Ohio History Journal

TOURS INTO KENTUCKY AND THE NORTHWEST

TERRITORY.

Three Journals by the Rev. James Smith of Powhatan County, Va.,

1783-1795-1797.

SKETCH OF REV. JAMES SMITH

BY JOSIAH MORROW, LEBANON, OHIO.

The writer of the following journals was born in Powhatan

county, Virginia, September 17, 1757, and died near Columbia,

in the Northwest Territory, July 28, 1800. He resided in his

native county nearly all his life, his removal to the north side of

the Ohio having been made less than two years before his death.

His paternal ancestors, it is believed, came from England.

The first of them of whom we have any account was his grand-

father, George Smith, of whom there is a tradition that, when a

youth, he moved from the eastern coast lands of the colony of

Virginia to the valley of the James river, taking with him only

his buffalo robe, gun and tomahawk. He was a hunter, but he

became a man of wealth and left to his son, Thomas, a large

landed estate, situated in Powhatan and Chesterfield counties,

a mile or two from the James river, and about twenty miles above

Richmond.

Thomas Smith was also a wealthy man and was able to leave

to each of his six children a good farm and a number of slaves.

He was three times married and by each marriage had one son

and one daughter. His third wife was Mrs. Margaret Guerrant,

of Huguenot descent; her maiden name was Trabue, and she

was the mother of James. Strangely as it seems to us, the two

elder sons were each christened George, and each had for his

middle name the maiden name of his mother. The eldest was

George Rapin (or Rapeen); the second, George Stovall. The

eldest, however, was familiarly known at home as Mill-pond

George, from the mill-pond near his birth place. In his first

(348)

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory. 349

journey into Kentucky, James Smith was accompanied by his

half-brother, George R. and they visited their half-brother,

George S. who had removed to Jessamine county, Ky., about

1780. In his journals James designates each half-brother simply

as 'Bro. George." George R., as well as James, kept a journal of

his travels in the western country, but it was unfortunately de-

stroyed in the burning of the home of his son, Gen. George R.

Smith, founder of Sedalia, Mo.

The family of Thomas Smith were deeply religious and

the three sons all became preachers. The father had belonged

to the Church of England, but when the Baptists first preached

in the neighborhood of their home, the two elder sons were con-

verted to that faith and became Baptist exhorters and preachers.

Later, when James was about ten years old, Methodism was first

promulgated in Virginia and the Smith family (except the two

Baptist sons) were among the first fruits of the Wesleyan re-

formation in Virginia. The father passed out of the established

church and became one of the people called Methodists, and the

conference of 1780 was held at his house.

James Smith became a preacher of "The Republican Metho-

dist Church" organized in 1792 by James O'Kelly, after his

unsuccessful attempt to limit the power of the bishop in the

Methodist Episcopal Church. The Republican Methodists num-

bered several thousand in Virginia and North Carolina, but they

were absorbed into other movements, especially into that called

"Christians." James Smith seems never to have been a preacher

in the M. E. Church, but it is believed by his descendants that in

his later years he contemplated uniting with the larger body of

Methodists and that this was not done on account of his early

death. His journal shows that in his last years he was intimately

associated and maintained the most friendly relations with the

pioneer preachers of the M. E. Church on both sides of the Ohio.

Unlike most of the early Methodist preachers who were poor,

he was a man of means, and had the care of a large plantation

and of negro servants, but he continued until the last to preach

the gospel whenever the opportunity was presented, whether in a

church, by the wayside in his journeys, or at the cabin of the

settler.

350       Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

The reader of the journals of this Christian man will notice

that he had no scruples against traveling on Sunday. Usually he

pursued his journey on Sunday as on other days. He would

preach on Sunday when he had the opportunity and continue

his journey after the sermon. On Sunday morning he em-

barked on the Kanawha and the same day left the boat with a

guide and visited the great curiosity of the burning springs,

where he flashed gunpowder to ignite the escaping gas. His

views on the proper observance of Sunday were probably im-

bibed in early life when his parents were members of the Epis-

copal church.

Though he inherited slaves and was himself a slave holder

his soul was deeply stirred by the injustice and cruelties which

he deemed inseparable from the institution of slavery. He pro-

nounced slavery "the present disgrace and the future scourge

of America." In all the writings of American abolitionists of

the period preceding the civil war there is to be found no ex-

pression of deeper detestation of negro slavery than in the

journal of this Virginia slave holder. His abhorrence of the

institution is fully expressed in his reflections on crossing the

Ohio at the new town of Cincinnati and landing in a territory

forever dedicated to freedom, written on Sunday, November 15,

1795, six years before the birth of Garrison and forty years

before Birney began to print The Philanthropist at Cincinnati.

He freed his slaves before leaving Virginia. His half-brother

who was his companion on two of his tours also espoused the

anti-slavery cause in Kentucky and freed the greater portion

of his slaves, numbering about forty, before his death in 1820.

After his second tour north of the Ohio he determined to

remove to that country and he purchased of a neighbor a tract

in the Virginia Military District lying on the east side of the

Little Miami and at the mouth of Caesar's creek in what is now

Warren county. The tract was surveyed to contain 1,6662/3 acres

but was found to contain 2,000. He then bade a final adieu

to the home of his ancestors and started with his family for the

land of freedom. He was accompanied by his brother-in-law,

Philip Gatch, and his family. Gatch, who was also a Methodist

preacher and a strong opponent of slavery, became a member

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory. 351

of the first constitutional convention of Ohio and an associate

judge of Clermont county. He, as well as Smith, emancipated his

slaves before leaving Virginia. Two of Smith's former slaves

accompanied him to Ohio, one of whom, "Uncle Ned," became

the owner of a farm of 200 acres in Warren county on which he

lived to a good old age.

The emigrants started for the west about September 26,

1798 and the journey was by the Kanawha route. To reach the

Kanawha wagons were used, the women and younger children

riding in what was called the "stage wagon." When the top

of a mountain was reached a large sapling was cut and at-

tached to the wagon, and dragging behind, it operated as a

break in the descent. Ned, the freed negro, was the driver of

one of the wagons.

The Kanawha was reached near Gauley mountain and the

emigrants embarked in flat boats. On reaching the Ohio at

Point Pleasant four of the men left the boats and taking the

horses came down the Ohio by land. The boats were delayed by

low water and did not reach Columbia until November 7, the

journey from Powhatan county occuping six weeks.

The land on the Little Miami Mr. Smith had purchased was

an uncleared wilderness and he took up his temporary abode on

a farm not far from Columbia. He did not live to see his family

established on the land he had purchased for a home. He died of

a fever in the summer of 1800 before he had reached the age

of 43. He was about six feet in height and of slender build.

No portrait of him is in existence.

In 1779 before he was quite twenty-two James Smith mar-

ried Miss Elizabeth Porter, who was then but little past sixteen.

To them were born nine children, who, named in the order of

their birth, were: Sarah (Mrs. Ichabod B. Halsey), Thomas,

John  W., Elizabeth   (Mrs. Burwell Goode), Magdalene

(Mrs. Robert Sale), Martha (Mrs. William O'Neall), Judith

(Mrs. Hiram Browne), Cynthia (died unmarried), and George J.

The last named was the only child born on the north side of the

Ohio. He became a distinguished lawyer at Lebanon, was

speaker of the Ohio Senate and for seventeen years judge of

the court of common pleas.

352       Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

The widow and children of James Smith resided on the land

at the mouth of Caesar's creek and several of the children and

their descendants have had their homes in Warren county. Among

the grandsons, of James Smith were Hon. John Quincy Smith,

of Clinton county; Judge James M. Smith of Lebanon; Judge

James S. Halsey and Judge James S. Goode, of Springfield;

J. Kelley O'Neall, of Lebanon, and Ignatius Brown, of Indianap-

olis.

James Smith kept journals on his western tours in which he

wrote down from day to day incidents of travel, descriptions of

the country and of curiosities, and at times his reflections. The

three original manuscripts have been kept together and care-

fully preserved by his descendants and they furnish evidence

that the traveler was not only a close observer but a good pen-

man. Two or three copies of the journals have been taken,

one of which was carefully made in the law office of his grand-

sons, J. M. and J. E. Smith at Lebanon in 1877, when only a few

words of the originals had become illegible. The first publica-

tion of the journals is now made from this copy. While collect-

ing materials for "The Winning of the West," Theodore Roose-

velt found a manuscript copy of the journals in Col. Durrett's

famous historical library of Louisville, "the most complete in the

world on all subjects connected with Kentucky history," and

in footnotes to his valuable historical work, Mr. Roosevelt makes

several references to these manuscripts and also mentions them

in his preface.

I.

JOURNEY FROM POWHATAN COUNTY, VIRGINIA, TO KENTUCKY-

1783.

[The year in which this journey was made is not known with

certainty. The traveler, while carefully recording the day of

the week and of the month each day of his journey, neglected

to put down the year in any place. The copy of the journal in

the possession of the Smith family at Lebanon, which was made

under the direction of the late Judge James M. Smith, has "About

1785" written in an upper corner of the first page. On the last

page of the original manuscript of this journal there is written

in the handwriting of the traveler, "J. Smith, April 1786, Pow-

hatan, Virginia"; this is believed to give the time when the

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         353

traveler wrote out a fair copy of his journal from the original

notes. As the journey had been commenced on Wednesday, Oc-

tober 1st and concluded, December 21st, it was assumed that it

was probably made the preceding year, that is, 1785. While hav-

ing a transcript made for the Ohio Archaeological and Historical

Society I found that the days of the week set opposite the days

of the month are not those of 1785, but are those of the years

1783, 1788 and 1794. As the tour seems almost certainly to have

been made previous to 1786, I have given 1783 as the year of the

journey, and this date has the approval of Mr. John E. Smith,

of Lebanon. James Smith in 1783 was twenty-six years old.]-

J. M.

Having long had the desire to see that famed western country, to wit

Kentucky, and conscious to myself that I should never rest well satisfied

till I did see it, occasioned me to fix a determination if God should spare

me to travel to that far distant territory, fully to satisfy my restless

curiosity and also to enable me the more effectually to determine con-

cerning my future proceedings. - The time having at length arrived when

we had appointed to start (Bro. George and myself) I accordingly fixed

and left home about 3 o'clock in the afternoon on Wednesday the 1st

day of October. I came to Bro. George's that night in order to start from

there in the morning.

Thursday 2nd. Bro. George and myself set out about 11 o'clock; we

rode on slowly and reached Bro. Peter Guerrant's about 10 at night.

Fri. 3rd. We started about 12 from Bro. Peter Guerrant's and

arrived at Bro. R Moseley's about sunset.

Sat. 4th. We lay by, and Bro. George having an appointment,

preached accordingly to a small tho well behaved congregation. After

meeting we fixed such of our things as were out of order that nothing

might prevent our early starting in the morning.

Sun. 5th. We started from Robert Moseley's and came to Main-

yard's church; here also Bro. George had appointed to preach, which

he did, but the auditory (tho small) behaved extremely bad so that the

preaching seemed to have but little effect. -After preaching we rode on

for 8 miles to Wm. Bradley's in the upper end of Buckingham, who

insisted on Bro. George's preaching again in the evening which he

complied with. I was surprized to see so many people collect with so

short notice, the greater part of whom seemed to possess the inestimable

treasure of God's love, tho as to the riches of this world their part

appeared to be very small.

Mon. 6th. We set out about 8 o'clock; here we were overtaken by

John Moss so that we were now (including Manuel) four in number.

We reached Mr. Stovall's about 12 where we got some refreshment

both for ourselves and horses and afterwards rode on to Stephen

Sorrow's.

Vol. XVI.-23.

354         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

THE PEAKS AT NEW LONDON.

Tues. 7th. We started from Stephen Sorrow's pretty early and about

10 o'clock passed thro New London. This town's situation is high, from

hence a most beautiful view of those remarkable mountains called the

Peaks presents itself to the curious beholder; from hence also the cloud-

capped summits of the lofty ridge extending itself in a continued chain

from south to north renders the curiosity still more agreeable and delight-

ful. We pushed on and took up camp in the woods near the head of

them. About 10 o'clock at night it began to rain and continued raining

all night attended with dreadful hard wind which occasioned us a very

disagreeable night's lodging.

Wed. 8th. The wind ceased a little in the morning and we set for-

ward. But before we had rode far the dreadfullest storm came on that

I ever rode thro in my life; the amazing quantity of trees that were

continually falling around us rendered our riding extremely dangerous.

We were at length constrained to call at a house where we tarried till

the wind ceased when we then again set forward, but we had not gone

far before the wind arose again which was the occasion of our having

a very unpleasant ride. But at length we safely arrived at a house on

Glade creek where we stayed the night.

THE BIG LICK - A BOILING SPRING.

Thurs. 9th. The wind having ceased, the weather became clear and

calm when we again started from our lodgings and soon after passed

the Big Lick (so called). Tho its present situation appears to have more

resemblance of a pond than a Lick being fed by the brackish waters

causing it to be a continual pond both summer and winter which I

suppose was the cause of so great a resort of cattle in former times.

For, if a person may be allowed to judge from the appearance of this

place, he must allow that many thousand ton of earth have been carried

from hence by wild creatures before the settlement of the country, it

being considerable lower than the common surface of the earth and the

water in many parts of a considerable depth. Its extent I suppose is

above a quarter of a mile in length and half that distance in width.

It is fabled of this place that it had the property of infecting those

that are much about it with the ague, for which cause strangers are

not desirous of making any tarry (or as little as possible) about the

place.

We rode on about 15 miles forward and another curiosity presented

itself to our view. In the low grounds near the head of the Roanoak

river we came to a large creek to appearance (tho nothing but a spring

branch) in riding up which about 300 yards we came to the head,

which is no other than a perfect boiling spring arising out of a flat

part of the earth, and as clear as crystal (it being of the limestone

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory. 355

kind) which I fully believe affords water more than sufficient for a

large merchant mill. We rode on about 3 miles farther and took up

camp in the woods near the head of Roanoak.

Fri. 10th. We started early and soon came to the spring head of

Roanoak river. We then ascended the Allegenia mountain and after

passing this huge chain of inaccessible mountains bid adieu to all the

eastern waters. We rode on thro a barren and broken country and

arrived at New River in the afternoon. This river is about 300 yards

over, as we were informed, and is exceeding furious and rapid; there

is at this crossing both a ferry and ford, but the water being fuller

than usual rendered it very deep fording, however we being unacquainted

with the depth of the water put in to ford it, but the water being both

very deep and strong we were apprehensive we had not hit the ford

and so turned about and went in at another place, but to no better

purpose for the water was nearly up to the saddle skirts the greater

part of the way. But we pushed forward and happily reached the

western shore thinking ourselves well off with only wet legs and feet.

We rode about 3 miles forward and took up at Coles Tavern.

Sat. 11th. We rode about 35 miles and took up in the evening at

Thompson's Tavern.

Sun. 12th. We rode thro the upper end of both Montgomery and

Washington counties and in traveling down Holstein passed thro some

tolerable good land. We took up in the evening at a Mr. Fendley's,

who used us extremely well.

DANGER FROM INDIANS.

Mon. 13th. Mr. Fendley having just returned from Kentucky, gave

us the following information. That some Indian traders at the Chickey-

mogey nation had sent express to Col. Martin, superintendent of Indian

affairs, residing at the long islands on Holstein informing him that a

body of Indians in number about 150 had started from the nation, and

it was conjectured that their destination was either for the Kentucky

road or the Cumberland settlement. That the like information had

been despatched to Col. Ben Logan at Kentucky. In consequence of

which Col. Logan had ordered a body of 150 men to guard the road

as far as Cumberland mountain. Mr. Fendley informed us further

that a considerable number of horses had been stolen on the Kentucky

road and that one company just before the one he came with had lost

-     and several other companies had lost horses likewise.

On receiving the above information we judged it advisable to collect

as large a company as we could and accordingly appointed the Thursday

following to rendezvous at the Block-house; by which time we judged

a considerable body would be collected together. We then started from

Mr. Findley's and took up at Tho. Caldwell's about a mile beyond

Washington Court-House.

356         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

Tues. 14th. We started late, traveling slow and took up the night

with Messrs. Fowler and Bray where they had lay encamped about 3

weeks waiting for the rest of their company.

Wed. 15th. We lay by all day in order to rest our horses and

provide ourselves with necessaries to carry us thro the wilderness and

accordingly got about 30 lb. of flour, 1-2 bushel corn-meal, 3 bushels

of oats, and having provided ourselves thus determined to start early

in the morning for the Block-house.

Thurs. 16th. We started pretty early and arrived at the Block-house

about 1 or 2 o'clock, but we found ourselves altogether disappointed

as to finding company for not a man was there traveling to Kentucky,

neither could we hear of any that were before. However we pushed

forward and in the evening overtook Mr. S. Taylor with whom we

encamped about 4 miles above Mockerson Gap.

CLEAR WATERS OF THE CLINCH - POWELL'S MOUNTAIN.

Fri. 17th. Thro neglect having omitted stretching our tent and

having made our fire in an open place, when we arose in the morning

our bed covering was as wet with the dew as if a small shower of rain

had fallen on it. My head seemed much clogged up but as yet I felt

no other bad effect. We fixed off towards Clinch and rode up the same

about 2 miles. The water of this river is the clearest that I ever saw;

in riding along up the river we could with perfect plainness see fish

which I suppose were several feet under water, and the obttom, which

I suppose was 8 or 10 feet deep, was plain to be seen. We traveled on

in an exceeding bad road and about 1 o'clock we made a stop to let

our horses feed. I then turned out a hunting and ascended a very

high mountain which fatigued me very much. On my return I was

immediately taken unwell with a fever which increased all the afternoon.

Nevertheless I pursued my journey and about the middle of the afternoon

crossed Powell's mountain which is the worst both for length and steep-

ness that we have hitherto passed. After passing this 6 or 7 miles we

were again obstructed in our passage by another lesser mountain. Tho

exceeding steep and rocky we without much difficulty ascended. But

the descent being much steeper than the ascent and likewise much

rockier, night having overtaken us and it being very dark, we were in the

utmost danger of being dashed to pieces. But at length [made] a very

dangerous and disagreeable passage in safety. We arrived at the foot

of the mountain where we encamped. We had not been long lay down

before it began to rain and continued raining the greater part of the

night.

Sat. 18th. was a close, foggy, drizzley morning; however we started

and in a little time arrived at the Valley Station; we there made a halt

hoping the weather would break; here we also refreshed ourselves and

horses, but seeing no likelyhood of the weather breaking we again set

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         357

forward in order to overtake the company before. We had not been

long set out before it set in raining very hard which continued the

greater part of the day. Nevertheless we pushed on and overtook the

company about an hour by sun at night. But riding thro the rain threw

me again into a fever with which I was very sick all night.

SICK IN THE WILDERNESS.

Sun. 19th. was still cloudy and raw, and I was also still very unwell

after one of the most disagreeable night's lodging that I ever had in

my life, for the ground being wet, all our bedding wet, the wind all

night blowing exceeding hard and either rain or snow frequently beating

in upon us was the cause of my being seized with a shivering ague, which

continued till the middle of the day. I then laid down on the ground and

covered myself thick with clothes (the company having stopped to

feed their horses). But a severe fever coming on caused me to throw

off the clothes, but the fever still rising soon rendered it difficult for

me either to go or stand upon my feet. The time was now come when

I was to see trouble, for being taken so violent I had little expectation

of ever surviving it, even were I at home where I might lie at ease upon

my bed with proper attendance. But here I was in a wild uninhabited part

of the world having nearly 150 miles to travel without any proper nourish-

ment, under an absolute necessity of traveling and without so much as

an acquaintance except my brother and 2 or 3 others (whom    I but

barely knew by sight) from whom I could reasonably expect anything

of consequence in my situation. Under these circumstances I was at

an entire loss what to do, whether it would be best either to go back

or forward; my brother's advice was that I should return to the valley

with Manuel and stay there till an alteration either for the better or

worse, which notwithstanding the distressing thought of being in a

distant country from home among a people of bad character and entirely

destitute of friend or acquaintance, I agreed to and was preparing to

return when I was persuaded by several of the company to try to go

forward, they promising me their friendly assistance on the way. On

these conditions I again determined to go forward as far as I could;

one of the company having sent me his beast which went very well, we

again set forward with a determination if possible to reach Parker's Spring

it being 12 miles; but of all the rides that I ever had this was the worst.

I seemed to be in a kind of insensibility and blindness. By which means

the way seemed to be exceeding long and tedious, but at length we arrived

at the place appointed and took up camp.

CUMBERLAND GAP.

Mon. 20th. Soon after we left our encampment we came in sight

of Cumberland Gap and about an hour after passed thro the same.

This is a very noted place on account of the great number of people

358         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

who have here unfortunately fallen a prey to savage cruelty or barbarity.

The mountain in the gap is neither very steep nor high, but the almost

inaccessible cliffs on either side the road render it a place peculiar

for doing mischief. However we passed it without molestation, or seeing

any sign of Indians, except one mockerson track. We had not passed

the gap far before I was again taken with an exceeding hard ague,

which on its going off was succeeded by as hard a fever, nevertheless

I was obliged to travel, and with extreme weakness and fatigue reached

the appointed encampment about 66 miles beyond Cumberland Ford.

Tues. 21st. We rode thro a barren and exceeding badly watered

country; about 10 o'clock my ague again came on and it was with

great difficulty that I sat upon my beast. But I still was able to keep

on with the company tho many times thinking I should not be able to

proceed. This day we pushed hard, traveled late and took up camp

near Raccoon Spring.

Wed. 22nd. The weather having changed from fine, fair and warm

to cloudy, rainy and raw, rendered it disagreeable traveling and my

ague at the usual time of day coming on weakened me very fast, but

I still made out to travel. We took up in the evening at Rock Castle.

Thurs. 23rd. We fixed off, traveled hard and in the evening after

a fatiguing journey accompanied with distress and disappointment we

arrived at Englishe's Station, the first in the Kentucky settlement.

Fri. 24th. After getting breakfast at Englishe's we started for Bro.

George's but before we arrived there I was seized with my ague again.

We then called at Capt. Kincaid's where we tarried till toward the

evening. We then set forward again and arrived at Bro. George's about

sunset or a little after. We had the satisfaction of finding him and all

his family in health and enjoying the happiness of being in a safe part

of the country and having plenty of what is necessary for the support

of nature.

From this time till Friday the 21st. of November I was confined

almost entirely to the house and chiefly to the bed, having an ague

every day and seldom if ever clear of a fever. I during this time took

two vomits one of tartar, the other of Indian phisick, neither of which

worked me properly. I also took a large quantity of other drugs and

medicines none of which had the effect of removing my ague. I was

confident it was a foul stomach that was the cause of all my disorders

and did not expect to be perfectly well till I could get it cleansed. In

consequence of which I desired Bro. George to get me a large dose of

tartar; he accordingly got me 5 grains which I immediately took and

which worked me tolerable well. This phisick I think by the blessing

of God was the means of carrying off the ague and in a great measure

of dispeling my fevers. Nevertheless as I had been sick so long I had

gotten so weak that I was still scarcely able to stir out of the house.

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.        359

Sat. 22nd. November. I continued at my brother's all day and don't

know that I felt anything of the ague but still continued feverish.

Sun. 23rd. Bro. George having a meeting 3 or 4 miles from my

brother's I concluded to go with him which I accordingly did and

think I felt better than I had done since I was taken sick.

Mon. 24th. I continued at my brother's all the day and still seemed

to mend.

Tues. 25th. I rode with Sister Frances to one of the neighbors

and returned again in the afternoon considerably recruited, tho still

exceeding weak.

DISAPPOINTED IN KENTUCKY LANDS.

Wed. 26th. Bro. George and myself set off for Mr. Curd's about

16 miles from my brothers and although I expected the ride would

fatigue me very much, when we arrived there in the evening I found

myself nearly as well as when I set off. In this ride I had the only

opportunity of seeing the country that I have had since I arrived in

it. The richest land as to the soil is nearly as I expected to find tho

not altogether so rich. My expectation was to find richer land than

I ever saw, but was disappointed in my judgment. Again, I expected

to find a level country but in this I was also mistaken, the country I

think being rather hillier than in Powhatan, besides a vast number of

sinkholes many of which contained an acre of ground and the sides

being so steep as to render it untillable. I also found myself wrong

in regard to the quality of land in general, there being much more

poor land than I expected to have found, and but a small proportion

of what is called the first rate. Bro. George walked over to Mr. Ben

Bradshaw's, but I being too weak to walk tarried at Mr. Curd's who

is the best fixed with necessaries of any person I have seen in Ken-

tucky.

Thurs. 27th. We returned to Bro. Stokes' as the day was cloudy

and raw and at times rained a little, but we sustained no damage.

Fri. 28th. was close, cloudy and snowy, besides a good deal which

had fallen in the night, which prevented my turning out.

Sat. 29th. was a fine, fair and warm day which soon melted off

the snow. We then fixed up and started for the Manakin town, but

the coldness of the season, the length and dangerousness of the way

and particularly the exceeding weak state of health that I was in for

executing such a journey, with the hardships to which I must unavoid-

ably be exposed, rendered the thoughts of it somewhat disagreeable.

But the great desire and fervent longings that I had to once more

see my native country enabled me to surmount all difficulties, and we

accordingly set off and took up at Capt. Owsley's about 8 miles from

Bro. George's. Here we got our horses all shoed besides providing

ourselves with some necessaries, determining to start the next day for

the Crab Orchard.

360         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

Sun. 30th. We were somewhat surprised when we arose in the

morning to find it snowing very fast, the evening before having been

very warm, fair and pleasant. It continued snowing till about 12 or 1

o'clock by which time it was an ankle deep or more, which prevented

our going to the Crab Orchard. It ceased snowing about 1 o'clock but

continued cloudy and raw all the remainder of the day.

Mon. Dec. 1st. After having fixed up our luggage and taken break-

fast we started from Capt. Owsley's, but being detained longer than

we expected made it near 12 o'clock before we arrived at the Crab

Orchard. When we arrived we were informed the company had been

gone from there about an hour. We were then obliged to push hard

to overtake them, but being much plagued with our packs, and being

also obliged to call at English's prevented our overtaking them till they

encamped. I was enabled this day to ride thro the snow and frequently

obliged to get down to alter our pack without feeling any perceivable

damage; we traveled about 22 miles and took with the rest of the

company on Scagg's creek.

HORSES STRAYED.

Tues. 2nd. We left our encampment just as it was well light and

traveled pretty fast. About 12 o'clock it clouded up and began to rain

and continued to rain all day; we traveled till near dark and then

took up on Raccoon creek. But riding thro the rain with the fatigue

of traveling about 30 miles threw me into a smart fever. Bro. George

also having took a great cold was likewise very unwell. As soon as

we arrived at the encamping ground we immediately turned our horses

loose into the cane, thinking before we lay down to confine them, but

we were both so unwell that we were scarcely able to move from camp

so that they remained loose all night. After a very wet night and

bad lodging we were blessed with the light of

Wed. 3rd. but to our no small disappointment our horses were not

to be found. Bro. George made what search he could till towards 8

or 9 o'clock without success and then offered a reward of 10 dollars

to any person that would bring them. But in vain, for after searching

till sometime in the afternoon we were under the disagreeable necessity

of returning to Kentucky. This was truly a wretched shift but never-

theless it was the best we could make and notwithstanding our case

was bad yet we had great reason to be thankful that it was no worse.

For first, we had one horse left, which I had luckily tied up over night;

secondly a company of our old acquaintance coming by mere accident

to our camp about 10 at night, who (happy for us) were detained in

the morning as well as we; and when we were driven to the necessity

of returning assisted us on our way back; and thirdly when we arrived

at Kentucky we had the good fortune to find our horses, who had got

there about 2 hours before us, so that we came off much better than

we could reasonably have expected.

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         361

Thurs. 4th. The weather was still cloudy, cold and raw, but we

pursued our journey. But I think I suffered the most cold that I almost

ever did in one day in my life; for I was so weak that I was unable

to walk which was the only expedient we could have recourse to to

warm ourselves when cold. Having made it rather late in starting from

our encampment (which was on Rock Castle) we did not arrive at Ken-

tucky till about 9 o'clock at night.

ARRIVE AT THE KENTUCKY RIVER.

Fri. 5th. was cold and blustering which brought on a heavy shower

of snow which was soon over and then it cleared away. Bro. George

and myself having taken a walk down to the river to wash ourselves

saw the greatest curiosity I ever saw in Kentucky. Which is as follows:

On the river bank lie several large rocks the gritt of which as well as

I recollect is much like grindstone gritt; within these rocks there are

innumerable appearances of some kind of shells which are turned into

solid stone, the greater part of which a good deal resemble buck's horns.

What was the cause of this strange phenomenon of nature I am at a

loss to determine, nevertheless I must think that these stones were

once covered with water, and that these appearances were once perfect

shells. Otherwise I can form no idea how they should come there.

But of this enough.--Having parted with our provisions both for our-

selves and horses we were obliged to provide more, having determined

to start with the company that were coming from Crab Orchard. We

accordingly got enough to carry us thro the wilderness and with it

once more started for home. But the company having got the start

of us thro our being unavoidably detained in providing our provisions,

we were again obliged to travel by ourselves till late in the night,

when we at last overtook them at their encampment near the mouth

of Scragg's creek.

Sat. 6th. We started pretty early, travelled slowly and encamped

in the evening on Fraser's creek. We were in number about 35 men

and there being a good deal of danger of Indians, caused us to be

much on our guard. Wherefore it was thought proper to place out 4

centinels one on each quarter of the encampment, which after a list

was obtained for the purpose were accordingly ordered to their several

posts.

INDIAN BARBARITY.

Sun. 7th. We fixed up and started from our encampment as soon

as it was well light. Soon after our setting out we were struck with

horror at the sight of the fresh grave of the unfortunate Fielding,

who had fallen a prey to the savage barbarity of a merciless, cruel

and bloodthirsty enemy; who after it was his fatal misfortune to have

his thigh bone shattered to pieces was inhumanly butchered and bruised

and at length scalped to complete the horror of that mournful scene.

362         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

Soon after we had passed this monument of cruelty, our front were

alarmed at the fresh signs of horses that had come up to the road

on a high hill, which was doubtless a party of savages, who had come

hither to learn if there had any company just passed. Nevertheless

we pursued our journey without any interruption. We travelled on

till night when we came to the place where poor Fielding and his com-

panions received their mortal wounds; the company who survived the

shocking massacre had built for their preservation a kind of fort, into

which they repaired but unhappily their cautious proceedings came too,

late for their unfortunate friends. We proceeded a few miles farther

and took up camp.

DANGERS IN CUMBERLAND GAP.

Mon. 8th. Having determined if possible this day to get into

Powell's valley we started about 2 hours before day. When the day-

light came on the front were again alarmed by a mockerson track, which

appeared not to have been gone an hour. On seeing this repeated sign

of Indians, a council was held wherein it was decreed that the gun

men should divide, some in front and some in the rear in case the rear

should be attacked. In this position we marched until we passed Cum-

berland river. When we arrived at the foot of Cumberland mountain

we were again halted and the whole of the guns (being about 12 or

15 in number excepting pistols) were put in front; thus we marched

uninterrupted thro the gap. But 2 men, one of whom had a foundered

and the other a tired horse, being quite out of sight of the rest of

the company behind, when they had a little passed the top of the

mountain one of them chancing to cast his eye some distance to the

left hand was suddenly startled by the sight of 6 Indians running

with their guns in their hands as tho they meant to head the body

of the company by taking advantage of a crooked part of the road.

They immediately set up a continued cry for assistance, which being

heard and answered by those before, made the very mountain seem to

be alive with people. But when the company collected again on the top

of the mountain no Indian was to be seen. A council was then again

held, when Col. Martin gave it as his opinion that we should certainly

be attacked some time in the night by those Indians. Whereupon the

guns were again divided, some in the front and some in the rear. We

then marched on in close and good order in a single Indian file; we

marched thus about 5 miles and then stopped, fed our horses and

determined to travel the greater part of the night. As soon as our

horses were done eating we set forward again it being at this time

about 2 hours in the night; after traveling about 6 miles farther we

came to the encampment of a company bound for Kentucky with whom

we encamped all night.

Tues. 9th. Hoping we were now out of danger, several of the

company talked of not starting till towards 8 or 9 o'clock, but my brother

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.        363

and me with a few others pushed on with an intention to get to the

Valley Station. We travelled on till towards the middle of the day,

when all except my brother and me stopped to let their horses eat

cane. We pushed along, thinking to go somewhat farther and wait

for them while our horses should feed, but seeing no convenient place

we kept on, when as our pack horses were going along before and com-

ing to the brow of an hill suddenly started back and came meeting us;

my brother immediately dismounted and bore off to the left hand and

I bore off to the right. We could make no discoveries of anything,

but this so alarmed us that we were not at ease all the day after; we

saw also several mockerson tracks along the road which still tended

to increase our fears. But safely and undisturbed we arrived at the

Valley Station about 10 o'clock at night.

Wed. 10th. Being now got quite beyond danger we did not start

so soon as usual so that all our company came up again and we all set

off together about 11 o'clock from the Valley Station and took up camp

at night on Clinch river.

Thurs. 11th. We started pretty early and arrived at the Blockhouse

about 1 o'clock, so that we have been but 6 days since we started from

Englishe's. We fed our horses at the Blockhouse and then rode on to

Campbell's.

Fri. 12th. We fixed and started about an hour before day, but

the morning being wet and raining we went about 6 miles and took up

again till it ceased raining and then pushed on to about 3 or 4 miles

this side of Washington Courthouse.

Sat. 13th. We started about break of day, travelled pretty hard

and encamped in the woods near the head of Holstein.

Sun. 14th. We started early and took up camp in the woods, oppo-

site the Peak mountains.

Mon. 15th. We set out some time before day; about 9 o'clock

crossed N. River and about 5 in the afternoon crossed the stupendous

Allegenia ridge and took up camp in the woods near the Big Spring.

Tues. 16th. We started an hour or 2 before day, travelled fast and

took up at night about 40 miles from our encampment.

Wed. 17th. The morning being wet and raining we did not start

until after breakfast. However we reached Mr. J. Chastain's a little

after sunset.

Thurs. 18th. was a very bad snowy day, nevertheless we rode from

Mr. Chastain's to Mr. Stovall's it being near 40 miles.

Fri. 19th. We started from Mr. Stovall's after breakfast and arrived

at R. Moseley's about daylight down.

Sat. 20th. Started from R. Moseley's and took up at Neil Thomp-

son's in Cumberland.

Sun. 21st. About daylight down arrived safe at home; having been

mercifully preserved and kept thro innumerable hardships, dangers and

364         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

difficulties, for which may the Power that kept me have unremitted

praise.

II.

JOURNEY THROUGH KENTUCKY AND INTO THE NORTHWEST TERRITORY.

1795.

A variety of consideration have for some time led me to think, that

the peace and tranquility of my native country, stood on a very pre-

carious footing. The pride and profaneness that is everywhere discov-

erable among all ranks of people, the great decay of true and vital

religion among all orders of professors, the disordered state of public

affairs, the fatal tendency of that policy which tolerates slavery and

oppression in a free republican government, and above all a full con-

viction of the truth of that remarkable saying "The measure ye mete

shall be measured to you again," are considerations that have made me

to cry out with the prophet, "O that I had in the wilderness a lodging

place, that I might rest in the day of trouble, when the Lord cometh

up to invade the people with his troops."  I therefore determined if

God spare my life, to visit the western country, if haply I might find

a place answerable to my wishes. I therefore left home on Sunday the

4th day of October, 1795, proceeded to Peter Sublett's and preached my

farewell discourse from 2 Corinthians 13-11, to a number of attentive

hearers, ready to depart on the morrow on my intended journey.

Mon. 5th. After taking leave of my near and dear connections, my-

self and Thomas Porter set out about 9 o'clock, but having occasion

to call at several places it was sunset when we reached Thompson's

tavern. Here we stopped, fed our horses and again set forward; day-

light now forsook us; the lowering clouds portended a storm and the

winds already roared at a distance. The lightning blazed around us and

the thunder rolled over our heads. The rain came on with impetuosity

and the rushing wind passed by with its frightful roar. In consequence

of the uncommon darkness of the night we got bewildered and took a

wrong road. We knew nothing of our mistake till we heard the sound of

the water, tumbling over a mill dam on Appamatox river. We very for-

tunately however got back into the right road and wet and weary enough

reached Wm. Maxey's about 11 o'clock in the night.

Tues. 6th. We left Bro. Maxey's about 12 o'clock and reached Philip

Gatch's about 3.

Wed. 7th. Thomas Porter, Philip Rowzie, Samuel Mansfield and

myself started from Bro. Gatch's about 10 and traveled through a bar-

ren and broken country. A few solitary farms with a small cornfield

and cabin filled with tobacco, were the objects that presented themselves

to our view. On the head of the Appamatox river the scene was agree-

ably changed. Instead of fields overrun with weeds, we find large and

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         365

beautiful farms, well cultivated and beautiful fields of wheat. We took

up in the evening at Hunter's tavern.

Thurs. 8th. We set out early, traveled slowly, took a wrong road,

passed Campbell Court House about 12 o'clock and reached Mr. Chastian's

about 9 at night.

ON THE TOP OF APPLE ORCHARD MOUNTAIN.

Fri. 9th. In order to give our horses a little rest we concluded

to continue this day at Mr. Chastain's. A son of Mr. Chastain offered

to conduct us to the top of a mountain called the Apple Orchard. This

proposal we gladly accepted. We set off from Mr. Chastain's about 8

o'clock and rode to the foot of the mountain, where we arrived about 10.

We now left our horses and began to climb the mountain. At about

12 we reached a kind of level, being now as our pilots informed us,

about half way to the top. Here one of our company got discouraged

and returned. The rest of us pursued our intention of gaining the top,

which we were informed was yet four miles distant. But not discouraged

at the distance or difficulties we met with, we honestly exerted ourselves

and reached the most beautiful summit of this lofty mountain about 2

o'clock. There is about two acres of level ground on the top without

a tree, bush or shrub, so that we had a full and extensive view of the

world beneath us. Here language is too weak to convey a proper idea

of the beauty of the scene. We find ourselves on the top of one of the

highest mountains in Virginia, if not in North America. When we get

near the top the trees are low and shrubby, having much the appearance

of an old apple orchard, whose limbs have been over-loaded with fruit.

Indeed I suppose these trees are frequently more loaded with ice, than

the best of orchards are with apples; but, as was observed before, the

summit is quite naked of trees and opens an unbounded prospect to the

enraptured beholder. You cast your eyes eastwardly, a beautiful level

country, adorned with farms and plantations presents itself to view, but if

you look southwardly, westwardly or northerly, "Hills peep o'er hills and

mountains on mountains rise." Some of these appear close at hand and

seem to invite you across the deep winding valleys to take a view of

their rocky summits; while others at an immense distance raise their

high heads above the floating clouds. Interspersed among the valleys a

number of beautiful meadows discover themselves to view. After in-

dulging ourselves with this enchanting prospect about an hour, we set

off down, in doing which we passed by one of the head springs of Otter

river. We got back to Mr. Chastain's a little after sunset.

Sat. 10th. We left Mr. Chastain's about 11 o'clock after experiencing

the most unbounded generosity and respect. We traveled slowly and

reached Buford's tavern in the evening, where we had appointed to meet

some other company.

Sun 11th. We were this morning joined by Wm. and James Bryant,

366         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

Mrs. Bryant and Mrs. Blakey. Started from Buford's about 8 and passed

the Blue Ridge about 10 o'clock.  In consequence of information we

received respecting the badness of the wilderness road, we here turned

our course and made for the Kanhaway. We passed Fincastle about 3

in the afternoon, which is the county town of Botetourt. It is a neat

little town, very agreeably situated in a fertile country, and in full view

of the Blue Ridge, Peaks of Otter and certain high mountains in the west.

Here we find a surprising change in the agricultural system to that used

on the eastern side of the mountain. Here are no fields of tobacco cul-

tivated by droves of unhappy slaves. But instead thereof the most beauti-

ful meadows with their purling streams watering their green and

delightful borders.  Here are barns stored with plenty, and hay in

abundance in the meadows and nature seems to smile on the industrious

and frugal husbandman. We took up in the evening at A. Caldwell's in

a huge cluster of mountains.

THE SWEET SPRINGS -OTHER MINERAL SPRINGS.

Mon. 12th. We have done little else to-day but climb and descend

mountains. Immediately after leaving our lodging, we began to ascend

what is called the Craigs creek mountain and about 8 o'clock we reached

its summit. Here we found ourselves so high that we could see the

clouds hovering in the valleys beneath us and mountains innumerable

entirely surrounding us. Precisely at 12 o'clock we began to climb the

Potts-creek mountain. Two hours and ten minutes of laborious travel

brought us to the top. About an hour and half more we spent in going

down it. It is amazing steep and rocky, especially in going down. But

we are not yet done with this rugged day. We now began to ascend

the "Sweet-spring mountain," reached its summit about 5, and arrived

at the foot about sunset, which brought us to the Sweet Springs where

we took up. This has been a most tiresome and fatiguing day's travel

though we had gotten only 21 miles. The scenes that presented them-

selves to our view were high mountains, fearful precipices, enormous

rocks, deep winding valleys, high water falls; and a dreary, lonely and

desert country, surrounded us on every side. It was a most agreeable

sensation therefore which we experienced when we reached the Sweet

Springs, where we met with good accommodations.

Tues. 13th. As soon as it was well light I took a walk to the

fountain, which claims the pre-eminence of all the waters of Virginia.

It rises out of a beautiful valley at the foot of the Sweet Spring mount-

ain, and is from 30 to 40 feet in diameter. Near one edge of it is a box

about 12 inches square and 2 feet high, with a spout, venting a stream

of water about the size of a man's arm; from this spout the water is

taken which the people drink. About the center of the spring is a

house containing two apartments with a bath in each. These baths are

8 to 10 feet square and the water in each is 3 or 4 feet deep, into which

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         367

they descend by steps. The water being about bloodwarm renders bathing

a most agreeable as well as a most profitable exercise. These waters are

found to contain a very considerable quantity of air in consequence of

which, thousands of bubbles perpetually rise. The taste of the water

is not easily described.  It appears strongly impregnated with vitriol,

while a small touch of sulphur is also easily discoverable. This spring

is said by Jefferson to be one of the headwaters of the James river. I

think it sends forth much the greatest quantity of water of any fountain

I ever saw, part of which conveyed by canal, works a saw-mill at about

100 yards distance from the spring and a grist mill a little farther down.

The Red Springs about a mile down the same stream next presented

themselves to view. This fountain with a bold stream, that dyes the

earth and stones of a red, or rusty cast, rushes out of a steep bank and

quickly mingles its waters with those of the Sweet Springs, to which (if

we may be allowed to judge from the taste) it seems nearly related.

To a contemplative and philosophic mind, this country opens a wide

and extensive field, while it affords at the same time a most striking

display of the wisdom, power and goodness of the great Universal Archi-

tect. In one place we hear of springs the "waters of which are hot

enough to boil an egg," while others in a few feet of the same place

produce water as cool as common water. Again we hear of others,

though quite cold will take fire by the flame of a candle or the flash of

gunpowder and burn for days together. Others issue forth strongly

impregnated with sulphur, while not a few send forth in their brackish

streams immense quantities of common salt. These different properties

are supposed to be produced by different minerals through which these

waters pass. But how weak and perhaps erroneous are the ideas we

from of these things. What strange cause can produce such a sur-

prising heat in the hot springs, or the inflammable matter in the burning

springs? All I can say is, to acknowledge with one of old, that "these

things are too wonderful for me."

After satisfying our curiosity in viewing these several springs, we

ascended the Allegheny mountain, the summit of which we gained about

12 o'clock. Here we took leave of the waters of the James river and with

it all others that run eastwardly. We descended a branch of the Green

Briar river, called Howard's creek. Here we saw what are called the

Sulphur Springs, an appellation which they have received from there

having been a strong smell and taste of sulphur. At these several

springs baths are erected and houses built for the accommodation of the

sick, which flock to them from all parts of the United States and even

from Europe; and if we are not wrongly informed some very remarkable

cures have been effected by the virtue of the waters. The country down

Howard's creek is poor and broken. Here were more acorns than I ever

saw in any one place before. But we saw a great number of pigeons

flocking thither which I suppose soon devoured them. We went down

368         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

the creek to its mouth, just below which we crossed Green Briar river

and reached Lewisburg about dark.

Wed. 14th. We spent some time in town viewing its rarities and

curiosities. It consists of about 20 families, who are tradesmen, me-

chanics, etc. The situation of the place is far from agreeable, being built

on very broken ground, without any river to wash its borders or view

of high mountains at a great distance to give it a prospect. The district

court is sometimes held at this place. We pursued our journey through

some very fertile lands and arrived in the evening at Gillyland's in the

edge of the wilderness. Here we overtook our old friend Hatcher and

Sublett with their families with whom we encamped.

Thurs. 15th. Immediately after our setting out, a dark cloud showed

its broad front over the top of a neighboring mountain. The rushing

wind, attended with heavy rain, roared among the trees, and bellowed in

the mountains. We sheltered ourselves under some large trees till the

fury of the storm was over. We then put forward, but the wind con-

tinued very boisterous the rest of the day and we were in much danger

from the falling trees. But the Lord preserved us. Our journey to-day

has lain through a dreary, lonely, uninhabited country and very badly

watered. We lodged or encamped in the woods near the foot of Gauley

mountain. Here we thought it prudent to keep sentry for fear of Indians.

THE TOP OF GAULEY MOUNTAIN- A CROWDED BOAT.

Fri. 16th. We left our encampment about an hour before day. At

sunrise we reached the top of Gauley mountain, which is pretty high,

steep, rocky and slippery. But the greatest difficulty is in descending

it; great caution and skill are necessary in order to carry down a

wagon safe. At the foot of the mountain we met a young man from

the Boatyard, who informed us that his brother, who procured a boat,

was desirous of taking in some single horsemen to complete his load.

On receiving this agreeable intelligence, we dispatched two young men

express to the Boatyard to stop the boat till we should arrive. We

crossed the rocky ford of Gauley river about 10 o'clock, rode down it

about a mile, with the mountain projecting over our heads on the

one hand and the river on the other tumbling over the rocks. In a

small flat on the river I saw a number of the most beautiful walnut

trees I ever saw, one of which I measured with a thread, about 21 feet

in circumference, with a body about 40 feet long without a single limb.

We arrived at the Boatyard about half an hour by sun but met with

very indifferent accommodations.

Sat. 17th. We procured for our voyage 51/2 bushels of sweet potatoes

and about 12 pounds of very indifferent meat; it was however the best,

yea, all that we could get for our company, which consists of 24 persons.

With this scanty stock of provisions we embarked on board our boat

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         369

about 3 o'clock. But the wind being against us, we got only four miles,

where we took up for the night.

Sun. 18th. The whole of our company, 24 in number and 14 horses

embarked on board our boat which is 28 feet long only. We were conse-

quently heavy loaded and amazingly pestered for want of room. The

winds were yet contrary and pretty high withal, which made us sail

very slow. Finding we could easily get ahead of the boat, myself and

a few others, after procuring a pilot, set out by land with an intention

to find out and take a view of those wonders of nature.

THE BURNING SPRINGS.

Having reached a very rich and fertile piece of woods on the bank

of the Kanhaway, our pilot informed us we were near the springs. We

then set out in search of them. We had been but a few minutes engaged

in this search, before an uncommon rumbling noise called my attention

to a particular spot. I made to the place and to my very great amazement

found a round puddle of muddy water of about 6 feet in diameter

boiling and rumbling after a strange and surprizing manner. The

Spring (as it is called) altho in this strange agitation, had no vent or

stream issuing from it, yet boiled with more violence than any spring

or pot I ever saw. We flashed a little gunpowder over it and it instantly

took fire and flamed like burning spirits. The smell of the fire was like

that of burning pitcoal and the flame, I observed, did not produce any

smoke. We had therefore a very good opportunity of warming ourselves,

the weather being pretty cold. About 50 yards from the above is another

spring of the same kind; this we found burning. The water was entirely

extinguished and the fire seemed to proceed out of the ground. Our

pilot informed us that this was the largest spring of the two and sup-

posed it had been burning for several days at least. It is observable that

the water in these springs is remarkable cold, but after being set on

fire the water get warm and at length disappears. The fire is easily

extinguished by smothering it. After we had sufficiently viewed this sur-

prizing phenomenon we pursued our course to the mouth of Elk, where

we again embarked and proceeded down the river thro the Elk shoals,

and then took up for the night.

POINT PLEASANT.

Mon. 19th. We proceeded down the river, sailed all night, slept

none and arrived about break of day at Point Pleasant.

Tues. 20th. When it got sufficiently light we took a view of the

place, the beautiful situation of which is remarked by travelers. The

Monongalia and Allegania rivers form a junction at Fort Pitt and from

thence downward is called the Ohio. The course of this river is from

northeast to southwest generally; but coming near the point it turns

northward and receives the Kanhaway. New river and Green Briar unite

Vol. XVI.-24.

370         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

their currents about 200 miles from the Ohio and from their union

downward it is called the Kanawa. It shapes its general course nearly

west, till coming near the point it turns northward, and rolls its beautiful

and gentle current, into the still more beautiful Ohio. In this beautiful

point, the land lies high, is amazing rich, and uncommonly level. The

place seems to be formed by nature for a town, and probably were we

acquainted with the history of America as well as we are with that of

some other countries, we might mention when the time was that a town

really stood on this very point. But alas, nothing now remains of its

ancient works but a few monuments of the dead. A new town is now

laid off; the streets are straight and the lots enclosed, but the buildings

are (as yet) but very indifferent. But its delightful situation, its con-

veniency for trade thro the two noble rivers, which wash its borders,

its being surrounded by a rich and fertile country, are objects which

point out its future consequence and splendor. A little back of the town,

and between the two rivers, rises a mountain which not only commands

an extensive view of the distant country, the rivers and the point, but

will probably also at a future day be the strength and safety of the

town. Here was a bloody battle fought between the Indians and whites

in 1774.

GALLIPOLIS, THE FRENCH TOWN-AN ENTERTAINING FRENCHMAN.

About 9 o'clock we left this delightful situation and proceeded down

the Ohio. About an hour's sail brought us alongside of the French

town Gallipolis. Here we also landed in order to procure some bread

for hitherto we had been unable to furnish any for our voyage. The

town contains, as we informed, about 100 families, who appear to live

in a very social, agreeable and friendly manner, being a frugal and indus-

trious people.

While we were here a civil and well bred Frenchman obligingly enter-

tained us with a number of curiosities. He first kindled a fire of a small

clear flame, which, by means of a foot bellows, he increased or diminished

at his pleasure. He then took a piece of glass about the shape and size

of a pipe-stem  (of which he had a great number of pieces); he held

this glass in the flame till it began to melt, then applied it to his

mouth and blew it up like a bladder; this he gave a fillip with his finger

and it burst with an explosion like the report of a pistol. Another

glass he blew up in the same manner and thro a tube as fine as a hair

filled it with water, running upward in a strange manner and filling

the globe at the top. Other pieces he wired as fine as a hair; indeed

it appeared as if he had taught this brittle substance so far to obey

him, that it took any form he pleased. He showed us a number of

thermometers, barometers, spirit proofs etc., all of his own make. The

virtue of the spirit proof I tried on different kinds of spirits, and found

it to answer the purpose for which it was intended by showing the real

strength of the liquor. He terminated these shows by exhibiting a chem-

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.        371

ical composition which had the peculiar quality of setting wood on

fire. The polite and agreeable manner in which he entertained us

for about half an hour was not the smallest gratification to me; for

while it marked the general character of his nation, it placed his own in

a very conspicuous point of view.

We left Gallipolis about 2 o'clock, pursued our course down the

river and were near the mouth of Sandy river by sunrise the next

morning, 55 miles from the French town. Sandy river is the boundary

line between Virginia and Kentucky.

Wed. 21st. The weather since we embarked has been fair and pleas-

ant, which makes greatly in our favor. Our horses however get very

restless and their legs swell considerably but we comfort ourselves with

a hope that we shall reach Limestone tomorrow.

Thurs. 22nd. About 2 o'clock in the afternoon we reached the set-

tlement at Kennaday's bottom, and being tired of our situation determined

here to land. We therefore disembarked and pursued our journey down

the Ohio by land about 7 miles and took up in the evening at a Mr.

Lawson's. We were in hopes to have got some refreshment here, but to

our great mortification could get neither bread, meat, milk or butter.

We however got some Irish potatoes and parched corn and with this we

made our first meal in Kentucky. We then composed ourselves to rest

and enjoyed a refreshing night's sleep on the hard floor.

Fri. 23rd. We left the Ohio, and turned our faces toward Lexington;

called and ate a hearty breakfast at A. Vears; crossed the north fork of

Licking about 12, and came into a country thickly inhabited and vastly

rich. We took up in the evening at Row's on Johnston's Fork

THE BLUE LICKS.

Sat. 24th. Soon after our setting out we passed over a ground ren-

dered memorable by reason of a battle fought here in 1782, in which

Col. Todd, commander of the Kentuckians and about 60 of his brave

companions in arms, fell victims to a superior savage force. After

passing this aceldama or field of blood, we soon reached the Blue Licks,

the country around which remains a monument of barrenness. The amaz-

ing resort of buffalo to the Licks in former times is supposed to be the

cause of this barrenness. As you approach the Licks, at the distance

of 4 or 5 miles from it, you begin to perceive the change. The earth

seems to be worn away, the roots of the trees lie naked and bare, the

rocks forsaken of the earth, that once covered them lie naked on the

neighboring hills, and roads of an amazing size, in all directions, unite

at the Licks, as their common center. Here immense herds of buffalo

used formerly to meet and with their fighting, scraping etc., have worn

away the ground to what it is at present. The Salt Spring at this place

rises in a flat ground near the river Licking, and affords a great deal

of water. The water is brackish with a touch of sulphur, and has a

372         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

bluish appearance, which is the reason of its being called the Blue Licks.

Here they make considerable quantities of salt. It is found that the

saltiest water is procured by sinking wells a few feet deep and getting

the water from thence. In sinking a well of this kind here some little

time past, the bones and teeth of an animal of enormous size were

found. Some of these bones and teeth I saw and handled. A tusk was

the most remarkable. It was something in shape of a boar's tusk, was

4 or 5 feet long, and when first found weighed about 50 pounds. We

left the Lick and pursued our journey to Lexington following one of the

old buffalo roads, which I suppose was generally 200 feet wide. After

we got from the Licks 5 or 6 miles the lands became good and sur-

prizingly fertile. We reached Col. Rogers' at Bryant Old Station where

we lodged.

LEXINGTON AND VICINITY- THE KENTUCKY RIVER.

Sun. 25th. We entered and passed thro Lexington, the boast and

pride of the Kentuckians. It is an agreeable town, pleasantly situated, in a

thriving condition, and a place of considerable trade. In the afternoon

I arrived at my brother's and had the satisfaction of finding him and

his family in health.

Mon. 26th. Was called to attend the funeral of a Mrs. Moddis,

who is said to have feared God from her youth. She died yesterday

about 1 o'clock leaving a husband and children to bewail her loss.

My brother requested me to preach, which I did to a considerable number

of people, who were collected on the occasion.

Fri. 30th. I went to Mr. John Watkins' in Woodford county, at-

tended by my brother and sister Frances. I was greatly pleased with Mr.

Watkins' settlement. The situation is beautiful, land fertile, water good,

and air healthy. These blessings with a contented mind, are an ines-

timable treasure. But alas, where is the man that enjoys all these favors

at once and the same time?

Sat. 31st. We walked to Mr. Henry Watkins' and saw there several

old friends and acquaintances and returned in the evening to Mr. John

Watkins'.

Sun. Nov. 1st. I went with Mr. Watkins to a meeting house and

heard Mr. John Dupuy preach a good discourse. After he concluded

he requested me to preach; I did so from Rev. 3 etc. The people heard

with seriousness and the deepest attention, while I pointed out the danger

of apostacy, and the blessed effects of perseverance. After preaching I

called and took dinner with Stephen Trabeu; Mr. Dupuy and a number

of other old friends and acquaintances making up our company. I then

proceeded to Edward Trabeu's and spent the evening.

Mon. 2nd. Here for the first time I see the Kentucky river, and

the inaccessible cliffs that appear on both sides of it. The bed of the

river which I suppose cannot be less than 300 feet below the tops of

these enormous banks appears like a gutter cut to a vast depth by the

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         373

water during a long course of time; from the tops of these banks (or

as they are more usually called, cliffs) the sand goes off level and

after getting a little from the river are amazingly rich. I left Mr.

Trabeu's after breakfast, dined at Mr. Adams' and then proceeded to

Mr. John Moss', whose kindness to me while traveling to this country

once before still fills my heart with gratitude.

Tues. 3rd. I went to Lexington, where were a vast number of people

collected to see a poor felon executed. Here I met with my brother

and accompanied him home.

Wed. 4th. I set out on a journey to the south side of Kentucky,

forded the river, passed thro part of Mercer and Lincoln counties, and

reached John Bryant's in the evening.

Thurs. 5th. Mr. Bryant rode with me to Capt. Owsley's in Madison

county. But instead of that cheerfulness that once characterized this

family, I found that grief had erected her standard here. This was

owing to the horrid and criminal conduct of a Mr. Gouge (a son-in-law

of Capt. Owsley's), who a few days before had killed a man and for

which atrocious act he is now confined in Frankfort jail, and will probably

suffer the punishment, which his crime deserves. The man murdered

had discharged an innocent slave, which Gouge intended to flog. This

was a crime too great for Gouge's boisterous temper to put up with. He

therefore discharged a rifle at the man, the contents of which passing

thro his knee, caused his death 15 days later.

Fri. 6th. I visited Wm. Bryant where I wrote several letters to my

family and friends expecting to have a ready conveyance by Mr. Douglass,

who intends to go to Richmond. But how great was my disappointment

when I called at Mr. Douglass' and found that he had started the day

before. It would have been a great gratification to me to have contrived

a letter to them but must await another conveyance.

Sat. 7th. I returned to Capt. Owsley's and preached in the evening

to a small but attentive congregation from Rev. 22: 17.

Sun. 8th. I had appointed to preach at the meeting house on Sugar

creek, but was prevented by the rain. In the evening I returned to Mr.

John Bryant's.

DROUTH IN KENTUCKY.

Mon. 9th. The summer and fall hitherto having been uncommonly

dry in this country, has created an alarming scarcity of water. Stock of

all kinds have suffered very much. Horses to my knowledge have not

drank a single drop of water for many days together, and cattle could

only loll out their tongues where they once drank the refreshing stream.

The far greater part of the springs were stopped running and not a

few entirely dry. Even the bottoms of the mill ponds were as dry as

an hearth, and numbers of people had their water to fetch several miles.

A day or two past the whole face of the country was as dry as tinder,

and considerable rivers had ceased to flow in their channels. But this

374         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

morning the scene is agreeably changed. The springs, creeks, and

rivers flow in their usual channels and the thirsty cattle flock thither and

quench their thirst. The mills, once more driven by the force of the

water, prepare grain for the use of man. Surely the people of this

country as well as the Virginians ought to trace the footsteps of an

offended Deity. While the heavens has been brass over this country,

floods, storms and tempests have laid waste whole fields on the eastern

side of the mountains. If the rivers here have been dry, in Virginia

they have swelled to an uncommon height, while the mills in both countries

have been rendered useless, some for the want of water and others by

having too much. Thus it is that "God speaketh once, yea, twice yet

man perceiveth it not."

Tues. 10th. I travelled today in a strange country among a strange

people, who earnestly importuned me to come and preach among them

before I left the country. It appeared that the Universalists, joining

with the Deists, had given Christianity a deadly stab hereabouts. But

"the Lord hath his way in the wilderness and all things obey his

might." I trust he will yet bring good out of this evil, and that the

glory of scriptural religion, tho obscure for the present, will shine forth

hereafter with redoubled luster.

THE CLIFFS OF KENTUCKY.

Wed. 11th. After taking breakfast with Mr. Bryant I set out for

my brother's. About 12 o'clock I came to the Kentucky river and found

it considerably raised. While the boat was coming across to fetch me,

I improved the time, in taking a particular view of the stones, that

everywhere lay about my feet. Limestone in this country is everywhere

common, but here are also sand stones in abundance. As good flint

as I ever saw was here to be seen in considerable plenty and marble

itself was not wanting to make up the rich variety. But what is very

strange, all these different kinds of stone were to be seen at the same

time in one solid piece of a few pounds weight.

The above is a description of the pavement you stand upon; but

raising your eyes, a scene of a very different kind strikes your aston-

ished mind. On each side of the river you have a prospect of the

cliffs, a scene, tho wild and romantic, yet awful and majestic. The rock

cannot be less than 200 feet in height and in many places almost per-

pendicular and sometimes projecting over. Here are large pieces to

be seen, which appear just ready to break loose and tumble from their

high beds into the river below and it sometimes actually happens that

they break loose from above and come tumbling to the bottom in a

fearful and horrible manner. From the bed of the river to the highest

part of the cliff, the rock seems to have an appearance like that of a

river bank where a number of marks appear, pointing out to the be-

holder how high the water has been in a fresh. Their appearance sug-

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.          375

gests an idea and confirms the history of a universal flood, the power-

ful effects of which operating upon the limestone rock (which being of

a dissoluble nature) have made there various marks at the various

heights of the water while returning to the abyss. This is only one

among a great number of arguments that prove the doctrine of the

deluge. While traveling thro this country I have observed that the

rocks in a number of places contain a perfect impression of sea shells,

scolloped and carved in a most extraordinary manner. At an Indian

grave, near Mr. Bryant's, I saw a number of these appearances of differ-

ent kinds and shapes and a stone which had the appearance of the

backbone of a fish, the joints of which appeared quite plain and distinct.

From all this it would appear that this country, tho 7 or 800 miles

from the sea, has been deluged with water, and if so, how reasonable

it is to suppose that it was at the time of the universal flood.

The cliffs of Kentucky produce little else but cedar, which shooting

their roots among the rocks, grow in great abundance. They are gen-

erally from 6 inches to 2 feet thro, some however are much larger I

am told, and well adapted to building. After getting clear of the cliffs,

the soil gets richer as we go from the river till it exceeds description.

OBSERVATIONS ON KENTUCKY.

Thurs. 12th. I have now travelled thro a considerable part of the

state of Kentucky. The fertility of the lands generally, vastly exceed

anything I ever saw before. But O alas! There as in Virginia, the

slavery of the human race is unfortunately tolerated. Contrary to rea-

son and justice, contrary to our bill of rights, contrary to the prin-

ciples of the American Revolution and contrary to the dictates of con-

science, legislative, executive and judiciary departments connive at so

flagrant a violation of right, while the great body of people, persist in

a practice that must prove their overthrow.  Here the cries of the

oppressed are heard, while the mark of the whip strikes the feeling

heart with the keenest sensibility. The groans of the captive, heave the

troubled breast and the trickling tear moistens the sable cheek, while

innocent blood pollutes the ground and cries to heaven for vengeance.

There are a number of slaveholders however, tho deaf to the exhorta-

tion of the prophet (Is. 58:6) yet speak and act towards their slaves

with kindness in some degree. Yea some go so far as to allow them

considerable liberties, but this is not generally the case. What pity

it is, that the inhabitants of this country had not considered their true

interest when framing their constitution and shut out this horrid prac-

tice from them. When I reflect on the fertility of Kentucky, it really

grieves me to think, that ever the blood of a slave should stain so

rich a soil.

376         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

JOURNEY TO THE OHIO.

Fri. 13th. After commending my body and spirit to God I fixed

and started for the northwest side of the Ohio. I arrived at Lexing-

ton about 12, met there with my companion Thos. Porter; were de-

tained there till 3, then set out and arrived at Col. Collins' in the

evening, with whom we lodged.

Sat. 14th. We left our lodgings about 9 o'clock, after experiencing

every mark of generosity and politeness from Col. Collins. About 11

we passed thro Georgetown, the county seat of Scott. The town is

pleasantly situated in a very fertile country, half a mile from Elkhorn

and is composed of two principal streets, crossing each other at right

angles, which throws the town into the form of a cross. About 3 in

the afternoon, we came upon the waters of Eagle creek; here we got

into an uninhabited country, the lands on Eagle creek being poor and

very broken. At sunset we ascended what is called the Dry Ridge, on

which the road goes 27 miles without crossing a drop of water. This

ridge divides the waters that fall into the Licking from those which

fall into Eagle creek. The night was dark and the horizon overcast

with clouds and threatening rain. We endeavored to pursue a solitary

track thro an immense wood, but for want of sufficient light we some-

times wandered out of the way. After traveling about 12 miles thro

this dark wilderness we fortunately reached a house, which we were

glad to see. No beds being to be had here, we spread our blankets

on the floor and slept as comfortable as if we had been on beds of

down.

Sun. 15th. The lowering clouds which threatened us last evening

now discharge their watery contents on the earth. But we rose early

and pursued our journey thro the descending storm. We now over-

took a number of officers who had been to Lexington and were now

on their way to rejoin the army. In company with these we pursued

our journey. About 12 we baited at Read's, rested about 1 hour here

and again set forward, and thro heavy rain and sloppy roads arrived

on the bank of the Ohio about sunset.

REFLECTIONS ON CROSSING THE OHIO INTO A LAND OF FREEDOM-

CINCINNATI.

We are now in full view of the beautiful and flourishing town of

Cincinnati, most delightfully situated on the bank of "the most beauti-

ful river on earth." This large and populous town has risen almost

instantaneously from nothing, it being (as I was told) only 4 years

since it was all in woods. But such is the happy effects of that govern-

ment in which every trace of vassalage is rooted out and destroyed. To

a real republican, as I am, how grateful, how pleasing the sight which I

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         377

now behold. To a man weary of slavery and the consequent evils at-

tending it what pleasing reflections must arise.

The goodly land I see,

With peace and plenty blest,

A land of sacred liberty

And joyous rest.

But this distant sight is not enough for me. My feelings I expect are

something like those of Moses, when he uttered that passionate prayer

recorded in Deuteronomy 3:25, "I pray thee let me go over and see

the good land that is beyond Jordan, that goodly mountain and Lebanon."

With a pleasing hope of this desire being granted, we left the Kentucky

shore and in about 5 minutes landed on "The Territory Northwest of

Ohio."  On arriving on shore I could but thank God, who had pre-

served me thro many dangers, and brought me at length to see a land

where liberty prevails, and where human blood is not shed like water

by the hand of the merciless and unfeeling tyrant. Here are no objects

of despair, deprived of liberty and worn down with continual toil. We

seem to be gotten out of hearing of the cries of the tortured and the

mournful voice of woe. We hear no threats of the inhuman driver,

nor lashes of the loud resounding whip. We see no backs furrowed

with whipping, nor cheeks moistened with the tears of sorrow. We

see no husbands and wives torn from each others arms, by worse than

savage cruelty. We hear no fathers and mothers bewailing the miser-

able fate of their hapless offspring, torn from their embraces and carried

into perpetual slavery. Even the loud and bitter cry of parents and

children torn asunder under such circumstances as these, reach not

the ears of the highly favored inhabitants of this thrice happy land

But on the other hand, here the honest and industrious farmer culti-

vates his farm with his own hands, and eats the bread of cheerfulness,

and rests contented on his pillow at night. The aged mother instructs

her daughters the useful and pleasing accomplishments of the distaff

and the needle, with all things else that is necessary to constitute them

provident mother sand good housewives. The young man (instead of

a cowskin or some other instrument of torture) takes hold of an ax,

or follows the plough. The ruddy damsel thinks it no disgrace to wash

her clothes, milk her cows, or dress the food for the family. In a

word, it is no disgrace here to engage in any of the honest occupations

of life, and the consequence is, trade and manufactures increase, the

people live free from want, free from perplexity, free from the guilt

that results from the practice of keeping slaves. Thus they live happy

and their end is peace.

378         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

HIS FIRST SERMON IN THE NORTHWEST TERRITORY--FORT HAMILTON-

DOWN THE GREAT MIAMI.

Mon. 16th. We left Cincinnati about 9 o'clock pursuing our journey

toward Fort Hamilton; after traveling about 7 miles we met with a

remarkable friendly man of the name of Talbert. He over persuaded

us to stay with him till the next morning, to which we at length con-

sented. His kind and amiable wife set to and baked a quantity of

biscuit for us to take with us on our journey. In the meantime Mr.

Talbert sent and collected a number of his neighbors to whom I

preached the glad tidings of salvation from Luke 2:10. The attentive

hearers behaved with seriousness and I humbly hope this word will

not be in vain. Mr. Talbert informed us that his abhorence of slavery

led him to take sanctuary in this country at a very early period. He

appears to be a man that fears God and treated us with uncommon

kindness, for which may the Lord reward him.

Tues. 17th. After taking breakfast with these kind and friendly

people we committed each other to God and departed. In our way to

Fort Hamilton we were shown the spot where last May 12 mo. 8

men who were conducting provisions &c to the army were butchered

by the Indians. The Indians concealed themselves behind some high

weeds and pawpaw bushes on both sides of the road; the first fire

they killed 7 men. A resolute young horseman drew his sword, rushed

on an Indian and instantly killed him. He had but just time to execute

this when he was overpowered and killed. The bodies of the dead were

laid together in a heap and covered with a pile of logs. I saw a num-

ber of their bones, particularly a skull which had been mangled in a

most frightful manner with the Indian tomahawk. A young man whom

we saw at the place informed us that he himself was one of the un-

fortunate party and from him I received the above account.

About 4 o'clock we reached Hamilton. This fortification stands on

the eastern bank of the Miami river about 30 miles from Cincinnati

and nearly as far from the North Bend. The fort is built of large logs

with port holes to shoot thro. This is partly surrounded with an outer

wall of considerable extent; this wall is composed of the bodies of trees

of about 9 or 10 inches in diameter, cut off about 10 or 12 feet long,

set endways in the ground, and sharpened at the top. It was my in-

tention to have proceeded up this river as far as the mouth of Mad

river, but not being very fond of lying in the woods we here terminated

our travels northwestwardly and returned towards the Ohio, pursuing

our course down the Miami river, which at this place is about 120

yards wide and affords a navigation to within a few miles of naviga-

tion in a river of the lakes. We proceeded down the river about 5

miles and lodged with an Irish family adjoining the river. Here we got

plenty of fish which are taken in great abundance in this river.

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.         379

Wed. 18th. We set out early and traveled to and fro thro the wild

woods. A body of low grounds which we came thro last evening, for

beauty and fertility exceeding any that I had ever seen. I had therefore

a wish to see the lands on the hights; for this purpose we ascended the

highest hills we could find and to my great astonishment found the lands

here in no respect inferior to the low grounds. The growth being mostly

walnut was amazing large; buckeye, sugartree and white ash abounded

here also. Scarcely any undergrowth but pawpaw was to be seen. The

earth we found light and green as a carpet; wild rye and clover was here

in abundance. Game we found in great plenty. Indeed it seems to

abound with beasts, fish and fowl in the greatest abundance. After rid-

ing several miles thro these rich but uninhabited lands, we returned to

the river and pursued our course.

THE MOUNDS- AN OLD FORTIFICATION.

About 11 o'clock we came to Dunlap's Station; here the river makes

a large bend in the form of a horseshoe and encircles a beautiful, fertile

flat of considerable extent. I have often observed while traveling thro

this country a number of round hillocks, raised from 15 feet high and

under and from 50 to an hundred yards round them. It seems evident

that these places are not natural, but are the work of men. The only

question seems to be, what were they made for? Some have supposed

they were once plans of defense; but the most probable opinion is, that

they are burying places of the former inhabitants of this country. On

digging into these, I am informed, great quantities of bones are found

lying in a confused, promiscuous manner. Some authors inform us that

once in ten years the Indians collect the bones of their dead, and bring

them all to one place and bury them. Thus they proceed putting one

layer over another till they get them to the height above mentioned.

An object however of a different kind now presents itself to our

view. In the bend, or horse shoe above mentioned, is a neck of land

about 4 or 500 yards wide. Across this neck of land lies an old wall

joining the river at each end and enclosing I suppose about 100 acres of

land. This wall is composed of earth dug from the outside, where a

ditch of some depth is still discernable. The wall as present is so mould-

ered down that a man could easily ride over it. It is however, about 10

feet as near as I can judge in perpendicular height and gives growth to

a number of large trees. In one place I observe a breach in the wall

about 60 feet wide where I suppose the gate formerly stood, thro which

the people passed in and out of this stronghold. Compared with this

what feeble and insignificant works are those of Fort Hamilton, or Fort

Washington. They are no more in comparison to it than a rail fence is

to a brick wall.

We travelled down the Miami river from this old fortification, pur-

suing our course to the Ohio, our only guide being the river, for path

380         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

we had none. I have however reason to believe, that there had in for-

mer ages been a road leading along the very course we were going. My

reasons for thinking so, were these: I observe in a number of places, the

river hill is pretty steep and comes quite down to the water. In such

places as these, I observed a level place on the hillside, from 30 to 60 feet

wide appearing as if the hill had been cut down and the earth removed

to the lower side. This appearance continues till we came within a half

mile of the Ohio, where I thought I could discover the traces of an old

town. It is probable that the appearance alluded to, was once a high

road, leading from the town of the Miami, to this other on the Ohio.

But a vast length of time must have elapsed since these surprising works

were performed. The trees on the wall in the town and on the high-

way (if such they were in reality) are as big as they are in other places.

About 4 o'clock we arrived at Judge Simms', who has the disposal

of this rich and beautiful country. I hoped to have seen the judge and

to have some conversation with him respecting the land here, but neither

him nor his deputy being home I was unhappily disappointed.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE TERRITORY NORTHWEST OF THE OHIO

Having now finished my tour thro the territory northwest of the

Ohio, it may not be amiss to speak in general terms of the country thro

which I have passed. From Cincinnati we found the lands near the river

broken, not very rich, a little sand and some small pebble stones. 5 or

6 miles from the river, the lands were level, clear of stone, soil rich,

water good and clear and serene air. As we advanced further the lands

continued level, but were not as well watered as they were a little back.

Within about 9 or 10 miles of Hamilton, the lands I think are the richest

I ever saw. The growth is mostly walnut, sugartree, &c, tied together

by clusters of grapevines, which in this country grow amazingly large.

From this to Hamilton is the most beautiful level that ever my eyes be-

held; the soil is rich, free from swampy or marshy ground and the

growth mostly hickory.

Near Hamilton we saw several pararas, as they are called. They

are large tracts of fine, rich land, without trees and producing as fine

grass as the best meadows. From Hamilton down the Miami river to

the Ohio, the lands exceed description. Indeed this country of all others

that I ever saw, seems best calculated for earthly happiness. If you have

a desire to raise great quantities of corn, wheat or other grain, here is

perhaps the best soil in the world, inviting your industry. If you prefer

the raising of cattle or feeding large flocks of sheep, here the beautiful

and green parara excites your wonder and claims your attention. If

wearied with toil, you seek the bank of the river, as a place of rest, here

the fishes sporting in the limpid stream invite you to cast in your hook,

and draw forth nourishment for yourself and your family. The most

excellent fowl perch in the trees and flutter in the waters, while these

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.          381

immense woods produce innumerable quantities of the most excellent

venison. Amidst this rich, this pleasing variety, he must be undeserving

the name of man, who will want the common comforts of life. Glad

should I have been to have had a little more time to have pleased my

eyes with a view of this delightful country. But circumstances call me

hence. I must now take off mine eyes and turn them another way and

for the present bid adieu to this delightful land.

LIBERTY AND SLAVERY.

I can not however on this occasion conceal the warm emotions of my

heart. Long have I wished to see a land, sacred to liberty, nor stained

with the crimson dye of blood. A land where slavery, the present dis-

grace and the future scourge of America, should not be permitted to

come. This ardent wish I at length see accomplished and in this infant

country behold the features of true felicity and greatness. Here I see

genuine liberty and national happiness growing up together, on the firm

foundation and under the guardian protection of constitutional authority.

Yes, I anticipate O land, the rising glory of thy unequalled fame.

Thy forests, now wild and uncultivated, soon shall the hand of industry

sow with golden grain. Thy unequalled soil, cultivated by the fostering

hands of freemen shall e'er long display its beauties and yield an increase

worthy a land of liberty. Thy stately trees, habituated for ages to lie

and rot shall e'er long raise the lofty dome and be fashioned into curious

workmanship, by the hand of the ingenious artist. Thy large and noble

rivers which silently flow in gentle currents, shall e'er long waft thy rich

products to distant markets in foreign climes; and thou, beautiful Ohio

shalt stand an impenetrable barrier, to guard this sacred land. And tho

the tears of the oppressed on thy southeastern border, may help increase

thy crystal tide, yet the galling yoke, should it attempt to cross thy cur-

rent, shall sink beneath thy wave and be buried in thy bosom. The voice

of the oppressor may spread terror and dismay thro the eastern and

southern states but farther than thy delightful banks, it cannot, it dare

not, it shall not be heard. Yes in thee, O thrice happy land, shall be

fullfilled an ancient prophecy. "The wilderness and the solitary place

shall be glad and the desert shall rejoice and blossom as the rose. The

glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it, the excellency of Carmel and

Sharon; for in the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in

the desert. There the weary prisoners shall rest together and hear not

the voice of the oppressor." (Isa. 35. Job 3.). I must now leave this fair

land of happiness with offering to heaven this humble request: May the

foot of pride never come against thee, nor human blood stain thy lovely

plains. May the scourge of war, never desolate thee, or cruel tyrants

raise their banners here. May thy aged never feel the loss of liberty,

nor the yoke of slavery rest on the necks of thy children. May thy gates

remain open to the oppressed of all nations and may those that flock

382         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

thither, be the excellent ones of the earth; and if the still continued op-

pressions of enlightened Virginia, should at length bring down the just

judgments of an incensed Deity, may it be, when I or those that pertain

unto me have found an asylum in thy peaceful borders.

THE OHIO NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT MIAMI.

We crossed the Ohio at the North Bend and reached the Kentucky

shore about sunset. The Ohio here (as in all other places that I ever

saw it, is gentle, smooth and clear; and as far as we were informed about

three quarters of a mile over. We rode down it, after crossing it, about

9 miles to Thomas Moseley's where we lodged.

Thurs. 19th. When we arose in the morning we found ourselves on

one of the most beautiful and agreeable situations, that I have seen south

of the Ohio. This noble and delightful river rolls its beautiful current,

under Mr. Moseley's windows a full prospect of which for several miles

each way presents itself to view. The point where the Miami mingles

its waters with those of the Ohio, is also easily seen, being about 3 miles

up the river. Boats passing and repassing continually render the pros-

pect still more pleasing and delightful. The bank of the river here, is at

least 50 feet high, from the top of which a beautiful level plain extends

itself, containing not less than 200 acres of very rich land. Nature seems

to have formed this for a town for which it is well calculated in every

respect, except that it lacks good water. The river affords a never end-

ing supply but the banks are of such a vast height, and withal so very

steep, that renders it extremely difficult to get water from thence.

It is however an undoubted fact notwithstanding these difficulties,

that a town of considerable note, actually once stood on this very

spot. What nature denied, art then supplied. These high banks have

avenues cut extending from the water about 100 yards, by which means

the ascent is made gradual and the water thereby easily brought from

the river. There are about 10 of these cuts in the bank, being about 100

feet apart. On the level above mentioned, I observed a number of places

appearing like old cellars some of which were very large and in a square

shape. I suppose there were nearly fifty of these. In another place a

mount of considerable height still remains. Mr. Moseley informed me

that human bones were found here, buried deep in the earth, as is the

custom with us. These cellars, these cuts in the river bank, these bones

found deep in the earth, the old highway over the river and the wall on

the Miami, are sufficient to warrant a belief, that a civilized people, once

inhabited this country; for nothing of the kind is practiced among the

savages at this day. But who they were, how brought here, or whither

gone, are matters which we must be content to remain ignorant of. We

may form conjectures, but they may be wrong. I shall therefore confess

my ignorance and be silent.

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.          383

BIG BONE LICK - FRANKFORT.

Fri. 20th. We set out after early breakfast, taking in our way the

Big Bone Lick, where we arrived about 1 o'clock. This is one of the

principal salt licks in Kentucky, but being in a frontier part is not worked

at present. The salt water issues forth out of a boiling spring with a

very bold stream and emits a strong smell of sulphur and has a bluish

cast. It also dyes the earth and stones over which it passes of the same

colors and leaves a white scum where it overflows. But the most re-

markable thing we saw here, were the big bones, which gave name to the

Lick. These we saw lying round about the spring in abundance and

were truly of a most enormous size. A person living at the place in-

formed me that the bones are mostly under ground and are got by dig-

ging. It is probable that they are kept from putrefaction by the strength

of the salt water, and by that means have been kept entire from time im-

memorial. Deer about the lick are very plenty, and a few buffalo yet

remain. We left this place about 2 and reached Little's about 9, after

traveling about 43 miles.

Sat. 21st. We started early and reached Col. Collins' about sunset.

Sun. 22nd. Having some business at the metropolis, I shaped my

course for Frankfort and lodged in the evening with a Mr. Major about

3 miles out of town

Mon. 23d. Mr. Bryant (with whom I lodged) and myself set out for

Frankfort, where we arrived about 9 o'clock. We took breakfast at Mr.

Bryant's lodgings and repaired to the capitol, where the assembly of Ken-

tucky are now in session. While the members were collecting, Mr. Bryant

took me up the steps into the steeple from whence I had a most beauti-

ful view of the whole city.

Frankfort, the metropolis of Kentucky, is situate in a deep valley

in a bend of the Kentucky, and is washed by that river on the south and

west. On the north rises a high hill, commanding an extensive prospect.

At the east end of the town, the hill is low and admits a good road

in to the city, which in fact is the only way that there can be a good road

got to it. A very few good buildings have lately been erected in this

new city. But the state house or capitol is most worthy of notice. It

is an elegant stone building three stories high, a steeple on the top and

a portico on each side. The work is well executed and it makes a noble

appearance. I left Frankfort after dinner and about an hour in the night

reached Josiah Woodridge's, with whom I spent this evening.

Tues. 24th. I visited several old acquaintances, taking my leave of

them all, as I expect to see them no more before I leave the country.

I came in the evening and lodged with my kind friend John Moss.

Wed. 25th. I left Mr. Moss' after breakfast, called at Mr. Watkins'

and at Mr. Lockett's and arrived at my brother's a little after dark.

Thurs. 26th. Attended, with my brother, a funeral in the neighbor-

hood and returned in the evening.

384        Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

Fri. 27th. My brother and his wife and myself visited Capt. Hollo-

way and returned in the evening.

Sat. 28th. Continued at my brother's.

HEARS A NEGRO PREACH -A HUNT.

Sun. 29th. Attended a funeral where I heard a black man preach,

to the wonder and astonishment of a number of whites. I was happy

to find that the prejudices against the poor blacks are less powerful in

this country than in Virginia. I gave an exhortation after the black

man concluded, and my brother, terminated the meeting with an exhorta-

tion at the grave. The greatest decency and good behavior was discov-

erable through the whole solemnity. 0! when will the time come when

"Ethiopia shall stretch forth her hand" and these poor outcasts of men be

favored with all the privileges of men and of Christians? I spent the

evening agreeably with Mr. Lockett and his family.

Mon. 30th. Mr. Lockett and my brother, this afternoon took a small

hunt, in which I accompanied them. They killed two opossums, 2 tur-

keys, 3 pheasants, three pigeons and 4 partridges. If game is thus

plenty where the people are so thick, what must we think of the fron-

tier?

Tues. Dec. 1. Went in company with my brother to Woodford

court. Here I met with Mr. Charles Bailey, with whom I made an agree-

ment to start for Virginia on Friday next. Just as we were about to

leave the court house, came on a violent storm of thunder, wind and

rain, through which we returned to my brother's.

Wed 2d. and Thurs. 3d. I spent in getting my horse shod and

fixing to start for home.

HOMEWARD JOURNEY THROUGH CUMBERLAND GAP.

Fri. 4th. I took leave of my brother's family, himself and sister

Frances accompanying me some distance. At Mr. Lockett's, I met with

Mr. Bailey and Thos. Porter and we set out from thence about 11

o'clock and proceeded for the Crab Orchard. My brother and me now

took an affectionate leave of each other and parted. We got to Wm.

Bryant's about 7 at night.

Sat. 5th. We pursued our journey to the Crab Orchard where we

arrived a little after dark.

Sun. 6th. We left Crab Orchard about break of day; the weather

intensely cold and ground frozen rendered it bad traveling. We baited

at Lankford's and pushed on again. About 10 o'clock we reached Rock

Castle river, in crossing of which I met a remarkable deliverance. My

horse attempting to mount a steep bank, fell backward into the river,

but instantly rising again, made a second attempt and fell the second

time and had well nigh thrown me against a large rock. He rose in an

instant and mounting the bank, carried me out safe without the least

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.        385

hurt. It is very remarkable that in the midst of this hurry and confusion

I was not at all frightened, but felt my spirits calm and was enabled to

keep my seat in the saddle. Not an hair of our head shall fall to the

ground without the permission of our heavenly Father. We reached and

tarried at Logan's Station.

Mon. 7th. We started as soon as we could see, through rain and

mud, baited at Collins' Station and reached Middleton's.

Tues. 8th. Started as soon as it was light. The falling snow soon

covered us with a white mantle. The roads are dreadful bad and our

horses lame. But our situation is preferable to some others. Poor

women and children! I feel much for you, who are wading through the

mud, up to your horses' bellies, while the snow from above benumbs your

tender limbs. We baited at the station at Cumberland river and reached

Davis' in the evening at the foot of Cumberland mountain.

Wed. 9th. We started just as the sun began to gild the tops of the

high mountains. We ascended Cumberland mountain, from the top of

which the bright luminary of day appeared to our view in all his rising

glory; the mists dispersed and the floating clouds hasted away at his

appearing. This is the famous Cumberland Gap, where the numbers have

felt the butchering tomahawk. Here we re-enter the state of Virginia,

after an absence of 50 days, during which time I have traveled to and

fro, through these western regions about 1,000 miles. Only 4 days I have

rested from traveling, the rest I have spent in riding through this country

in various directions, having passed through the counties of Mason, Bour-

bon, Fayette, Woodford, Mercer, Lincoln, Madison, Scott, Franklin and

Hardin. Consequently my opportunities of seeing the country have been

pretty considerable but as so many have given a description of this

country, I shall be silent on that head. We traveled a few miles in Vir-

ginia and came to the territory southwest of Ohio. We came in the

evening to Capt. Chissum's with whom I spent the evening.

Thurs. 10th. After breakfast, I set off, passed the high Clinch

mountains, ferried the river and in the evening reached Major Orr's

where we lodged.

Fri. 11th. Started early and reached Long's near Ross' Iron Works.

Sat. 12th. My horse being taken unwell, proves a great affliction

to me. I am near 400 miles from home, in a strange country and among

a strange people. But I am conscious that my Almighty Protector is

near and he knows what is best for me. I will therefore cheerfully

commit the disposal of all to Him. We reached and took up at a widow

Anderson's. Here we are again in Virginia having traversed the south-

ern territory about 70 or 80 miles.

Sun. 13th. We traveled (my horse being better) and reached Craig's

one mile below Washington Court House.

Mon. 14th. After a rainy night we arose with the light and prepared

for our journey, but to our great mortification found it snowing. But

what was worse than all, my horse was stiff foundered. However my

Vol. XVI.-25.

386         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

anxious desire to see my family surmounted these difficulties. We set

off, traveled slow and reached Thompson's, 12 miles below the head of

Holstein.

Tues. 15th. We pursued our journey through piercing winds and

over the mountains covered with snow and reached Stropher's in the

evening.

Wed. 16th. Started early and reached Dublin in the evening.

Thurs. 17th. We started as soon as it was light, crossed New river

in the morning and the Alleghania mountain about 2 in the afternoon.

Here we salute the eastern waters. We rode down Roanoke some dis-

tance and saw the surprising effects of the freshet last fall. So violent

was the force of the waters, that it cut a new channel for the river and

filled up the old, as we were informed, drowned a number of cattle and

did much other damage to the beautiful farms on the river.

Fri. 18th. We crossed the Blue Ridge and reached Capt. Buford's.

Sat. 19th. After getting breakfast, we pursued our journey and

reached Mr. Chastain's in the evening in Bedford.

Sun. 20th. Our horses find difficult traveling this morning by the

clogging of the snow, which fell last night, about 3 inches deep. We

reached Mr. Stovall's.

Mon. 21st. We reached Mr. Gatch's.

Tues. 22d. Pursued my journey and reached Mr. Francis Harris'.

Wed. 23d. About 9 o'clock had the pleasing satisfaction of meet-

ing my family and finding them in health. For the mercies of the Lord,

bestowed them on me and them, may his name have endless praise.

Amen.

III.

JOURNEY INTO THE NORTHWEST TERRITORY-1797.

Near two years have passed since a glimpse of the Northwestern

Territory first saluted my wondering eyes. The fertility of its soil and

the liberality of its government, convinced me of its real worth and

immense value. A desire to make myself more fully acquainted with

that country, and a wish to provide a place to carry my family to,

together with a design to survey some lands in the state of Kentucky,

determined me to leave my family and domestic concerns for a time

in order to accomplish the above purposes. I took leave of my family

and friends, August 31st, 1797 and set my face westwardly.

About 12 I reached my brother George Smith's. Accompanied by

my brother and Sister Sublett we pursued our journey.     At Pow-

hatan Court House we were joined by Wm. Sowall and James

About sunset we reached the house of Mr. Robert Biscoe. Here we

found a number of people awaiting our arrival, to whom I preached

from 2 Peter 3:14. Bro. George was poorly.

Fri. Sept. 1st. We took early breakfast and started. The weather

Tours Into Kentucky and the Northwest Territory.        387

was amazing hot and our horses seemed scarcely able to proceed. We

however reached Wm. Maxey's about 1 o'clock, took dinner and then

rode on to brother Gatch's. Here also we found a large company wait-

ing for preaching. Bro. George being still poorly, I again attempted to

preach from Rev. 22:17. Bro. George exhorted a little after I had done,

and Bro. Gatch spoke a few words after him. A spirit of engagedness

came upon the people; some shouted amain, while others were weeping

bitterly and crying for mercy. It was just 12 o'clock when we lay down

to take a little repose.

Sat. 2d. The weather being so exceeding and uncommon warm, our

company by mutual consent agreed to lie by until the next morning.

Sun. 3d. Took leave of our affectionate friends and started. Called

and took dinner at Flood's Tavern, then rode on to Hunter's. My Bro.

and myself rode on about 2 miles further to Mrs. Stovall's.

Mon. 4th. About sunrise our company assembled at the place ap-

pointed and having gotten from all our acquaintances, etc., propose pur-

suing our journey. We are now five in number, Mr. Edward Watkins

having joined us. We took breakfast at De priests, passed New London,

a little after 12, dined at Lee's and then rode on to Liberty or Bedford

Court House, and took up at Ota Tavern.

Tues. 5th. We rose with the day and started, breakfasted at Bu-

ford's, rested two or three hours and then set out forward; crossed

the Blue Ridge about 2 o'clock, got dinner with a Dutchman and lodged

at McLannahan's.

Wed. 6th. I was considerably indisposed by a severe cold. We

started, breakfasted at Dunlap's, crossed the Allegenia mountain, rode

through a poor country, gave 5 s. per bushel for oats to feed our horses

and rode on to Stobaugh's.

Thurs. 7th. Having sweated freely the last evening I feel much

better.  About sunrise we started, breakfasted at Ad. Hacent's and

reached Wythe Court House or the town of Evansham in the evening

and took up at Johnston's Tavern.

Fri. 8th. Made an early start, breakfasted at Cathascries, baited at

Crow's (head of Holstein). From thence we traveled till late in the

night before we could get anything for ourselves or horses. About 9

we reached the sign of the Blue Ball and took up with Meek's.

Sat. 9th. Breakfasted at Greenway's, passed Abingdon about 12,

baited at Col. Purton's, dined at Boulton's and took up at Hickman's

on the borders of Tennessee.

Sun. 10th. We entered Tennessee, baited at Goddard's, dined at

Yancey's and passed on to Klyne's.

Mon. 11.   Breakfasted at Hawkins Court House (at Rogers'

Tavern) and reached Oris' in the evening.

Tues. 12th. We set out early and presently began to climb the

steep, rugged and rocky mountain of Clinch. Arriving near the top, we

found ourselves in a surrounding cloud, the contents of which showered

388         Ohio Arch. and Hist. Society Publications.

plentifully upon us. We pursued our course, crossed Clinch mountain,

Copper Ridge, Clinch river and reached the Big Spring about 11 o'clock.

Here we got breakfast with Mr. E. Chisme, thence crossed Walkins'

Ridge, Powell's river and in the evening reached Cumberland Gap, entered

the state of Kentucky and took up at Davis'.

Wed. 13th. After leaving our lodgings, about 3 hour's ride brought

us to Cumberland river. Here we were stopped by the turnpike men,

who demanded fees of 1 s. per man for admittance thro the turnpike

gate. We paid the money and went on intending to get breakfast at

the Ford, but to our great disappointment could get nothing but a little

milk and some mush made of pounded meal and a little green corn.

We took our repast and set forward and crossed the river, which is

about 100 yards wide. But the drought has been such that I walked

quite across the river and did not wet the soles of my feet. We baited

at Middleton's and reached Ballenger's in the evening, but the station

was so crowded that we preferred lying in the woods.

Thurs. 14th. Started about an hour before day, breakfasted at Thomp-

son's and reached Ch. Smith's in the evening.

Fri. 15th. Our company now separated. My brother and myself

take the right hand road at Lankford's and the others the left. We

reached the settlement of Kentucky about 9 o'clock, breakfasted and

rode thro the fertile lands of Kentucky, to Mr. John Bryant's. It was

delightful to see the fine fields of corn, which everywhere presented

themselves to our view. What a surprizing difference there is between

the produce of these lands and those of the back part of Virginia. The

people are kind and hospitable to strangers and plenty is the blessing

they enjoy.

Sat. 16th. Accompanied by Mr. Bryant, my brother and myself