion to visit
Mr. Smith, the Baptist minister. We
breakfasted with Mr. Smith and
then returned to Bro. McCormick's. After
we got dinner we started for
the old Chillecothe Indian town, near
the head of the river. We pro-
ceeded as far as Col. Paxton's with whom
we spent the evening.
Tues. 10th. Having sent for Mr. Donnels,
a surveyor of the military
lands, he arrived this morning and we
bargained with him to do ours,
return the works and send us a
certificate in 8 months, for which we
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 395
agreed to give him 1-3 of the land. We
breakfasted at Col. Paxton's,
then rode on to Deerfield, took dinner
and pursued our course and
took up in the evening with a Richard
Kirby. The land thro which we
have passed today has been various; a
considerable part we found to
be thin white oak land, but we found
also some large bodies of fine,
rich, fertile land, well adapted to
farming and excellent for meadow
and the raising of stock. It may not be
amiss here to observe, that there
has not been a frost to bite anything in
this country, till this morning.
Hence it appears that this climate, tho
about 120 miles north from
Lexington, is not near as cold, for when
I left those parts the corn
blades in many places were entirely
killed. But on my arrival northwest
of the Ohio I was surprised to find not
the smallest symptom of frost.
To account for this surprizing
circumstance, it may be observed that the
soil of this country is a little
inclined to sand which is naturally warm.
It is also generally very clear of
stone, whereas Kentucky, being without
sand and at the same time has everywhere
a bed of stone a little under
the surface, makes it (as I suppose)
subject to frost, and those sudden
chills, which are so common in that
country. During last winter, the
wheat in Kentucky was almost entirely
killed, while the wheat in this
country grew and produced a fine crop.
WAYNESVILLE- PRAIRIES ON THE LITTLE
MIAMI-OLD CHILLICOTHE.
Wed. 11th. We started pretty early,
baited at Martin Keever's and
then rode on to Waynesville. This little
town is situate on the western
bank of the Little Miami. The lots are
sold to none but actual settlers,
and tho it was only settled last spring
about 14 families are already
here. They have the advantages of good
air, good water and good land.
They are also on an equality; pride and
slavery are equally strangers;
industry is seen in all, and the
consequences are, they are happy. We
are lodged here with a Mr. Heighway, an
emigrant from England, who
with a number of his country people,
suffered inconceivable hardships in
getting to this country. It was curious
to see their elegant furniture and
silver plate glittering in a small smoky
cabin. We have today travelled
thro a fine country; the land is
extremely rich and well watered.
Thurs. 12th. Mr. Heighway after
compelling us to take breakfast
with him, accompanied us some distance
and put us into the right way
to Old Chillecothe. About 1 o'clock we
were saluted with a view of
one of those beautiful plains, which are
known in this country by the
name of pararas. Here we could see many
miles in a straight direction,
and not a tree or bush to obstruct the
sight. The grass in the parara,
we found higher than our heads on
horseback as we rode thro it. After
riding about 2 miles thro this
enchanting parara we arrived on the spot,
where the old town of Chillicothe stood,
of which scarcely a vestige
now remains. We saw a few slabs and
something like an old breastwork
but so decayed and covered with grass
that it was scarcely discernable.
396 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
The stumps of some gate posts were still to be seen, but the houses were all destroyed, having been burned a few years ago, by the order of the commander of an expedition against the Indians. We sat us down on the green grass and ate our dinner of bread and cheese on the very spot where a few years ago, the bloody savages held their grand councils. While we rested here there came a man to us, and informed us that himself and his two brothers (who lived about a mile from the place) had found 60 beehives within a mile and a half of their house; 3 of which they had taken the week before and had gotten 14 or 15 gallons of honey. The land about this town, I think is equal for wheat and grass to any that I ever saw. Having now travelled 60 or 70 miles from the Ohio, we determined here to put a period to our travels north- |
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DEERFIELD (NOW SOUTH LEBANON). Fri. 12th. We took in our way the town of Deerfield. It has 30 or 40 families residing in it. It is a new town, having only been settled since spring 12 mo. It is something surprizing to see with what rapidity settlements are made and towns erected in this country. This I suppose is owing to two causes: (1st) the fertility of the land, which induces new adventurers to settle there and (2nd) that excellent regulation which shuts out slavery; this induces the mechanic and the manufacturer, who choose to settle in towns to carry on their different employments. 0, what a country will this be at a future day! What field of delights! What a garden of spices! What a paradise of pleasures! when these forests shall be cultivated and the gospel of Christ spread through this rising republic, unshackled by the power of kings and religious oppression on the one hand and slavery, that bane of true Godliness, on the other. We crossed the river at Deerfield and rode on 6 or 7 miles to Col. Paxton's. Sat. 14th. We took breakfast and set forward and reached Bro. McCormick's about 11 o'clock. After resting ourselves an hour or two, we rode down the river to Mr. Smallie's and got some old corn to take with us thro the wilderness to Scioto, where we intend to proceed on Monday next. SUNDAY MEDITATIONS. Sun. 15th. Was a fine pleasant day. I enjoyed good health, but having no appointment to preach and there being no meeting near I spent the day at Bro. McCormick's. But the thought of being all the day idle made some serious impressions on my mind, especially in a country where my labors probably might have a good effect. I walked into the woods in the afternoon and on the ruins of an ancient fortress con- templated the vanity of human grandeur. Here are spacious walls, deep ditches, some straight, others circular, and all manifesting such a degree |
Tours Into Kentucky and the
Northwest Territory. 397
of regularity as really surprised me.
But where are now the performers
of these mighty works? Alas! They long
since sunk into silence and
those who perhaps made the earth to
tremble are now mixed with their
mother dust. May that wisdom ever be
mine, which teaches her children
to lay up here, their treasure beyond
the reach of human corruption.
JOURNEY FROM THE LITTLE MIAMI TO THE
SCIOTO.
Mon. 16th. After fixing up, Bro.
McCormick, Bro. Howard, Mr.
Sowell and myself started for the
Scioto. We travelled up the East
Fork of the Little Miami about 12 miles
and encamped in the woods.
The lands on the East Fork are very
rich, lie well, are of a soft light
nature and when cleared, easy to
cultivate.
Tues. 17th. We rose a little before day,
fed our horses, and as soon
as it began to be light pursued our
journey. We arrived about 8 o'clock
at a little town called Williamsburg,
settled last spring by 8 or 9
families. Here we got breakfast, then
set forward pursuing a course N.
75 east thro an amazing level and
sometimes swampy country. This
however as I was informed is the only
swamp worth mentioning in this
country. It lies about midway between
the Miami and Scioto, on the
waters of a creek called White Oak. The
growth is mostly gum, maple
white oak &c. After leaving the
waters of White Oak, we fell in upon
the waters of the Rocky Fork of Paint
Creek. Here night overtook us
and we encamped.
Wed. 18th. We started as soon as we
could well see and about 1
o'clock reached a house on the bank of
Paint creek. This house is the
first we have seen for upwards of 40
miles. Here we stopped and got
a little refreshment. Paint creek is a
pure, clear stream and at this
place is about 100 yards wide. It seems
to be a fine stream for fish, as
we stood on the bank and saw a fine
shoal of them near the opposite
shore, which from the distance we saw
them, must have been very
large.
At this house I saw a curiosity; it was
the under part of the
beak of a fowl called a pelican. It was
about 18 inches long and 9
inches broad; underneath this was a
natural bag, which when the bird
was killed held about a peck. The whole
together seemed to be a
near resemblance of a fisherman's
skiming net; and this bird being one
of those, which feed on fish, it is more
than probable, that this net is
used in catching them. On the bank of
Paint creek I saw cut in the
bark of a beech tree the letters,
T L & T D 1750.
From this circumstance it is evident
some white man had been there
as long as 47 years ago. But whether
English or French, whether trader
or prisoner, we cannot now determine. We
rode down Paint creek
about 20 miles, and for beauty and
fertility it exceeds anything that
398 Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.
ever my eyes beheld. Here we travelled
over ancient walls, ditches,
monuments &c, at the sight of which
a considerate mind feels lost in
silent contemplation. We arrived a
little in the night at Chillicothe town
and took up at Umpston tavern.
CHILLICOTHE.
Thurs. 19th. The morning of this day
till about 11 o"clock, I em-
ployed in surveying this newly erected
town. It stands on a beautiful
level, rich and convenient spot. The
Scioto, a beautiful, clear, gentle
river and capable of an extensive
navigation, waters it on the east side.
Paint creek, which is also navigable a
considerable distance washes its
western borders. The streets extending
from the Scioto to Paint creek
in a direct line are about a mile in
length. Again there are cross
streets, which cross the others at right
angles. Thus situated it is not
only a beautiful, but is also a most
convenient place for a town, and
if it be considered as situated in the
heart of a rich and fertile country,
near the center of the limits pointed
out for a state, and on one of
the finest rivers in the western country
for its navigation, it seems evi-
dent that it will at a time not far distant
be a place of very great
consequence. The inhabitants of this
town (as I was informed) amount
to upwards of 100 families, which at a
moderate computation will ex-
ceed 1,000 souls. This has been effected
in about 12 months. If these
be the fruits of a free government may
despotism and slavery be ban-
ished from the world and the blessings
of liberty universally prevail.
Here I saw and had a little conversation
with some of the savage
tribes, who had come to town on a
friendly visit.
RETURN TO THE OHIO.
About 1 o'clock, Mr. Sowell and myself
after parting with Bros.
McCormick and Howard, set out on our
return, travelled about 24
miles and encamped in the woods.
Fri. 20th. Having taken a violent cold I
got sick. An hour or
two before day it began to rain. We were
in a wild wilderness and
had unfortunately lost our way and got
off from the road. When
day came on, we started and in about two
hours had the good fortune
to find the road. About 12 o'clock we
reached a house, wet, weary and
sick. We stopped, dried ourselves, took
a little coffee and pursued our
journey. We reached another house in the
evening but could not pre-
vail with the unfeeling woman (the only
one of this character I saw
in this country) to let us have a bed;
so I lay on the floor but rested
poorly.
Sat. 21st. We rose and started, the
weather still rainy. We soon
got wet, but called at a house, got
breakfast and dried ourselves. We
then set forward and reached the Ohio,
about 2 o'clock.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 399
DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY NORTHWEST OF
THE OHIO.
Having now travelled between 3 and 400
miles thro this country, I
think I can form a tolerable judgment of
the same and will as concisely
as possible, give a general description
of the same before I leave it.
The land naturally claims the first
place. Bordering on the rivers, the
land exceeds description. Suffice it to
say that the soil is amazing
rich, not subject to overflow, unbroken
with gulches and gutters, as
level as a bowling plain and vastly
extensive. Leaving the rivers a
high hill skirts the low ground. Here
the land is still amazing fertile,
covered with a heavy growth of timber,
such as white and red oak,
hickory, ash, beech, sugar tree, walnut,
buckeye &c. Here a number of
small streams take their rise; then
gently creep along thro the winding
valleys, and in their course these
winding streams, form a great quan-
tity of excellent meadow land. These
streams uniting increase their
consequence; the meadows enlarge and
extend themselves, till they dis-
charge their crystal streams into the
rivers.
As to mountains, there are properly
speaking none; there are how-
ever high hills from which a beautiful
view of the adjoining country
presents itself. There is generally but
little stone. Quarries of free-
stone are plenty on the Scioto and
limestone in many places. The land
is generally very light, soft and easy
to cultivate. Indian corn grows
to great perfection; wheat, oats, rye
&c thrive amazing well. All kinds
of roots, such as potatoes, turnips, and
the like grow extremely well.
Cotton also grows very well and hemp and
flax come to great per-
fection.
Grass of the meadow kind grows all over
this country and white
clover and blue grass grow spontaneously
wherever the land is cleared.
A country so famous for grass must of
course be excellent for all kinds
of stock. Here I saw the finest beef and
mutton, that I ever saw fed
on grass. Hogs also increase and fatten
in the woods in a most sur-
prizing manner. Exclusive of tame
cattle, great numbers of wild beasts
as bears, buffalo, deer, elk &c
shelter in these immense woods. The
rivers produce an infinite number of
fish; besides geese, ducks and the
like, turkies, pheasants, partridges
&c are produced in great plenty and
get exceeding fat on the produce of the
forest. Honey itself is not
wanting to make up the rich variety.
Incredible numbers of bees have
found their way to this delightful
region and in vast quantities deposit
their honey in the trees of the woods,
so that it is not an uncommon
thing for the people to take their wagon
and team and return loaded
with honey.
The water of this country is generally
very good The rivers are
clear as crystal and the springs are
bold, good and in considerable plenty.
The air appears clear and serene not
subject to dampness and vapors.
which render a country unwholesome.
Neither does it appear subject to
400 Ohio Arch. and Hist.
Society Publications.
those sudden changes and alterations
which are so pernicious to health
and prejudicial to fruits and
vegetables. When these things are duly
considered the country which possesses
these natural advantages surely
merits notice. But when we recollect
this country is the asylum of lib-
erty; that cruelty has not stained the
country with blood; that freedom
and equality is the precious boon of its
inhabitants, and that this is to be
the case in the future, surely this of
all countries is most worthy of our
attention and esteem.
AGAIN IN KENTUCKY.
Sun. 22nd. We pursued our journey,
breakfasted at Rouse's,
crossed the Licking and the Blue Licks
and arrived in the evening at
Tho. Howard's.
Mon. 23rd. We passed thro Paris, the
county town of Bourbon,
reached Lexington about 3 o'clock and my
brother's about daylight dis-
appearing.
Tues. 24th. We now prepared with all
possible dispatch for our
journey home. My brothers started this
morning for the south side of
Kentucky river. But I having some
business in Woodford went thither,
did my business, saw Mr. Sowell (with
whom I parted last evening at
Lexington) informed him we proposed
leaving the country Sunday next.
We appointed to meet Sunday morning at
Ch. Smith's and I returned to
my brother's.
Wed. 25th. Took leave of my brother's
family and left with an
hope of shortly seeing my own. I met
with my Bro. George at my friend
J. Bryant's where we tarried the night.
Thurs. 26th. Set out accompanied with my
Bro. and Mr. Bryant,
rode to Stanford, the county town of
Lincoln. Here I parted with my
brother and Mr. Bryant and rode on to
Mr. Thos. Hutchinson's with
whom I spent the evening.
Fri. 27th. Pursued my journey to Mr.
Renfro's, where I arrived
about 11 o'clock. Here I again met with
my brother George S. Smith,
with Mr. Forbes a surveyor, prepared to
survey my lands.
Sat. 28th. We set out before sunrise to
run out my lines. Mr.
Lafon and myself carried the chain. It
was nearly sunset when we com-
pleted our work, after being closely
employed almost the whole day and
what, thro fatigue and want of
refreshment, I was so exhausted that I
was almost ready to faint. After getting
a little nourishment I felt re-
vived. I now had the consolation to
find, that the different objects of my
journey to this country were now happily
accomplished; consequently I
find my thoughts occupied with a
pleasing hope of a speedy return to my
family and friends in Virginia. Our Bro.
George S. Smith now took
leave of us to return home.
Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest
Territory. 401
THE JOURNEY HOMEWARD.
Sun. 29th. We now fix up and about 9
o'clock set our faces toward
home. At Smith's we met with Mr. Sowall.
We travelled on together
and reached Gollett's Station in the
evening.
Mon. 30th. Pursued our journey being now
joined by Peter Mosely
of Buckingham and three Jones' of
Campbell. We breakfasted at Bal-
linger's and encamped in Cumberland
Canebrake.
Tues. 31st. We set out pretty early and
reached the Big Spring in
Powell's Valley.
Wed. 1st. Nov. Started early,
breakfasted at the foot of Clinch
mountain and reached Roger's tavern.
Thurs. 2d. We traveled pretty hard and
reached Yancey's.
Fri. 3d. We passed Abingdon and reached
Greenway's.
Sat. 4th. Left our lodgings pretty
early, breakfasted at the sign of
the Blue Ball and took up in the evening
at Akinson near the head of
the Holstein. Here we met a company of
Virginians, who (not at all
to the honor of their state), drank
freely, swore lustily and when we
retired to rest, betook themselves to
cards, which considerably disturbed
our rest.
Sun. 5th. Not being able to sleep for
noise, we rose before day
and started. The morning was pleasant
and warm, but about sunrise it
clouded. The blustering winds roared
through the mountains, it soon
began to rain, then to snow which it
continued to do briskly for about
an hour and then rather abated. Breakfasted at Ingledove's; lodged
at Sayre's.
Mon. 6th. Was cold and blustering. We
had several snows with
piercing wind. Fed at Peak creek,
crossed New river about 1 o'clock,
dined at Haydon's and rode to Capt.
Craig's.
Tues. 7th. Was very cold. We started
about the break of day,
crossed the Allegenia mountain,
breakfasted at Mrs. Rot's, dined at
McClannahan's, and rode on to McCrary's.
Wed. 8th. We crossed the Blue Ridge just
after sunrise, breakfasted
at Goose creek and rode on to New
London.
Thurs. 9th. Breakfasted at Priestley's
and reached Flood's in the
evening.
Fri. 10th. About 1 o'clock in the
afternoon we arrived at Bro.
Gatch's.
Sat. 11th. We left Bro. Gatch's after
breakfast and reached Mr. Mc-
Laurin's.
Sun. 12th. We pursued our journey and in
the evening I had the
inexpressible happiness of meeting with
my family, finding them well and
no misfortune happening to them in my
absence. For their safe preser-
vation and my own may the Lord have
unremitted praise.
Vol. XV1.-26.
TOURS INTO KENTUCKY
AND THE NORTHWEST
TERRITORY.
Three Journals by the Rev. James Smith of
Powhatan County, Va.,
1783-1795-1797.
SKETCH OF REV. JAMES SMITH
BY JOSIAH MORROW, LEBANON, OHIO.
The writer of the following journals was
born in Powhatan
county, Virginia, September 17, 1757,
and died near Columbia,
in the Northwest Territory, July 28,
1800. He resided in his
native county nearly all his life, his
removal to the north side of
the Ohio having been made less than two
years before his death.
His paternal ancestors, it is believed,
came from England.
The first of them of whom we have any
account was his grand-
father, George Smith, of whom there is a
tradition that, when a
youth, he moved from the eastern coast
lands of the colony of
Virginia to the valley of the James
river, taking with him only
his buffalo robe, gun and tomahawk. He
was a hunter, but he
became a man of wealth and left to his
son, Thomas, a large
landed estate, situated in Powhatan and
Chesterfield counties,
a mile or two from the James river, and
about twenty miles above
Richmond.
Thomas Smith was also a wealthy man and
was able to leave
to each of his six children a good farm
and a number of slaves.
He was three times married and by each
marriage had one son
and one daughter. His third wife was
Mrs. Margaret Guerrant,
of Huguenot descent; her maiden name was
Trabue, and she
was the mother of James. Strangely as it
seems to us, the two
elder sons were each christened George,
and each had for his
middle name the maiden name of his
mother. The eldest was
George Rapin (or Rapeen); the second,
George Stovall. The
eldest, however, was familiarly known at
home as Mill-pond
George, from the mill-pond near his
birth place. In his first
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